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Old 05-06-2016, 08:33 AM   #29
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Scott,

First I would like to praise you for having the insight to install a battery monitor. These things are awesome even when everything is working and can be invaluable when something needs troubleshooting.

If you disconnect your battery what voltage are you getting out of the converter? What model/make is the converter?
As most have said; You need to be seeing voltages as high as 14 or more when the battery needs charged and around 13 for float after it is charged.

Good luck pard
Hmmm....I am getting ZERO at the hot wire at thee battery when I test it off of the battery.

Looks like I should start shopping for a replacement converter...

I even checked all the fuses, and reset all breakers.

So, this converter...is it located behind the fuse panel, or is it part OF the fuse panel?
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Old 05-06-2016, 09:33 AM   #30
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That you won't know until you remove a panel that gives you access, unless you have the manual in your RV. If it came with a owners manual, you should be able to find out that way, if not, you can either call the dealer you bought it from, or pull a panel. Even if it's part of the distribution panel it's still replaceable. And remember it's still on warranty.

If it is indeed the converter (which it sounds most likely) consider a better converter/charger.
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Old 05-06-2016, 09:43 AM   #31
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That you won't know until you remove a panel that gives you access, unless you have the manual in your RV. If it came with a owners manual, you should be able to find out that way, if not, you can either call the dealer you bought it from, or pull a panel. Even if it's part of the distribution panel it's still replaceable. And remember it's still on warranty.
We are leaving, going full-time in about 4 weeks. I REALLY don't want to drop it off for several weeks for a repair. Especially since i could replace this myself in minutes, and we need the trailer close to our house for the rest of this time to load the trailer up.

Would they let me remove the converter, bring it in for a test, and give me a replacement? Or would I have to drop the trailer off with them?

I found a new 30 Amp converter for $315. They also sell 12, 20, and 45 Amp models. Since my trailer is 30 Amp, would I need the 30Amp converter, or will one of the other sizes be needed?

BTW...thanks for all the help with this issue. It has likely been a problem for a long time, and I never found it until the original battery died, taking a fridge full of food with it!
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Old 05-06-2016, 09:55 AM   #32
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the converter is usually rated for your system needs. You want to make sure it has enough amperage to run everything you want it to, or you will end up short on power inside. You should look to see what you have already. Yes, you could do this too, it's pretty simple. Oh, and you can get better deals than the 315 you are looking at. Go to BestConverters and check them out.
But as twinboat already suggested, use your volt meter and check everything out first, I would hate to steer you into a new converter is all it is maybe a bad wire, or loose wire at the converter. There are usually two fuses at the converter itself you should check too, but then that goes only when you hook it up wrong.
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Old 05-06-2016, 09:56 AM   #33
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This should fit your power center- its a drop in replacement . Go for the 55A unit, more is better.
4600 Series Upgrade or Replacement Power Converters
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Old 05-06-2016, 10:17 AM   #34
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I knew mine was a single stage converter, so I got a PowerMax 3 stage 55 amp, from Amazon for $120.

Check every connection you can find in the wires from batt. to power center before condeming it.
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Old 05-06-2016, 10:26 AM   #35
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Right now, it is parked at the hay shed, so I have to drive around with my golf cart and tools to work on it. Either today, or definitely this weekend, we will move it to our house near the garage, so I will have better access to tools and not have to ride back and forth.

I will tear it open and see what we have.

Again, THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!!!
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:36 PM   #36
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Fixed it!!!

Well, I tore into the converter/fuse panel, tested everything, and it is putting out 13.6v at the converter. Followed the hot wire toward the battery, and hot all the way, except RIGHT before the battery.

My trailer has a battery cutoff switch at the tongue, so I flipped it. Still 0v.

Flipped it back on, 13.6v!!!

Apparently, that switch is dirty or has a poor contact, so I will need to keep an eye on it.

Inside, on the battery monitor, now shows 13.6v. So apparently, power is coming through now.

Model is Arterra wf-9955pec, apparently 55w output.

Instruction manual says:

Absorption Mode: During this mode, the converter output is in the
13.6 Vdc range. This is the normal operation mode. This mode
provides the 12 Vdc and current required by the 12 Vdc RV appliances,
as well as slow charging the battery.

Bulk Mode: In this mode, the output voltage of the converter will
switch to 14.4 Vdc range for a maximum of four hours. If the converter
cycles between “Absorption and Bulk mode”, there could be a shorted
battery cell or other issues.

Float Mode: In this mode, the converter is charging the battery with a
trickle voltage of 13.2 Vdc. When the converter senses a demand (by
turning on lights), the converter automatically returns to the
“Absorption mode”


So, looks like we are back up and running, repair was FREE, and no downtime with a trip to the repair shop!

And, more important...I now know what everything looks like, where possible future issues may come from, and how it is all layed out.
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Old 05-06-2016, 01:57 PM   #37
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Well done! Way to keep after it and thanks for letting us all know the outcome.
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Old 05-06-2016, 02:13 PM   #38
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Do you have a 2025/2030 meter?

Did you have any problem setting up the meter? P1, P2 etc.

If I remember right you may have to be plugged in for a while before you actually see 100% charged. You should be able to immediately go to the amps setting and start figuring out what current draw everything has. It's a really cool device. If you set it up right you won't want to go much below 60% charge.
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Old 05-06-2016, 03:12 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by okcnewbie View Post
Do you have a 2025/2030 meter?

Did you have any problem setting up the meter? P1, P2 etc.

If I remember right you may have to be plugged in for a while before you actually see 100% charged. You should be able to immediately go to the amps setting and start figuring out what current draw everything has. It's a really cool device. If you set it up right you won't want to go much below 60% charge.
Mine is 2030RV model.

It was a bit confusing setting it up the first time, but I got it all figured out after 30 mins or so. I set it up so it would give me a visual and auditory warning at 12.0 volts, which I think was 60%.

That is when I noticed that I only had 12.8 volts, and everyone here told me it should be up closer to 14 while charging.
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Old 05-06-2016, 08:40 PM   #40
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Possible to clea, the switch or maybe not.

Large current switches are not too expensive so consider replacing.
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Old 05-06-2016, 09:50 PM   #41
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That is out.......standing. That's the biggest thing about working on your own equipment, you learn from it. Glad to hear your up and runnng.
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Old 05-07-2016, 07:57 AM   #42
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That is out.......standing. That's the biggest thing about working on your own equipment, you learn from it. Glad to hear your up and runnng.
Learn from it, and figure out what tools are needed to shore up my tool box...

Going full time in a couple weeks, and need to be able to fix anything that comes up without relying on factory authorized repair shops.
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