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Old 12-06-2017, 01:58 PM   #127
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Lights should be getting power from your batteries....even if other sources of power fail. Check the voltage of the batteries with a voltmeter as a first step.

Fuses not circuit breakers should be checked next.
The MH has been plugged in here in my driveway since day 1....
Nothing increased bill wise or changed until we brought out our heaters but it was odd changes in the house and the way it is electrified I guess.
One heater in one room cannot be plugged in on the same wall as my sons computer and our TV but it fine on the opposite wall for instance.
Throwing a breaker is all.
Everything continued as usual in MH until now with the lighting.
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Old 12-06-2017, 02:03 PM   #128
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Picture #1 is your converter/charger. It powers your lights and charges your batteries.

It should feel warm if its working. The wires we can see coming out of it should read about 13 volts.

The wires from it, not in the picture, should have 120 volt, regular house power to them. They may go to a circuit breaker inside with the rest of them.
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Old 12-06-2017, 02:20 PM   #129
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I bought a meter way back when the neighbor "showed" me the glory of HF.....wasn't particularly impressed but either way, it never got used because I got too busy playing with taking things out I didn't want inside, then the leaks were discovered, then the heat and my job working my arse off.
Now I am having my texts wasted by obvious idiots trying to send me a money order for the gen and so on.
OKCnewbie?! Yes, PLEASE!! I am giving up on my former mechanic and his pal neither of whom will keep touch with me or even make room for me anymore.
I don't want to have to drive it anywhere to be in a shop for days like it was there anyway. Bad neighborhood.
I would drive it to where you said you are located however if that helped you or me.
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Old 12-06-2017, 02:22 PM   #130
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This probably won't fix this immediate problem but, your 12 volt battery connections are in terrible shape. The battery clamps need to be removed, then they and the battery posts need to be cleaned.
I've known that, just never felt like bothering with them since the unit was able to be plugged in and because I had wanted to just "treat her" to all new pretty shiny ones anyway.
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Old 12-06-2017, 02:35 PM   #131
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In your first pic (converter) it looks like there might be two green fuses. You could check these to see if one/both have blown.
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:59 PM   #132
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I've known that, just never felt like bothering with them since the unit was able to be plugged in and because I had wanted to just "treat her" to all new pretty shiny ones anyway.


The connections to the batteries NEED to be in good shape even if you are plugged in......thatís because the lights really run off the batteries....

The plugged-in part just supplies current to the batteries so that they donít discharge.
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Old 12-06-2017, 04:30 PM   #133
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The connections to the batteries NEED to be in good shape even if you are plugged in......thatís because the lights really run off the batteries....

The plugged-in part just supplies current to the batteries so that they donít discharge.
That's not the case with most converters. They wire them after the house disconnect so the converter can work as a stand alone power supply, up to its rated output, to power the lights and other 12 volt devices, even if the battery is removed.
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:49 PM   #134
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That's not the case with most converters. They wire them after the house disconnect so the converter can work as a stand alone power supply, up to its rated output, to power the lights and other 12 volt devices, even if the battery is removed.


Yeah....but the RV we are talking about is really old..... so anything goes.....and she said the lights werenít working now
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Old 12-06-2017, 06:10 PM   #135
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You will see the Gen-turi thing in close quarters camping. I've never seen them in dispersed camping.
When I'm sitting on the curbside under the awning while camping and running the genny and there is little wind, or certainly when the breeze is blowing the wrong way, I can smell the exhaust, which I know is not healthy. I put up the Gen-turi, in 5 mins and now don't smell the exhaust.
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Old 12-07-2017, 12:47 AM   #136
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The connections to the batteries NEED to be in good shape even if you are plugged in......thatís because the lights really run off the batteries....

The plugged-in part just supplies current to the batteries so that they donít discharge.
Oh my lord, why isn't this easier to make sense of???!!! Geez o pete!!!
This does that and if that isn't this way, then those won't be the other way and on and on
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Old 12-07-2017, 12:52 AM   #137
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When I'm sitting on the curbside under the awning while camping and running the genny and there is little wind, or certainly when the breeze is blowing the wrong way, I can smell the exhaust, which I know is not healthy. I put up the Gen-turi, in 5 mins and now don't smell the exhaust.
Even the manufacturing of the Gen-turi caused an outflow of some factory gunk into the air. Everything we have created, the process it took to make it is likely the cause of our cancers and illnesses.
I pass by truck stops and oil refineries and nitrogen plants and just shake my head at the huge plumes of fumes, exhaust and vapors supposedly EPA regulated and think to myself, "yeah right".
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Old 12-07-2017, 03:43 AM   #138
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Old 12-07-2017, 04:45 AM   #139
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Oh my lord, why isn't this easier to make sense of???!!! Geez o pete!!!
This does that and if that isn't this way, then those won't be the other way and on and on
It's pretty straight forward - a lot of the things in your rv run off 12V - the 12V comes from the batteries. If your batteries are not maintained (posts are clean, water is at correct level, ground from the negative post is not clean and tight where it is connected to metal) then things are not going to work correctly. These are referred to as your "House" batteries.
The inverter/charger takes the 12V and changes it to 120V and supplies some of the outlets in the coach so you can run low wattage items on AC (it can only supply so many watts of power - mine is 2000 watts, others are more, some less), like the vacuum, the computer, hair dryer, TVs, crock pots. If you exceed the amount of wattage it provides you'll blow fuses/breakers. It also charges the batteries when you give it enough power from the 110 or the prewired genny (that is missing on yours) and also the alternator when the engine is running - this is done through a couple of components and if the wires/contacts on the inverter/charger are not clean and tight then it's not going to work correctly.
When you plug in the 110 it goes to several things - the main fuse panel and is distributed to wall outlets for things like your AC, your Microwave and the charger plus some of the outlets in the coach.
If you want to bypass all the stuff that is wired in the coach then you can run your generator and use extension cords to connect lights, the window AC, and anything else that you want AS LONG AS YOU DON'T EXCEED THE WATTAGE OF THE GENNY - so it's really no different then the inverter/charger and batteries you're trying to ignore.

You can understand that if you don't keep the battery in your car maintained you can't start the car to go to work. Your RV also has starting batteries that need to be maintained. If you don't maintain them, you're not taking that trip because you can't start the RV engine. These are referred to as your "Chassis" batteries.

None of this is magic - everything has to be maintained to work in harmony to make your living experience what you're used to (S&B) and expect from your RV.
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Old 12-07-2017, 07:26 AM   #140
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Oh my lord, why isn't this easier to make sense of???!!! Geez o pete!!!
This does that and if that isn't this way, then those won't be the other way and on and on
Keep it simple, just disconnect the batteries.

Your pictures show a converter NOT an inverter/charger.

A converter is a battery eliminator and will power your 12volt system. That's why I said to check to see if its running.
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