Is gravel better than dirt to park RV on?

[Chuck_Hammer]

Por-15


Rust Paint - Rust Proofing Products - Rust Protection - Corrosion Control - Eastwood
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[Meandering Retiree]

I bought some cheap tarps and place them under the mh to keep the moisture from coming up. I also place plastic over the boards on which the tires rest.

[jeep2001]

Thanks guys for that information. I priced the gravel today and they told me $35.00 per ton and a $40.00 delivery fee. I told them l was doing a 8x30 area and they said it will take about 2 1/2 tons if l go 2" deep. I think that's is a pretty good price. Does that 2 1/2 tons seem about right, or should l get 3 tons to be on the safe side? I am calling next week to get a price on the asphalt.

[Chuck_Hammer]

Originally Posted by jeep2001

Thanks guys for that information. I priced the gravel today and they told me $35.00 per ton and a $40.00 delivery fee. I told them l was doing a 8x30 area and they said it will take about 2 1/2 tons if l go 2" deep. I think that's is a pretty good price. Does that 2 1/2 tons seem about right, or should l get 3 tons to be on the safe side? I am calling next week to get a price on the asphalt.

35 a ton is fair,,,, 40 is dirt cheap for delivery

but the 2 1/2 ton ... I was quoted 20 ton for twice the size area... 8x60

and my quote.. is from a guy that has done my driveway several times.
and lives 2 doors away. and his trucks can carry 10 ton easy.

[0rion]

a ton will roughly do 240 sq ft 1" deep. Personally.....I would go deeper than 2" especially on a new pour. When I do even my gravel drive I go 3" deep and it's an established drive. So if it were me I would do a solid 3 ton.

[rarebear.nm]

For my 5th wheeler, I put down a 6" layer of compacted base course (a gravel, sand & clay mix) and inset an array of cement drive pavers for the wheels and landing gears. I also place two 14" x 14" x 6" wood block under the landing gear pads, mostly just as a height filler. I live in the semi-arid region of Santa Fe, NM and don't really worry much about ground moisture coming up. But, I want to keep the wheels and anything touching the ground, off direct contact with the ground. I've been thinking about getting a stable pad as described above for said reasons.

[jeep2001]

Thanks guys, I was thinking 3 ton to be on the safe side. Now maybe 3 1/2 or 4 tons might be better. I am calling some blacktop companies tomorrow to get a price on that.

[Gordon Dewald]

Depending upon how compacted your sub base (dirt) is you should be placing about 5 - 6 " of well graded crushed gravel to build a solid base for your motorhome. 2 - 3" will be OK but will push into the sub base.

[Waiter21]

Gravel would be better than dirt, asphalt or concrete would be much better than gravel.

Moisture percolating up from the ground directly under the MH will condense on the underside of the MH. Whatever you can do to reduce that moisture will help.

If you lay a tarp down, it needs to be able to drain so it won't collect moisture and aggravate the problem. A tarp with water laying on it will be considerable worst than sitting on dirt.

Asphalt may be your least expensive option, but you need a good base to support the weight i.e. a 3-4 inch layer of packet gravel and a two inch layer of asphalt.

NOTE - We looked at a 15 year old MH in Michigan that sat its entire life on a parking spot at a lake (gravel) The interior was like new, When I climbed underneath, I could punch a hole through the frame with a screwdriver it was badly rusted.

[nothermark]

FWIW when we put in a pad last year the spec was 8-10 inches of stone. 2 -3 inches sounds too light. That is about what we put under a new garden shed.

[simplecamper]

$35 a ton for gravel is very high and so you are getting it from like a landscaper I take it.

Ok I am bit country so we deal in agriculture often (we have horses ourselves) but with my new TT I am putting down crush and run $420 for 20 tons delievered (one load for the dump). Quarrys are around and get their prices so then look around find someone who does agriculture drives and such. It is a side job for our guys. You should not be paying no more than about $25 a ton, but that is here in NC. I have seen it at $18 a ton, now this all crush and run. Put that down first, that is all I put down.

I have had or have a few trailers (not TT) never had rust to the underside. I will watch my TT

[jeep2001]

Yes that price for the stone is from a landscaper. I had the blacktop man come out today and he will have the estimate for me this week. I had another idea about 2' x 2' patio blocks from Menards. Could l just put these blocks on top of the dirt l could even put a tarp or plastic underneath the block to help stop moisture coming up from the ground. Would that idea work? Thanks Mike

[rarebear.nm]

I think that the psi from the tires on those 2 x 2 ft blocks will just break them into small pieces. Its hard to get the base under blocks that large compacted and leveled evenly enough to support the weight, esp. on dirt. Dirt will move and shift with water and freezing temps. I used 12 x 12" blocks, doubled layered them using an off-set pattern on top of 6" compacted base course and they still have cracked in places, many are still intact. I created a 3 x 5 ft. area under the tandem axles. As the wheels roll across the blocks considerable pressure is applied to the block's edge before the wheel gets somewhat centered on the block, that's when they seem to break. But at times the wheels will be parked on a blocks edge. A cheap and quick solution, but far from ideal.

I have a 14,000+ lb. 5th wheeler. I plan on pulling those blocks out and pouring a 6" layer of concrete with #5 rebar on a 6" grid pattern for both the tires and landing gear pads.

[0rion]

I would also think that asphalt will develop dips in it where the tires rest.