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Old 09-01-2013, 03:30 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Craig P. View Post
I am building an RV pad, complete with hook-up’s next to my home. I purchased the below 50A power pedestal from RVpoweroutlet.com. The bottom of the pedestal is to be buried 24" below ground. I will be pouring concrete around the pedestal, which raises a question I have for those of you that are more knowledgeable than me about electricity. Can I pour concrete around/against the base of the exposed pedestal, or should I leave a dirt gap? I see these things encased in concrete at CG’s all the time, so I’m assuming it is safe to do so (?).

Thanks.

Craig
I'd use the fibrous expansion joint material. This will leave some wiggle room for thermal expansion and contraction.
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Old 09-01-2013, 03:33 PM   #16
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A proper ground rod is driven at least 48" deep and is copper or copper clad.
If this does not have its own meter adding additional ground rods is a no no. Only one ground reference is allowed. This circuit needs a four wire feed. No local ground rod.
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Old 09-01-2013, 03:36 PM   #17
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If this does not have its own meter adding additional ground rods is a no no. Only one ground reference is allowed. This circuit needs a four wire feed. No local ground rod.
This is true, I was replying to another poster that said the box would be buried 24" and so it would serve as its own ground. I should have been more clear.
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:00 AM   #18
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There is no correlation between meters and ground rods. For example, your house is supplied by 3 wires. Ground rods are used at the meter and if the house breaker box is seperate from the meter, another rod is used. You see the ground wire and rod below the meter because it is outside and visible. Every breaker box generally needs its own ground if the ground and neutral are bonded in the box, which is common in most RV CG pedestals.
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:56 PM   #19
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There is no correlation between meters and ground rods. For example, your house is supplied by 3 wires. Ground rods are used at the meter and if the house breaker box is seperate from the meter, another rod is used. You see the ground wire and rod below the meter because it is outside and visible. Every breaker box generally needs its own ground if the ground and neutral are bonded in the box, which is common in most RV CG pedestals.
How exactly did you come to this conclusion?

Grounds and neutral wires are bonded at the FIRST means of disconnect ONLY. (Usually at or near the meter)

This allows a fault path to ground to trip the breaker. A ground rod not connected to the neutral bond does not give fault current a place to go.

So how does your scenario allow a to ground fault to actually trip a breaker? A local ground rod only presents a low impedance load. Probably can catch worms with it or drive off moles but it adds zero for safety.

If the pedestal ground and un-grounded conductor are bonded - according to the NEC the bonding screw needs to be removed. The grounded and un-grounded conductors only are bonded at one point-----EVER!

When a circuit shorts to ground the current passes through the bond screw to neutral which trips the breaker. The current doesn't go to the earth.

Don't give bad information.
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:07 PM   #20
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Do you have a permit?

Ask the inspector all of the questions here as he will approve the work.

At communication sites we have meter ground for the meter and master ground for the site, and everything metal is connected via halo to master ground which is no where close to meter ground.

The only person who can correctly answer how to install your pedestal at your house is the inspector in your location.

Depending on total cost a permit is required, here it is $500.00 total, so to be safe get one.
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:56 AM   #21
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Not getting a permit. Acquiring a permit in my county triggers a property tax re-assessment. When I widened my driveway for the RV, I was forced to purchase a permit in order to cut the city's curb. Two months later, I got re-assessed for an additional $500 per year in property taxes, so there's a lot more to it than just the cost of the permit. Our taxes are already some of the highest on the nation, so I don't care to pay more.

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Old 09-09-2013, 07:23 PM   #22
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Not getting a permit. Acquiring a permit in my county triggers a property tax re-assessment. When I widened my driveway for the RV, I was forced to purchase a permit in order to cut the city's curb. Two months later, I got re-assessed for an additional $500 per year in property taxes, so there's a lot more to it than just the cost of the permit. Our taxes are already some of the highest on the nation, so I don't care to pay more.

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P.S. -- Use a four wire feed.
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:08 PM   #23
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I agree.....easier to ask for forgiveness then beg for permission.
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:14 PM   #24
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I just completed this project and used a 4 x 4 treated post then installed a weather proof box and buried plastic conduit and ran 6-3 with ground to the box with a 50 amp breaker. ground is at the supply panel and then everything is grounded.
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Old 09-10-2013, 05:26 AM   #25
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This thread is filled with so many electrical inaccuracy's.

Please 'hire a professional electrical contractor' before you kill someone.
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Old 09-10-2013, 07:57 AM   #26
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This thread is filled with so many electrical inaccuracy's.

Please 'hire a professional electrical contractor' before you kill someone.

I would respectfully point out that hiring a 'professional' does not guarantee professional or safe results. Please refer to THIS THREAD for evidence of this. There are many more examples.

On the other hand, I could name a half dozen 'non professional' members of this forum that I would trust to wire an RV pedestal at my house before I trusted the job to a 'professional electrical contractor' I found in the phone book.

Further, it would be helpful for future readers of this thread if you were to cite some of the inaccuracies you see and correct them.
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Old 09-10-2013, 10:29 AM   #27
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This thread is filled with so many electrical inaccuracy's.

Please 'hire a professional electrical contractor' before you kill someone.
I have hired an electrician, but as Ramblin pointed out, not all electricians are well versed when it comes to RV electric. My pedestal outlets are all pre-wired, so it looks like all my electrician needs to do is run a heavy 4 wire feed from my house's electrical panel to the pedestal. The people that manufacture the pedestal say I don't need a ground rod, as the metal pedestal serves as one. I plan to discuss that with my electrician the day he does the install.

Craig
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:02 PM   #28
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Wiring isn't all that complex IF you know what you're doing, otherwise hire an electrician. I have a long time friend who is a city electrical inspector that gave me the low down (for free) when I asked him how to add a 50amp outlet for the MoHo. Basically, for an RV, it's really TWO 50amp 120v circuits. So there's two hot wires and TWO grounds, so no need for a ground pole. Though if you felt the need, use an eight foot stainless steel rod that is at least seven feet in the ground. I have one for my recording studio and have extremely "clean" power!. He also suggested I remove the outside insulation if using conduit (due to potential overheating). He said some inspectors won't approve it otherwise. Well, I did everything right and it's been trouble free. As far as burying your pedestal, you could think of it like a fence post and use gravel instead of concrete. Not quite so permanent that way.
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