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Old 06-10-2015, 08:57 AM   #15
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It's got to be something for sure!

I drive with my Genny and 2 roof air units on as my dash air hasn't been enough. I have to periodically shut my roof air and Genny off because it gets too cold in the coach. Mines a 40' coach.
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Old 06-10-2015, 09:40 AM   #16
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Thanks!

Thanks all - I'll try the pre-cool method and the dynomatt around the engine area - the engine does put off some heat into the rear cabin no doubt.
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Old 06-10-2015, 09:54 AM   #17
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What is the outside temperature when you have that problem? Above 98*,I have that problem.
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Old 06-10-2015, 10:05 AM   #18
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The hotter it gets outside the worse the problem is for sure.
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Old 06-10-2015, 10:09 AM   #19
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You state output temp resting, but you need more readings. You need intake air and outside ambient temp.

Then same three readings for traveling.
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Old 06-10-2015, 10:13 AM   #20
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A little theory & suggestions

I don't know your specific problem, but the suggestion to check the output temperature for the roof air units while driving at cruising speed is a good first step. It's possible that while you're driving, you're getting a problem with air flow over the refrigerant cooling coils.

You may or may not know how A/C works. In case, I'll give a quick description to help understand a possible problem. Any gas will heat when compressed and cool when it expands, and all refrigeration works based on those two facts. The compressor squeezes the refrigerant, causing it to heat. That compressed refrigerant is then routed through a "radiator" and outside air is forced through the fins to cause the heated refrigerant to cool while remaining compressed. Then the refrigerant is put through an expansion valve where the gas suddenly cools much more due to the expansion. That "super cooled" refrigerant is then routed through a second "radiator" where inside air is forced through the fins to cool the inside air by giving up heat to the "super-cooled" refrigerant.

If something significantly reduces the flow of outside air across the heated refrigerant "radiator," the expanded gas won't be nearly as cool as it needs to be. So if the flow of air around the A/C cowling happens to create a partial vacuum that prevents the proper outside air flow, that could cause a significant loss of efficiency in the roof air units.

The other possibility would be leakage of warm outside air into the section that's supposed to only have inside air flowing through it.

Checking the output air temperature while driving at cruising speed would detect that something like one of these is occurring. You could start by looking for a possible place for the leakage (second issue described above) to occur. Figuring out how to deal with a possible partial vacuum effect could be more difficult.
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Old 06-10-2015, 11:06 AM   #21
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I had a friend who related his same challenge and they found it with a mechanic that told them he would have to smoke to see if there was other airflows. Anyway he road with them and found that there was a lot of air/smoke going out the back of the unit assumed to be the vacuam of the unit going down the road. Next he found that there was mass of in flow of air coming around the refrigerator and the vent over the stove. To verify that was it they taped and masked off both units on the outside of the coach and yes that was it. He them came up with a foam piece to fit in the vent and had a firm put insulation material of some kind around the refrigerator. the only thing he never made a comment about sealing the rear of the coach as previously mentioned.
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Old 06-10-2015, 11:54 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Dogpatch View Post
It's got to be something for sure!

I drive with my Genny and 2 roof air units on as my dash air hasn't been enough. I have to periodically shut my roof air and Genny off because it gets too cold in the coach. Mines a 40' coach.
Last few days we were traveling in 100 deg plus temps and running the generator with only the front AC and dash operating. Kept things comfortable. I think running both may have been too much. One thing I did notice is having the roof vent or vents open made a Huge difference. Learned to keep them closed.
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Old 06-10-2015, 04:03 PM   #23
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.... Actually does it good to run.
Running a generator is only necessary to prevent old fuel from fouling the fuel system, and helping to keep the bearings and seals lubricated.

There is no need to run it, just for the sake of running it, as the Genny service department's always dream that their customers will do. Indiscriminate use requires frequent service, parts consumption and purchase, and eventual rebuilds.

I have seen 90's motorhomes with generators that were hardly ever used and have very low hours, (but were simply "exercised" a few times per year), that work just fine, when desired.

But, yes, to keep cool you would need to run the genny to use the three A/C units while in transit. If you do not want to use the generator in transit, crack open some windows and open the roof vents if the weather permits.

The engine generates heat while it's doing it's thing. That heat will eventually warm the interior of the coach if windows and vents are not kept open, or the A/C units are not on if the windows and vents are closed.
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Old 06-10-2015, 04:04 PM   #24
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When running the genny and both house airs (but not the dash air) we found the greenhouse area had a tendency to get warm to hot while the back end was much cooler. Since the generator was already running, I placed 12 inch fan on the floor about 2/3's of the way back (one with a wide base) and aimed it toward the front of the coach. Additionally I set the airs about 4 degrees cooler than when sitting still. That has done the trick. The wife even complains sometimes about being too cool. Hope you can find something that works for you.
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Old 06-10-2015, 04:09 PM   #25
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Make sure you don't have a roof vent open that is sucking out your cool air..,GlenB
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Old 06-10-2015, 04:12 PM   #26
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Make sure you don't have a roof vent open that is sucking out your cool air..,GlenB
Yes, that would suck!
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Old 06-11-2015, 08:52 AM   #27
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Our A/C units have a "dump" feature that allows us to send the cool air straight out of the unit and bypass the duck work in the ceiling. That will cool the MH fast in the area on the A/C unit.
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Old 06-11-2015, 12:36 PM   #28
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If you are driving into the sun radiant heat will come thru the windshield heating things up. Also make sure that your A/C vents are turned so they are blowing towards the aisle between the slides when the slides are in.
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