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Old 06-11-2015, 02:11 PM   #29
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"jedwilli".....Even though your roof A/C's are ducted, if they have the exposed air intake, check to see if you have the adjustable grate. My Diplomat had the adjustable grate that allowed for the air to be shot straight down or forced into the ducts. if yours is adjustable, slide it open so that the air is forced straight down, not through the ducts.

Even though you're running the air, you often need to have some venting. You may want to try running your Fantastic Fans on low to draw the hot air off the ceiling.

If your coach doesn't have the adjustable grate to flow down or into the ducts, close the ducts in the bedroom. This will force all three units to push air forward. You might also try just running two. Run the front and rear and close the rear ducts, again forcing the air up front. All three nits run through common ducting.

Roof A/C's don't work the same while driving as they do while parked. The passing air makes them less efficient. You need to experiment with how you have them set, as described above and see what works best.
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Old 06-12-2015, 09:19 AM   #30
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Thanks again for all the replies. My monaco dynasty has a decorative panel that covers the air conditioners in the front. The intakes and vents are under these decorative panels with about a two inch gap that allows the air to flow.

What I realized is that it has dividers (rubber strips) the blocks the output air from going into the intakes.

I replaced those strips with foam dividers to ensure the air flow was moving correctly and to minimize the output going directly back to the intake.

The real issue here is this decorative panel (measures about 12' x 3') pushes the air to the sides of the coach, and when the slides are in - that basically means to the top of the slides.

Not sure if this all makes sense - but if anyone has this type of setup and figured it out - I'd love to hear it
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Old 06-21-2015, 07:43 AM   #31
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Our trip to Birmingham through 98 degree sunshine saw the inside temp get to 87 degree es with dash air and genset powering one roof air unit (BR door closed). Without the dash air blowing on us, it would have been uncomfortable.


Volts with air on and genset working were 115; which I thought low. The CG also measured 115 (great COE at Gunter Lake, near Montgomery), so maybe volts are OK?
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Old 06-21-2015, 08:09 AM   #32
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Wife and I have insulated our coach very well, this makes a huge difference. We have installed fiberglass in the entrance door, overhead in the front cap, step area and behind the dash (firewall). Also insulated our dash air ducts with Reflectix. We live in our coach so we find the cold spots as well as the hot spots. We also have Ceramic tinting on all windows,made a huge difference while driving. The upgrade we have done has another advantage, much quiter! Our coach also has no black or dark paint.
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Old 06-21-2015, 08:10 AM   #33
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Volts are good.
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:10 AM   #34
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Volts are good.
lol, at what point are voltage drops bad for our equipment?
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:20 AM   #35
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Quote:
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lol, at what point are voltage drops bad for our equipment?
bamaboy473
I have read that anything less than 108 VAC can damage RV air conditioners, however I've never run anything in my coach on less than 115 volts.
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:25 AM   #36
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lol, at what point are voltage drops bad for our equipment?

An EMS ( electrical management system) is usually set to shut down power at 104 and 132.
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Old 06-21-2015, 12:23 PM   #37
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!08 volts.
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Old 06-21-2015, 12:51 PM   #38
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lol, at what point are voltage drops bad for our equipment?
The Power Standards Lab has these charts. For the long term average 108VAC is the bottom Limit and 127VAC is the top Limit. Short term is more lax and in the cat "B" chart.
Power Standards Lab - Voltage Regulation


The spec for the Dometic Brisk-Air just says 115 VAC so I guess the standard has to go back to the utilities companies as documented in the first link.
https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?...62&app=WordPdf

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Old 06-22-2015, 03:54 PM   #39
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Thanks for the limits answers; sounds like our 115V were doing just fine...except that eliminated electricity as the prime suspect.

My sights are now set on the sat dome that is an original (maybe 30" wide by 16" tall). It sits about 5' in front of the forward A/C unit, and could be deflecting air during travel. Without a way to test actual temps, all I can offer is that my DW seemed to notice that the air was cooler while we were idling at a rest stop.

I will first test output temps at rest and at speed while the outside air is the same temp. IF the A/C output doesn't keep up at speed, then seems that removing the sat dome and re-doing the test is in order.

Does anybody know a better idea? To the OP, is your sat dome pretty close in front of your A/C unit?
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:07 PM   #40
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My Winegard dome sits about 2' in front of my A/C unit. never been a problem.
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Old 06-22-2015, 09:25 PM   #41
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My Winegard dome sits about 2' in front of my A/C unit. never been a problem.
What, then, could be the causes of some coaches not getting cool, and some owners saying that it's never been a problem?

Most of us have 13,500btu units... could the brand be any issue, or does brand get off the hook as a cause?

Most of us use gensets that provide adequate voltage for a single unit (at least). does that let voltage out as a culprit?

Air flow somehow remains in the mix. When you say, never been a problem, can you quantify days with temperatures inside and outside the coach?

Could you post a side photo of your coach showing the frontal area and roof?
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Old 06-22-2015, 11:59 PM   #42
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I'd like to know how much it cost to get all the slide seals replaced.

I have a full wall slide and a headboard slide. Our ducted vents run right down the middle of the coach. No vents blocked or blowing on top of slides when in.

Looking forward to seeing a solution. Interesting thread!
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