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Old 07-24-2012, 04:02 AM   #1
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I need some solid information

Need some help. I have a problem with a very new Honda generator. I want to first say that I am not looking for a comparison of the EU 2000 and EU 3000.
Here is my problem and I would like to know if others have had the same issue. I run a construction company and have used Honda power on every piece of light equipment that is available with that power source. With that said, I guess I am definitely a Honda fan.
I had my two Honda EU 2000i's stolen in a break in to my garage. I decided to replace these units with a single EU 3000i. I have a rack built on my unit to accommodate the unit. Went camping at the race track on the weekend and found that the new unit ran a little rougher than my expectation. It was not real rough, but. The main problem was that as soon as we put the air on, the unit would go kick into overload. My AC is a 13,500 and I was of the impression that this Honda unit would handle this, with no other power draw. Am I asking too much of this unit. Is it not capable of the job. Was I misinformed.
I repeat,I don't want a comparison of the two sizes of Honda generators.

What I would like to know is:

Does anybody use this unit successfully for AC power?
Do you think I have a mechanical problem with the unit?
Do I expect too much of this unit
Would those that have real experience with this please post, as I need answers, not opinions. THANKS


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Old 07-24-2012, 04:22 AM   #2
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Was your converter or inverter on? I can't run my microwave full power with my 2000 Yammy if my converter is on.

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Old 07-24-2012, 04:43 AM   #3
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We use an older EU 3000 (not the i) at work every now and then as a "backup" to power the 13,500 AC on one of our trailers. It works, but just barely.
'87 Coachmen Leprachuan 27' on Ford E 350 w/ 460 cid, Hedman Headers, dual flowmaster exhaust
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:43 AM   #4
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Honda states runs *most* 13,500btu RV ACs. They also say:

AC Output
120V 3000W max.(25A) 2800W rated (23.3A)

Looking at the 3 RV AC mfgs, they all say less than 14a usage under full load. Unless you have one of the few ACs Honda says won't work, I would say you have one of these problems.

Something else is pulling amps (turn off inverter and/or unplug converter/charger)
Possible faulty starting capacitor.
Faulty load regulator on generator.

The best way to check this out is with a good amp meter. Check the starting amps of the AC with shore power.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:14 AM   #5
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Are you plugged into the 30A twist lock outlet or one of the 20A parallel blade outlets? Makes a big difference in the available power. The 20A outlet gets [briefly] marginal when the a/c compressor comes on but should be fine once the compressor is running. Even if you have one of the older a/c's that draw more amps (newer ones run around 12A for a 13,500 btu unit.

The fact that you say it runs a bit rough is suspicious. Hondas are normally very smooth, both idling and under load.
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:23 PM   #6
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Hey it depends on your amp draw and wether or not your A/C is fully loaded, 13,000 BTU unit will draw up to 16 amps when LRA is first on, then FLA about 11-13 amps , that's a load on that Honda gen.
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:35 PM   #7
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when I used my 3000eui the same thing happened to me at a race track. turns out I had the `fridge on AUTO. When the generator started, it switched to A/C power. 2 Minutes later the AC tried to kick on and the generator shut down (Overload). So I learned to keep my `fridge on GAS and leave my Electric HWH switch off; gas only. Worked fine after that.

I was plugged into the 30A outlet on the generator.
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Old 07-24-2012, 06:03 PM   #8
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I would suspect that the Honda is at it's max to run your A/C. I would also surmise that the A/C would need to be in top working condition for the 3000i to function properly.
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Old 07-24-2012, 06:08 PM   #9
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Put frig on gas and water heater on gas , no electric. The 3000 should carry a 13,500 BTUH unit. If you shut down the A/C and try to restart too soon, it may kick the 3000 off.

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Old 07-24-2012, 06:57 PM   #10
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A 3000 should handle a 13.5 AC. We were able to run a 13.5 Dometic AC on our previous TT with a Honda 2000 IF we made sure everything else was off.
2011 Chevy Silverado 3500HD LT Ext Cab 4x4 Duramax/Allison, 2016 Redwood 39MB, Disc Brakes, Mor/ryde IS, GY 17.5" H tires, 5.5K Onan, Dual ACs, auto level, auto sat dish, stacked washer/dryer, residential fridge, King sleep number. Michelle & Ann
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:46 PM   #11
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I have 2 13.5K Dometic penguins....my eu300i will run 1 just fine....Both my ACs once started pull 11.4 amps..I know starting the amp draw is greater. I do turn off the speed control so the genny runs wide open when running 1 AC...I do not run the micro, but leave the fridge on AC power...and do not turn anything else off inside my RV
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:13 PM   #12
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typo above...I meant my EU3000i
96 Dynasty 36' that does NOT wander, thanks to RuppParts.com and their superior "poly" suspension bushings
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:26 AM   #13
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Many have reported success with the EU-3000i.

If your air conditioner has a "Hard Start" kit, and you have NOT installed it, do so.

I have never tried my RV air conditioners on a generator other than my ONAN, but I know my 15000 BTU job would trip it's 20 amp on occasion (however it's due to be replaced in a few hours,, Turns out it had and "Issue".

The hard start kit may fix your problem, in any case it will make it easier to boot-strap it.

Option two is made by a company who's name starts with "V". like Vectron or some such. It is a battery/inverter/converter package you plug it into the Honda, plug the RV into it and when the demand (Starting current on the A/C) exceeds the Honda's ability, it kicks in and gives a bit of a "Boost".. Works just like two 2,000's in parallel, but only when needed, then it switches back to "Standby" and recharges it's battery.

Kind of expensive though, and sorry I have no link.

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