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Old 07-24-2014, 09:00 AM   #43
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Can you post a close up pic of the striping edges?
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Old 07-24-2014, 09:24 AM   #44
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You are a real trooper! I can't imagine doing this type of work in the sun at 100+ temps. I'm surprised the paint didn't dry coming right out of the gun! When you painted the last one was it under similar conditions? I hope after all that work the paint doesn't fail.
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:08 AM   #45
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I used to buy an older car on occasion for my wife, then sand it, apply Bondo and mask it for paint, then take it to a paint shop and have them spray it. We were too poor to buy newer cars and painting was cheap back then. I used rattle cans of paint on various projects, but in the Southwest sun that paint oxidizes too quickly. When preparing to paint the first motorhome, a friend showed me how to use a paint gun and gave me his old Harbor Freight gun and got me started. Let me say that rattle can paint rate about 1 on a scale of 10 in comparison to single stage enamels or urethanes. (I've used leftover paint left in the gun on lawn furniture and it stays shiny for years.) Someone asked for a closeup of the striping. The rig is stored a half hour away at the site it was painted, so I'll have to get that for you in a week or so. Here are a couple of other photos that were shot at stages during the painting process.
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Old 07-24-2014, 11:28 AM   #46
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Are you using an HVLP gun? Otherwise, didn't overspray taint the white?
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Old 07-27-2014, 06:25 PM   #47
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How much paint did this project take?

We own this exact same year and model of rv... albeit not in as good of shape as yours. We've got some serious mechanical issues right now (the cummins got dusted over the course of our last 2 trips and needs a complete rebuild) and I'm not certain it's worth rebuilding given the shape the exterior is in. I thought that if I could do some body work and repaint it (have done this on cars before) that it might make the RV nice enough to justify the cost of rebuilding the engine...

That said, ours has serious body issues... the aluminum is corroding from the inside out and forming holes. In several larger places, it's actually quite thin... so thin in fact you can stick your fingernail through it and white powder pours out. I've tried digging out some of the bad spots... then denting them in a bit and then using a polyester glazing putty (flexible) to fill them back in. (surprisingly, the luan is still fairly solid behind the aluminum) With this method, I can actually get the exterior fairly decent looking with the body work, and then the paint goes on pretty nice too. ( I did a test patch) The problem is the oxidation is like a cancer... and only days after digging out all of the bad spots, filling, and then painting over, the corrosion starts to bubble the paint out again and actually softening the bondo. I think it's actually wicking moisture out of the air? Not sure. I've never seen anything like it to be honest. Kind of amazing.

At any rate, I'm feeling a bit discouraged at the moment... what with a blown engine and now finding out just how bad of shape the body is actually in. I might try some Duraglas type filler as it was actually developed for marine applications and is water proof... unlike the stuff I'm using. If that works, I'd go ahead and do a complete single stage paint job on it once I've saved enough $$... and was just wondering how much paint this big of a job would actually take.

Here are a couple pics just so you can see what I'm up against. I almost think it's a lost cause. There's a company called crane that manufactures new exterior panels for new motorhomes. This rv really is just about perfect for our little family, and I would be willing to spend a reasonable amount of time and money to fix it up... but I suspect new panels are very expensive... even if you could get them to return your emails... and I also suspect that the oxidation of the aluminum will continue to deteriorate the exterior. It might be time to cut our losses? Not easy to swallow though. We already have far more into this old beast than it was ever worth. Such is life though...


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Old 07-28-2014, 11:05 AM   #48
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If you have a metal supply in your locale and you're a good DIY'r, which it looks like you may be, you can buy sheet aluminum and install new panels.

Patching the holes isn't getting to the root of the problem and new bubbles will just keep popping up.
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Old 07-28-2014, 11:23 AM   #49
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If you have a metal supply in your locale and you're a good DIY'r, which it looks like you may be, you can buy sheet aluminum and install new panels.

Patching the holes isn't getting to the root of the problem and new bubbles will just keep popping up.
I think you are probably right....

Sourcing contact adhesive and aluminum isn't really a problem... ,or Filon for that matter... (here is a link to filon) but it has to have a backer like luan for rigidity in order to get that smooth appearance. So far, I have only read that people have issues getting the lamination process to hold after a year or so? I've never read where anyone actually laminated their own panel with lasting success? If anyone has, please let me know... I would not be afraid to undertake the task if I knew it would stay together.

By the way, not intending to steal this thread... I have a thread in the vintage section about new siding. I really only wanted to see how much paint the OP used on his Endeavor.

-cheers
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:01 PM   #50
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This is where the Airstreamers get .032

2024-O ALCLAD ALUMINUM from Aircraft Spruce

4x8 $100
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:20 PM   #51
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This is where the Airstreamers get .032

2024-O ALCLAD ALUMINUM from Aircraft Spruce

4x8 $100
Thanks for the link. I might have problems trying to attach sheets of a specific size since there are limited studs and perlins on this coach?

There's basically a 3' x 35' laminated panel on top, and a 4' x 35' panel on the bottom. I'd have to find a roll of aluminum... one would have to be very careful handling an entire roll as it would bend and buckle easily...

-cheers
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:38 PM   #52
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so add a stud

you don't want to think about sheets longer than 12' for a DIY
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:04 PM   #53
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so add a stud

you don't want to think about sheets longer than 12' for a DIY
I would not be afraid to work with large panels once they're laminated. I have a garage big enough to do all the work in, and I could use several small hoists off the ceiling to lift the panels into place. In fact, if I could get the old panels off intact, I could use them for templates to cut the new ones...

My issue has always been fear of the laminated panels not staying laminated...

-cheers
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:37 PM   #54
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why do U think they need to be laminated?

Airstreams aren't, the sheets span about 30" with .032 ga
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:47 PM   #55
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why do U think they need to be laminated?

Airstreams aren't, the sheets span about 30" with .032 ga
I guess just because that's how the existing body is put together? I never really gave it a thought I guess. Depending on what the frame looks like I could have a lot of trouble getting it flat and looking nice? I dunno..?? Lots of people say these HR's were put together well... but I'm not so sure. I see an awful lot of places where it looks like corners were cut. That being said... I have nothing to compare this one to...

I wonder about the windows too... if they would work with a thinner wall?

Something to think about anyways...
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Old 12-13-2014, 09:10 PM   #56
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I am so glad someone out there is willing to do this. I want to do it as well. I just got a 1995 Holiday Rambler Endeavor LE 33D. Do you know much about the mechanicals of your Endeavor?


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