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Old 02-18-2017, 08:14 PM   #43
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Not being a pro at this . Should I not use that ? I ask because id like to know what is meant here "The split to 120 volts is taken care of in the MHs circuit breaker panel. " That circuit i mention has a twist outlet which I recentlly purchased a twist plug that accepts a 30 amp plug .
Journey cat, if it doesn't have a 4 wire service do not use it. Your coach needs a neutral and a ground to operate, since the loads on the 2 legs are never equally balanced.
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Old 02-18-2017, 08:28 PM   #44
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Not being a pro at this . Should I not use that ? I ask because id like to know what is meant here "The split to 120 volts is taken care of in the MHs circuit breaker panel. " That circuit i mention has a twist outlet which I recentlly purchased a twist plug that accepts a 30 amp plug .
The split is taken care of when using the properly wired MATCHING outlet.

You can't just adapt any outlet to your RV.

Did you read the article I referenced ?
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Old 02-18-2017, 08:43 PM   #45
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The split is taken care of when using the properly wired MATCHING outlet.

You can't just adapt any outlet to your RV.

Did you read the article I referenced ?
Not thoroughly . I will take some time for me to absorbe it
But thanks for that Its whats needed !
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Old 02-19-2017, 05:09 AM   #46
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Tim, if your panel is 240 then using a two pole breaker gives you 240 volts. A phase is 120v, B phase is 120v so one pole of the breaker is A phase and the other pole of the breaker is 120v but they are opposing phases which gives you 120/240v, the coach uses 240 volts.
Exactly. I thought JourneyCat was asking if he could supply 240 v to the RV. That would mean no neutral in which case he would be supplying all his RV appliances and outlets with 240 volts. So as you described above he needs to supply the RV with 2 120 volt legs and if the coach has a 240 volt outlet and it is wired correctly he will be able to use it.

So technically he is supply 240 volts to the RV, but just be aware like your house it is split between 2 120 volt legs which are 180 degree's out of phase thus giving you the opportunity to obtain 240 volts.

I believe we are all on the same page.
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Old 02-19-2017, 06:02 AM   #47
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Here another one for discussion. An older camp ground we visit was originally wired with just 120v 30a outlets. When they started having more guests that required 50a service they had a guy come in and changed the 30a outlets to 50a. He simply changed the outlet and ran a jumper wire from L1 to L2. These outlets do not have 220v available. Both legs of our coach have power and our surge protector and power management system read it as 30a.
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Old 02-19-2017, 06:43 AM   #48
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Here another one for discussion. An older camp ground we visit was originally wired with just 120v 30a outlets. When they started having more guests that required 50a service they had a guy come in and changed the 30a outlets to 50a. He simply changed the outlet and ran a jumper wire from L1 to L2. These outlets do not have 220v available. Both legs of our coach have power and our surge protector and power management system read it as 30a.
*Shakes head and cringes*
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Old 02-19-2017, 09:02 AM   #49
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Its all clear to me now . Lucky was smart enough not try that old circuit .
Next time up there ill see what I can do to correct it Thanks to all !
Thats sure is a valuable electric artical
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Old 02-19-2017, 01:20 PM   #50
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Tim, if your panel is 240 then using a two pole breaker gives you 240 volts. A phase is 120v, B phase is 120v so one pole of the breaker is A phase and the other pole of the breaker is 120v but they are opposing phases which gives you 120/240v, the coach uses 240 volts.
I know what you are trying to say, but there are not two phases. Residential service is single phase.
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Old 02-19-2017, 01:48 PM   #51
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I know what you are trying to say, but there are not two phases. Residential service is single phase.

Us non electrical professionals get caught saying two phase even when we know it's not. Makes more sense to us somehow. I have a layman's knowledge of 120/240 power on the consumer side of a weather head but very fuzzy about the power company side. I've heard linemen talk about "center tapped neutral" and have a simplistic notion of L1 coming off the top half of the sine wave and L2 off the bottom or vice-versa. Don't really know how that translates to what's happening up on the transformer.
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Old 02-19-2017, 02:07 PM   #52
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I know what you are trying to say, but there are not two phases. Residential service is single phase.
[moderator edit] Single phase 120/240 systems do have two phases A and B. I design and build electrical systems for a living and well, I'm an expert at this.
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Old 02-19-2017, 05:49 PM   #53
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Todd must be using verbage thinking of single phase verses 3 phase and there not being a 2 phase.
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Old 02-19-2017, 07:28 PM   #54
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Vicr is (obviously) correct. We're getting wrapped around the axle on the terminology. Residential wiring IS single phase, but there are 2 legs on the panel which are 180 degrees out of phase which each other, which cancels current on the neutral. This is known as phase A and phase B.

Contrast this discussion with 3 phase electrical for industrial applications. Not found in residential applications.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-20-2017, 12:08 AM   #55
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Some people who have responded are a little off track about residential single phase electric service so I thought I would try to resolve any confusion. As for my credentials, I am an electrical engineer and worked over 40 years for the local electric utility.

Most residential homes receive single phase, 120/240 volt service from their electric utility. Single phase means there is only one phase on that service. The transformer serving the house has two coils inside. One, the primary coil, is connected to the high voltage side with one end connected to the high voltage wire (for example, 7960 volts at the utility I worked for) and the other end connected to ground. This means there is 7960 volts across the primary coil. The other coil, the secondary coil, has three connections. The middle of the coil is connected to ground and is also connected to the neutral wire going to the house. The two outside ends of the coil are connected to the two "hot" or energized wires going to the house. The turns of wire in the secondary coil are designed to produce 120 volts in each HALF of the coil. Therefore one measures 120 volts from each hot leg to neutral or ground. The measurement from one hot wire to the other hot wire is 240 volts because half of the secondary coil adds voltage to the other half of the secondary coil (120v + 120v). Another way to look at it is there is 240 volts across the entire length of the secondary coil and 120 volts across half of it. Electric voltage on both hot wires have the same sine wave so they are the same phase.

Hopefully this helps.
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Old 02-20-2017, 10:19 AM   #56
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There is 2 phase power delivery in some eastern areas but that is a whole nutter thing.

Pay attention to the pros who do this as they have the good information.

Our suggestion is to wire the 50 amp outlet for the rv as such using the correct wire size as if you had 50 amps available as the cost is not much more for materials and labor same.

Less voltage drop and someday if you upgrade the supply you only need to change breaker.

Given following restrictions.
Main supply is 40 amps
Main supply is distance at minimum wire size

We suggest using the 30 amp dual breaker as there is some loss in the wiring that could cause issues if you run too many things that may cause excess draw.

The ac runs about 12 to 15 amps and if 2 installed usually one on each side so you should be fine.

This also gives cushion for other loads of 10 amps as you suggested.

There also may be something in the NEC regarding circuit size related to supply size but that is best left to the pros.
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