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Old 06-18-2012, 11:34 AM   #1
Junior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club
Nor'easters Club
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Auburn, NY
Posts: 19
is there a design flaw in my Fresh water tank?

Ok, I've been dealing with this issue since I renovated our Class C Midas. The fresh water tank is connected to the water pump and then onto all the utilities. The problem I've been having is that once the tank gets down a few gallons, it starts to not be able to draw from the tank. The pump is not able to suck the water up into the system and we are left with no water. Makes the wife very discouraged about dry camping. Anyways, the tank is located under the camper and has three valves located on the top side of the tank, one for Fill, one for air and the third for going to the water pump. There is also a drain on the bottom.
My theory is that because the valve is on the top side of the tank, once the fill gets below a certain point, the pump just cannot suck from the tank anymore. Why would these valves be designed to be on top? Are other Class C tanks designed this way? Should I modify this tank to have the valve feeding the pump come from the side or underneath the tank? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I need to have confidence in our water system so we can dry camp because thatís the most fun for us! (and cheaper!

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Old 06-18-2012, 12:01 PM   #2
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Auburn, CA, Havasu, AZ & Mulege, BCS
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There are very few RV water tank designs that get the last drop of water out. Mine has a flat bottom, w/a bottom mount access fitting for pump, but the flat bottom leaves water in the tank depending on leveling, flexure of the plastic tank bottom material, etc. Side mount drain is worse as it cannot be actually to the bottom of the tank, and as soon as the pump can suck air you have delivery issues w/water still in tank. Top access w/a dip tube leaves some space between dip tube & bottom of tank. so basically you pick your poison. Bottom drain is the best, a well measured dip tube from top mount is second IMO.

Your dip tube may be too short. Many mfgr's hire second rate help who don't care if they do the job more of less in the ball park, so perhaps your dip tube got cut short. Its like a straw in the bottom of a milkshake, too long & you suck the bottom of the glass & get no shake; too short & you don't get all the shake. To fix it yourself you can either pull the existing fittings & rebuild, or if that stuff is all glued into place you will need to drill a new hole & assemble your own plumbing & glue it into place. You will need specialized glue to adhere to the type of plastic tank wall, generally available at plumbing supply stores (not H.D. or Lowes in this case) where they will have several types usually 2-part, and usually in a dual syringe setup, something like Flex-Set by Marinetex (google).

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Old 06-18-2012, 12:50 PM   #3
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Thank you for your insight! I will drop the tank this week and see if I can determine the length the diptube is or whether it may be to short. I wasn't even thinking there might be a tube inside the tank, but now that you say that, that makes total sence that there would be. how else could it evacuate the water.

I'll let ya know as soon as I drop the tank and check this out.
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:00 PM   #4
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Check where your "outlet" is that supplies water to the pump. On my Holiday rambler the line was about an inch up the side of the tank. The bigger problem was when you would antifreeze it for winter then try to get ALL of the antifreeze back out and flushed. I made HR remove the tank and install the "Bung" outlet on the Bottom of the tank. Now theres a concept huh ? Then to insure all the water drained I cut a piece of styrofoam on a wedge and when the tank was reinstalled it allways drained to the low end. Why dont engineers think ??
Don and Nancy
[2014 40QBH Phaeton, 2015 Buick Enclave, 2yr old sisters Sara n Kaycee, Havanese, Two Segways
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tank, water

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