I need some input from you folks...please

[DonnaP]

We just bought a new Winnegago and are having issues with storage. My husband and I are thinking about actually building a nice storage facility for RV's and maybe boats. Maybe 20 seperate units with electric hook-ups in each unit. I am asking for your opinion on everything..and anything. Do you know of any others I could see on line?? Any websites available out there? What would be important to provide to our clients?
Being new to the RV world I would appreciate any and all suggestions.
Many thanks!
DGP

[DonnaP]

We just bought a new Winnegago and are having issues with storage. My husband and I are thinking about actually building a nice storage facility for RV's and maybe boats. Maybe 20 seperate units with electric hook-ups in each unit. I am asking for your opinion on everything..and anything. Do you know of any others I could see on line?? Any websites available out there? What would be important to provide to our clients?
Being new to the RV world I would appreciate any and all suggestions.
Many thanks!
DGP

[NLOVNIT]

Welcome to irv2, DonnaP.

You've come to the right place to solicit opinions for RV storage. I'm sure there will be plenty of ideas for you that'll come from our members.

What's important to me (as an rv owner) would be a secure, climate-controlled area. A security system (with cameras and a keypadded gate) would deter theives/mischeif. A well insulated building (where inside temps don't go below 30 degrees) would make it so winterizing with antifreeze would not be manditory (a chore most of us in the north don't relesh having to do each year).

High/wide enough door clearance is a must, too. I've seen many facilities that you just squeeze past the mirrors. It's nicer to have some more "wiggle room" when maneuvering into/out of a facility.

Good interior lighting is necessary. One bare 25watt bulb 20 feet in the air of a 20x50 unit doesn't cut it. You don't have to light it up like a football field, but having enough general lighting to move about without hitting your head on your mirrors is important.

Having individual units &/or electric hook up (20, 30 & 50 amp) would be a welcome bonus. I have heard of some storage facilites that also supply water hook up (to allow washing of the stored vehicle). But, to me, that only is cause for trouble (client leaving water running) & more expense (drainage system needs installed) than really necessary.

Don't price yourself out of the market. Do your research & observe your competition. Then price yourself accordingly. Also, allow for month to month rental. We've turned away from several storage facilities that rented for no less than 6 months because we need just 4 months at the most.

Good luck with your endeavor. Keep us posted!

L-

[Craig P.]

Boy am I envious, Donna! It has been my dream for years to find a parcel of land somewhere and build an RV/Boat storage facility. The issue for me is the price of land in California. It would take someone with a lot more income and/or backing than I have available.

Here is the dream I have in mind:
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>Enclosed storage for those who demand it. It is very expensive though, Such spaces here go for well over $200 per month.

Open spaces for those who can't afford the luxury of an enclosed space.

One or more dump stations is a must. You can charge non-renters a small fee to use it.

A large coin-op wash rack with clearance for high profile vehicles. These can be a real money maker. You could make even more money if you allow use by the general public.

And if I really wanted to go all out, a small RV supplies store.[/list]You have a good idea to offer electrical hookups, but I can see this getting very costly. Would you install meters at each site to determine electrical use? Without meters, someone could leave their heat on in the winter and A/C on in the summer. You'd be stuck with the bill unless it's monitored.


Just my 2 cents....

Craig

[cameo23]

some electric companies offer pay as you go electricity, its a little box that accomodates
a slide card (similiar to a debit card) you load
the card with x amount of dollars and then you slide the card through the box, and therefore you only get the amount of electricity you have already paid for. The box is connected at the point where the meter box is. Couple of our local electric companies offer these for people on a very controlled budget. Something like that would work good for each individual rental space so you don't get stuck for somebody running their electricity all the time.
One time as I was passing through Denver I saw a storage facility just off I70 and Kipling that had very high awnings for parking big rigs under, I thought that was a good idea.

[diandtom]

You need to make each unit at least 14 ft. wide and about the same in height. My shelter is 12ft wide and it is too close. I have to park it close to the left side so we can open the door. Sixteen wide would be great, you could open the slide. I would think 20 amp service would be ok for storage. You need just enought to keep battery charged and maybe run a dehumidifier.
Tom

[Route 66]

14' overhead clearance is needed for the door and interior as the newer Class A motorhomes are 12' to 13' high.

[Pusherman]

Most motorhomes these days are a minimum of 12'6" in height. Some are as high as 13'6" (high end Newmars for example). So a 14' ceiling height would be appropriate to handle all motorhomes.

We have a (new) barn to keep our coach in, and it has a 12' wide door, and 16' overall width. This is a very comfortable width for the barn, as I can even open up my slides in the barn.

So moral of the story: Minimum of 16' wide bays with minimum of 12'wide doors; 14' high ceilings will accomodate any coach with an overhead door.

[Bob (WA0MQE)]

This is usually assumed, but make sure the floor is blacktop, or concrete. Although, it seems to me I've heard somewhere blacktop is better then concrete to park tires on. Because of the oil based mixture, moisture, etc. cannot seep up through to cause tire damage. Concrete, on the other hand is porous and is not the best thing. As I said, I've heard this.

If blacktop, it would need to be packed very well to prevent indentation by heavy vehicle weights.

[Digital Boy]

Well, I'm a bit late to this party but, I would like to offer the following . . .

First and formost you're talking about starting a business AND making a real estate investment. If you think about it as a real estate investment then you might want to line up your "buyers" or tenents in advance of building.

Have you ever noticed that most new condo units, single family home developments and rental apartment buildings are all pre-sold or pre-leased?

Do that first. It's way easier to obtain financing to make improvements to an existing structure or new construction when you have leases in hand to show the lenders.

[RUFINIT]

Donna,

Here is one in Oregon. I checked it out a year ago. Great concept. A bit pricey, but worth it for those of us who need offsite storage.

Good luck in you project.

http://www.all-stor.net/index.htm

[j griff]

Donna,
You have received lots of good advice! Here are the things I believe to be essential for such an endeavor:
- Enclosed (heated may be an option)
- Hard surface (concrete or asphalt)
- Height: 14' minimum Width: 14' minimum, 16 preferred.
- metered electricity (30 amp) and water at each space.
- 24 hour access and 24 hour security (coded access gates, fenced compound, surveillance cameras, etc.,)
- dump available on premises
Nice to have: wash rack

[Digital Boy]

The only caution regarding concret floors is that untreated concrete cause the very importent chemicals inside tires to leach out after long exposures. This from Michelin at a rally.

[DonnaP]

Thank you all VERY MUCH! All of this information is wonderful! I am meeting with a builder today. Very interesting..asphalt vs concrete...I will check this out further. I did not think about using asphalt. You guys are the best!
Many Thanks!
DonnaP