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Old 03-26-2014, 09:57 AM   #15
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Wow, we painted a e-jag back in the 80's. Primrose yellow IIRC.

So, what kind of paint do you recommend? Cross-linked acrylic emanel? Base-coat clear-coat? I've always liked Duponts chroma line. In fact, have always used dupont paints, although have shot house of color, colorite, sherwin williams, and PPG.

How do you feel about spraying clear on aging gelcoat on the RV's? My left sidewall sits in the sun, now 10 years old, and getting harder and harder to buff out. Was thinking about sanding it down next time and shoot it with clear. Or do a custom re-paint like OP has done. And yeah, I've painted in my driveway. LOL. You just have to wet sand and buff to get the bugs and dust out.
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:12 AM   #16
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Duont laquer

Quote:
Originally Posted by CJBROWN View Post
Wow, we painted a e-jag back in the 80's. Primrose yellow IIRC.

So, what kind of paint do you recommend? Cross-linked acrylic emanel? Base-coat clear-coat? I've always liked Duponts chroma line. In fact, have always used dupont paints, although have shot house of color, colorite, sherwin williams, and PPG.

How do you feel about spraying clear on aging gelcoat on the RV's? My left sidewall sits in the sun, now 10 years old, and getting harder and harder to buff out. Was thinking about sanding it down next time and shoot it with clear. Or do a custom re-paint like OP has done. And yeah, I've painted in my driveway. LOL. You just have to wet sand and buff to get the bugs and dust out.

Did that yellow jag look like this one?? Dupont Lacquer with five coats clear. took the entire bonnet off in pieces to fix what was a crappy plastic filler cover up of a visit to a mail box by the previous owner. had to shrink the metal dent with heat and fill with lead.



as for running clear over an old finish, I opted not too. went instead to using a clear floor finish after getting the chalk off. there are thread on this elsewhere but used a micro fiber applicator with acrylic floor finish. six coats and the MH look bright and shines good. real cheap way to go. started with the roof to try and stop the black streaks. it looked so good and worked so well I went for the total look. personally, I am very pleased with this finish on my old 99 winny.
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Old 03-27-2014, 08:57 AM   #17
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Yep. Just like that!!
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Old 03-27-2014, 09:38 AM   #18
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^^This.

I have heard some recent commentary on gelcoat as well. There are a LOT of whining owners of high-end coaches with crazing finish - especially the dark colors.

I have some experience in the marine enviro and have never heard of painting a fiberglass hull - only epoxy or gelcoat.

I was thinking of clear-coating my sun-facing sidewall, but I think I would do it with clear gelcoat and apply new cast vinyl trim. We do a lot of bus-wrap type jobs and I can get graphics and lettering printed out and laser cut for way less than factory graphics.

One of the trim stripes I painted with acrylic enamel a year ago is starting to craze (crack) - it's dark blue.
Actually on many of the smaller craft, especially in the go fast crowd, its all automotive paint. All of the offshore race boats are painted.
When I had my business going, we used Alexseal and Awlcraft 2000 for anything that was constantly exposed to the marine environment. Always painted over gelcoat on hulls and decks too. But all the fancy paint jobs were PPG with multiple layers of clear coat, some over gelcoat, some over other primers etc.
For a 15yr old rig that needed a makeover, I think it looks great. On our 5th wheel that is full body paint I found 2 runs under the clear. So even a $100k coach can have oops.
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:11 AM   #19
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Touch-up paint

Keeping sample of paint in small container was recommended. Is this still mixed with reducer and hardener? If so, how does it not get hard in container? I have painted automotive paint on a few vehicles but never tried to store any touch-up. Thanks

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Old 03-28-2014, 07:44 PM   #20
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Keeping sample of paint in small container was recommended. Is this still mixed with reducer and hardener? If so, how does it not get hard in container? I have painted automotive paint on a few vehicles but never tried to store any touch-up. Thanks

ronspradley

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It is still mixed with reducer and hardener. The trick to saving some for later it to get what you want to save out of the can before you add the hardener.
Really, you should never mix reducer and hardener in the virgin paint can directly. It should all be done in a mixing cup.
I have painted a few cars without using hardener at all, but it does add considerable curing time.
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Old 03-30-2014, 04:51 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by rollondown View Post
Actually on many of the smaller craft, especially in the go fast crowd, its all automotive paint. All of the offshore race boats are painted.
When I had my business going, we used Alexseal and Awlcraft 2000 for anything that was constantly exposed to the marine environment. Always painted over gelcoat on hulls and decks too. But all the fancy paint jobs were PPG with multiple layers of clear coat, some over gelcoat, some over other primers etc.
For a 15yr old rig that needed a makeover, I think it looks great. On our 5th wheel that is full body paint I found 2 runs under the clear. So even a $100k coach can have oops.

What looks great? You lost me there.
Just clearcoat or repaint?
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Old 06-12-2014, 11:13 AM   #22
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Well, I finally got some time to strip and repaint our latest rig, a 1994 Holiday Rambler Endeavor diesel. The sides and top are aluminum and front and rear caps are fiberglass which is easier to remove vinyl striping from. The urethane paint, reducer and hardener cost right at $1000. It was all done outdoors on a desert lot. I had the help of two friends and my wife for 4 days. Is it a Perfect paint job? Nope, it's only my second ever use of a paint gun, the first being the other motorhome I painted which started this thread. But it's not bad and much more enjoyable to drive around a rig whose skin is safely sealed away from the Southwest sun by layers of new paint, plus one that looks a lot better and much newer. Many non RV owners ask if it's a new motorhome. I'll post photos of the whole process.
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Old 06-13-2014, 07:59 AM   #23
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So will you do mine in the original colors if I come out this winter?, It looks so good after a wax but 32 years of weather has its problem area's
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Old 06-13-2014, 09:07 AM   #24
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Paint

I painted mine myself about 2 years ago. There are pictures (#209) in "what did you do to your old RV today" in vintage rvs.
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Old 06-13-2014, 09:31 AM   #25
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Eight years ago my wife and I restored a 1992 Georgie Boy Cruise Master and repainted it. Our friends honestly thought we had bought a new motorhome. We are doing it again now on a 1994 Holiday Rambler Endeavor LE diesel which is a real quality rig.

Here's how you can repaint your rig to a "like new" style and condition.
.
Excellent write-up, and in spite of Naysayers, it is about that easy to paint a vehicle, boat. RV...
It is not rocket science, it is just paint...
The paint is the simplest, easiest part of the job... the prep is the real work.
I painted several cars, many years ago with Wagner airless sprayers, they came out fine, I did good prep, and one I even used Rustoleum red paint from Target, it looked great. I later graduated to using a compressor, and spray gun, and the results were about the same, it is all in the prep work. and then getting the paint thinned right before spraying.
People tend to over analyze, complicate, and make things harder than they really are, when the toughest part of most jobs is simply starting it.
Keep it simple, and it will be simple.
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Old 07-21-2014, 06:45 PM   #26
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As I said in my previous post back in March this year, I have taken on painting the "new" 1994 HR Endeavor LE diesel we recently bought. The entire project was performed in a 2-week time period. It began with removing the 20-year old vinyl striping that had become hard and brittle over years sitting in the Southwest sun. I hired a couple of church friends to help and we began with heat guns and scrapers, which took "forever." TIP: we eventually used an electric Wagner Paint Eater and stripe removal went very quickly. (See photo) The Paint Eater left scratches in the aluminum siding which were easily buffed out with an air sander. Once the stripes were removed, we then sanded the entire rig with 220 grit paper or finer. Then the taping began for each section that was to be painted a different color.

NOTE: Let me pause here to state that this was only my second auto painting that I have ever done, the first being my previous motorhome shown in the photos near the beginning of this thread. This type of project takes risk on your part. But if you trust that you can scrape, sand, tape, prime and spray on paint, then once you begin just keep going, don't ever loose faith and give up. It will look worse and worse the further you get towards the point of spraying on the paint. The 95% preparation work sets you up for a fantastic finished paint job. Okay, with that said, let's continue...

Paint was purchased from a shop where the folks really know what you need and how to mix it. (My shop is Space Age Auto Paint in Mesa, Arizona.) All employees there are girls, but they really know the auto paint biz. I chose 4 colors from their samples to get the effect I was looking for in the previous photo I found of a paint scheme I wanted to use as a guide (See photo in my March post above). They also figured out what reducer and hardener each paint required and the mixing ratio I needed to use. I bought a couple of $14 paint sprayers from Harbor Freight that attach to my paint compressor. Mixed a batch at a time for the sprayer's cup and started shooting. Keeping the paint wet (glossy) but dry enough not to run is the challenge. I started with the roof first, giving it a nice thick coat of paint to protect the aluminum, as the old paint had mostly oxidized away.
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Old 07-21-2014, 07:27 PM   #27
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As I said in my previous post back in March this year, I have taken on painting the "new" 1994 HR Endeavor LE diesel we recently bought. The entire project was performed in a 2-week time period. It began with removing the 20-year old vinyl striping that had become hard and brittle over years sitting in the Southwest sun. I hired a couple of church friends to help and we began with heat guns and scrapers, which took "forever." TIP: we eventually used an electric Wagner Paint Eater and stripe removal went very quickly. (See photo) The Paint Eater left scratches in the aluminum siding which were easily buffed out with an air sander. Once the stripes were removed, we then sanded the entire rig with 220 grit paper or finer. Then the taping began for each section that was to be painted a different color.

NOTE: Let me pause here to state that this was only my second auto painting that I have ever done, the first being my previous motorhome shown in the photos near the beginning of this thread. This type of project takes risk on your part. But if you trust that you can scrape, sand, tape, prime and spray on paint, then once you begin just keep going, don't ever loose faith and give up. It will look worse and worse the further you get towards the point of spraying on the paint. The 95% preparation work sets you up for a fantastic finished paint job. Okay, with that said, let's continue with the next phase, painting...
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Old 07-21-2014, 07:36 PM   #28
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The paint for this project got purchased from a shop where the folks really know what you need and how to mix it. My shop is Space Age Auto Paint in Mesa, Arizona where most employees are girls, who all really know their auto paint! I chose 4 colors from their books of samples to get the effect I was looking for. (Recall that in a previous entry I showed a photo I found online of a paint scheme to use as a guide - See that photo in my March post above). My helper also included the reducer and hardener each paint required and the mixing ratio that I needed to use. I used a couple of cheap paint sprayers from Harbor Freight that attached to my paint compressor.

When all was ready, I mixed a single batch at a time for the sprayer's cup and started shooting. Keeping the paint wet (glossy) but dry enough not to run is the constant challenge. We started by painting the roof first, giving it a nice thick coat of paint to protect the aluminum, as the old paint had mostly oxidized away. Then moved down the sides and covered all the areas that would remain white once the project wad complete. The next day we masked off the white and taped for the gold section. (Don't allow plastic dropcloths to touch day-old "dry" paint that hasn't fully cured, it will dull the finish.)
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