I've got a gas problem :)

[Jrm7997]

I hope someone can check out this video and explain why my range gas is out of wack.

I've checked around and followed a lot of what i found to clean out the ports, feed tubs etc. I should be getting three strong flames. At this point;

my propane tank is 3/4 full. I just had it filled and we used it over four days. Although I wasn't to impressed with the way he filled it. He turned on the tank opening valve (opening propane to the appliences) and not the little overflow valve that spills propane when 80% filled. I asked but he said he had to do it that way.

I've purged the lines and can start the burners so I have propane. The HWT is working fine so there is propane.

the electronic ignition isn't lighting the burners. The spark is working and strong. I don't think gas is migrating down the pipe to the ignition source.

When the front burner is on it looks soooo limp? weak? to me it should be much stronger.

The front burner pulsates. You can see it in the video.

The back burners are hard to light and are barely on. I also noticed the flame seemed to back up in the pipe leading to the burner. The pipe was also hot making me think that propane was burning in the pipe.

I hope someone has seen this or can direct me to a solution.

Thanks in advance

[Charles L]

I just had a similar situation. My understanding is the valve to the appliances should be shut and the vent open. I checked one burner and it works. I suppose filling with the valve open could damage the regulator but I am not sure how.

[MSHappyCampers]

Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

I'm not a expert on this so I'll let others give you the correct info.

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!

[puttin]

I good idea would be to check the gas pressure- it should be 11" of water column. Or just install a new propane regulator- they are usually only around $25.

[Ljwt330]

Originally Posted by puttin

I good idea would be to check the gas pressure- it should be 11" of water column. Or just install a new propane regulator- they are usually only around $25.

This^^.

Ideally, the regulator should be checked for correct pressure yearly and adjusted if necessary to the 11" wc. This should be done by a trained tech with the proper testing equipment. In the real world, this seldom happens unless there is an issue like the OP's. The weak and pulsating flame points to possible regulator problems ranging from blocked air ports in either or both the first and second stage regulators, or out of spec second stage regulator. You can inspect an clean the ports yourself. If that doesn't remedy the problem, then a pro adjustment or replacement with a new two stage regulator will likely solve the issue.

In my limited experience, I've never heard of filling the tank with the main valve open. In theory, the regulators should prevent high pressure vapor from entering the line to the appliances as that is their function, but why risk it?

[Old-Biscuit]

First off.......
LP Reg routinely sees 100 --- 250 psi on inlet side (1st stage)
So filling tank with service valve open wouldn't hurt regulator....just a dumb attendant that doesn't know what they were doing.


Close tank service valve....open stove top burner/close it and then slowing open tank service valve.

Excess flow device could have been tripped when filling with service valve open.


Secondly......
LP System pressure S/B 11" WC (0.4 psi)
Stove/oven has a regulator that controls pressure at 10" WC (0.36 psi)


Igniters not lighting burners off is most likely due to incorrect fuel/air ratios due to limited propane flow from the Excess Flow Device being tripped


SO close the LP Tank service valve, relieve pressure on system then SLOWLY open service valve back up and try stove top burners again


Give it a try and see what happens.
IF still an issue then one can start replacing parts

[Mojim]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

First off.......
LP Reg routinely sees 100 --- 250 psi on inlet side (1st stage)
So filling tank with service valve open wouldn't hurt regulator....just a dumb attendant that doesn't know what they were doing.


Close tank service valve....open stove top burner/close it and then slowing open tank service valve.

Excess flow device could have been tripped when filling with service valve open.


Secondly......
LP System pressure S/B 11" WC (0.4 psi)
Stove/oven has a regulator that controls pressure at 10" WC (0.36 psi)


Igniters not lighting burners off is most likely due to incorrect fuel/air ratios due to limited propane flow from the Excess Flow Device being tripped


SO close the LP Tank service valve, relieve pressure on system then SLOWLY open service valve back up and try stove top burners again


Give it a try and see what happens.
IF still an issue then one can start replacing parts

Old Biscuit is correct close and open valve slowly bet that will work

[Jrm7997]

Well i tried what you said a few times. I think the first time I was too fast. I also tried purging the lines over night then turning it on slowly but it hasn't changed. I did notice that each time i slowly turned the main valve there was a little spurting sound and something closing into place. I gather the internal workings of the main reg.

I also turned on the HWT just to confirm there was good pressure and there is.

So now I'm looking online for a new regulator and it isn't as easy as I thought.

First off, its listed as a Maytag Reg. RV20LTEF. The RV20 stand for the type and the letters refer to an internal vent, hi heat operating location and that it isn't adjustable. So it has to operate in a high heat location and it needs 3/8 NPT out and 3/8 NPT in (although mine has an adapter to 1/4 copper incoming pipe).

I have been in contact with a local supplier that will sell me a maytag replacement for $140 CDN. :(

I have also been in contact (telephone tag) with Maxitrol trying to see if there is a non-brand name equivalent regulator. Still trying to find out.

Anyone know of a better way to go about finding a new reg.?

Thanks

[Ljwt330]

Originally Posted by Jrm7997

Well i tried what you said a few times. I think the first time I was too fast. I also tried purging the lines over night then turning it on slowly but it hasn't changed. I did notice that each time i slowly turned the main valve there was a little spurting sound and something closing into place. I gather the internal workings of the main reg.

I also turned on the HWT just to confirm there was good pressure and there is.

So now I'm looking online for a new regulator and it isn't as easy as I thought.

First off, its listed as a Maytag Reg. RV20LTEF. The RV20 stand for the type and the letters refer to an internal vent, hi heat operating location and that it isn't adjustable. So it has to operate in a high heat location and it needs 3/8 NPT out and 3/8 NPT in (although mine has an adapter to 1/4 copper incoming pipe).

I have been in contact with a local supplier that will sell me a maytag replacement for $140 CDN. :(

I have also been in contact (telephone tag) with Maxitrol trying to see if there is a non-brand name equivalent regulator. Still trying to find out.

Anyone know of a better way to go about finding a new reg.?

Thanks

What rv do you have? I cannot find an example of the specific regulator you mentioned, on line. Does your rig have a two stage regulator as do most? I have found several regulators used in rvs, and none were over $60 US.

Can you post a picture of the regulator along with its location in the rv?

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Ljwt330

What rv do you have? I cannot find an example of the specific regulator you mentioned, on line. Does your rig have a two stage regulator as do most? I have found several regulators used in rvs, and none were over $60 US.

Can you post a picture of the regulator along with its location in the rv?

OP is talking about the Stove/Oven LP Regulator....not the RV LP Reg.


Stove/oven has separate reg that controls propane to 10" WC for the range




What is RANGE MODEL??

[Jrm7997]

Maytag Regulator RV20LTEF. The RV20 stand for the type and the letters refer to an internal vent, hi heat operating location and that it isn't adjustable. So it has to operate in a high heat location and it needs 3/8 NPT out and 3/8 NPT in.

The reg. Is right in the top of the cook top as the gas line feeds to the individual burners.


I can’t remember the model number but I’ve notice two or three other brands use the same model number but a different brand in front of it.

[Jrm7997]

..... you guys are keeners. It’s nice to see members with lots of posting experience. I’m in the position of changing from the Duramax forum (always pulled 5rs till now) to a class A forum. And, like all forums, you have to read posts with a grain Of salt. Particularly those posters with low posting experience.

So thanks. seeing your experience gives me confidence.

[Jrm7997]

I have been finding that the replacement parts for this range are discontinued and that is why i'm ending up looking for a replacement.

The range is a three burner Maytag CLY 1620 BDB.

The replacement regulator is a Maxitrol RV20 LTEF


The Maxitrol Technician says it could be replaced with a Maxitrol RV20 LT
1/2 psi in and 10.0" out with 3/8 NPT in and 3/8 NPT out a high heat area regulator.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Jrm7997

I have been finding that the replacement parts for this range are discontinued and that is why i'm ending up looking for a replacement.

The range is a three burner Maytag CLY 1620 BDB.

The replacement regulator is a Maxitrol RV20 LTEF


The Maxitrol Technician says it could be replaced with a Maxitrol RV20 LT
1/2 psi in and 10.0" out with 3/8 NPT in and 3/8 NPT out a high heat area regulator.

YES ...
That will work.
LP System pressure is 11" WC (0.4 psi)
Reg drops system pressure to 10" WC (0.36 psi) for stove/oven burners