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Old 07-21-2014, 08:11 PM   #29
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As you can see in the last photo above, the two primary colors are now complete. Revisit that online photo I used in the March post as a general guide for this design. (I blew it up in a Word document and printed two copies, one flipped horizontally to give an idea of what the other side of the motorhome should look like.) The swooping curving stripes were simply laid out with tape.

But the layout of the design was assisted by making some general measurements of the height of parts of stripes, measured up from wheel wells, windows, etc. by making guesses from the original photo. At each measurement I put a little piece of tape to serve as guides of the approximate height the stripes were in the photo as we swooped tape along to form the stripes. We didn't try to copy the stripes in the photo, rather just adapted the general scheme according to taste and adjusting for differences in our vehicle with the one in the photo. Since the measurements were the same on both sides of the rig it also helped maintain a similar layout on both sides, although that wasn't crucial -- one cannot see both sides of the rig at the same time.

A big challenge is to get the taped curves curvy. When applying tape, short portions of will want to run straighter than others. Taking time to rework the tape into consistent curvatures is important.
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:28 PM   #30
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Okay, so when all the tape and masking finally comes off you'll see some imperfections, okay plenty of little things. But don't fret! Compare it to what you had before and appreciate the 98% better product you now have.

(Here are the before and after photos. It's not a perfect job by any means. But ask yourself, which would you want to drive around in? Most people assume it's a brand new coach!

You'll tend to have a little embarrassing spot or two, but nobody will ever notice. Why? People don't tend to stare at your motorhome, (they like to stare at their own). After lots of tiring work and some $$$ expended (like $1k for the paint), you step back and...there it is. It's your work of art, you did it, you can be proud of it, you can enjoy and appreciate that it's all shiny and sealed away from the sun and rain for the next 20 years.

I hope you have enjoyed hearing about my second paint project. And if you have the inkling to git it a try yourself, get your nerve up and see it through to the very end. You'll learn a lot and your rig will be much better for your efforts. -je
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Old 07-21-2014, 09:49 PM   #31
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looks great, what type of paint did you use?
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:13 PM   #32
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That is the best RV repaint job I've ever seen!
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:38 PM   #33
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Looks great! Did you use the same brand of paint for both the base and stripes?

How long before you taped over the new base coats? Did any of that lift when you took the tape off?
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:27 AM   #34
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That looks great JetFlyer. Bravo for attempting that outdoors. I painted cars as a teenager and I know just a little breeze or dust can mess you up. I owned the same HR diesel, 1995 version. Those decals started peeling in 3-4 years. Your paint job looks very nice. One of the nice things about my 95 HR diesel is that RV got about 10 mpg. Even pulling a 2500 lb toad!
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Old 07-22-2014, 09:23 AM   #35
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The paint type was "urethane" and the brand was "3rd Dimension." All 4 paints and colors (included the stripes) were selected from a single manufacturer's sample book, so that kept things simpler.

Yes, outdoor painting can be challenging at times, but I didn't find it much of a problem at all. Just one day when a few raindrops fell as I was spraying -- drilled into the wet paint and messed it up. But the next day I re-sanded that area and repainted with no problem.

I taped and shot one day, removed the tape and taped over the paint and shot the next section the following day. That was in 105 degree direct sunlight, so in cooler climates you might want to wait an extra day in between?

When removing tape there is a strong possibility of lifting paint. I find it best to pull the tape off at a 45 degree angle down away from the painted section. This helps break the paint line and not lift the new paint off. On the whole rig I could show you two little spots that lifted - one the size of your pinky nail, the other the size of half dollar. Both were probably not sanded (roughed up) enough before painting I would assume.

The paint gets hardener added to it. Once it cures it is hard and cannot be removed without sanding it off. So, treat overspray or spots that need removing with thinner within the first day, or they will be there for life.

The masking tape you use is very important. Automotive green and orange, etc. are good for the painted edge. Then to mask it off, other types of masking tape can then be taped onto the automotive tape with paper, etc..

We just drove the rig 2000 miles from Phoenix to Kings Canyon to San Francisco, Big Sur and back. I've discovered that this engine performs best at 1,700 RPM which approximates 58-62MPH. We averaged 12mpg overall with 14mpg on the flats.

Comparison: Here are the mileages we get from all of our vehicles:

2012 Honda CR-V: 55MPH=54.5mpg 60MPH=42mpg 75MPH=28mpg

2004 Sequoia 4X4: 55MPH=28mpg 65MPH=19mpg 75MPH=15mpg

1994 HR Diesel: 55MPH=14mpg 65MPH=11mpg 70MPH=10mpg

This comparison demonstrates how lower RPM combined with lower wind resistance makes a huge difference in MPG. The choice then becomes: "How fast can I afford to drive?"
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:49 AM   #36
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Was your paint a base coat/clear coat, or a single stage paint?

....and you taped over within a day? Wow, that's brave
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Old 07-22-2014, 08:08 PM   #37
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Looks very good, very creative as well.
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:33 AM   #38
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I used single stage paints (no clear coat). Sitting 365 days in the Arizona sun I find it best to have a durable single stage paint protecting the rig. While it would be nice to buff out imperfections, in this environment it is best not to open up the paint to extra oxidation. So single stage, no buffing out, just wash and wax to stay shiny for years in the sun.
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Old 07-23-2014, 11:00 AM   #39
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jeflyer,

Nice job indeed!!

I have a similar project going now as well... a new to us, 2004 Tiffin Allegro. It is in great shape except for the vinyl graphics after 10 years of baking in the Arizona sun. Most of the graphics and adhesive are off now. I plan to leave the white fiberglass sides alone, since they still look good, (just a bit dull) and just re-paint where the graphics were, since those areas are MUCH more shiny than the exposed fiberglass. Also, the lower, basement level is painted a gold/brown color, and still looks good.

I am working in my backyard, close to neighbors, so I am concerned about the paint fumes, but no other place to work. I may end up using "rattle can" auto touch up paint rather than a spray gun, since I don't have near as much area to paint vs. a complete coverage job.
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Old 07-24-2014, 07:58 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DudePa View Post
jeflyer,

I am working in my backyard, close to neighbors, so I am concerned about the paint fumes, but no other place to work. I may end up using "rattle can" auto touch up paint rather than a spray gun, since I don't have near as much area to paint vs. a complete coverage job.
Rattle cans can do the job if you get ones with better nozzles that mist paint instead of sending out numerous sizes of paint globules.

If you want to paint a custom color, or metallic, can you take your spray equipment and pancake compressor to a deserted parking lot or field and let the genset keep the compressor powered?
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Old 07-24-2014, 08:00 AM   #41
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We all have a ton of silicone sealer caulk around our motorhomes. How does somebody deal with silicone, since it doesn't hold paint?
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Old 07-24-2014, 08:09 AM   #42
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I see painted caulking in some spots on mine?

there is paintable silicone caulking, see here

the thing is since it's an older coach U don't know what you have, just try it.
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