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Old 09-25-2012, 04:04 PM   #1
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leaking or blown wheel cyclinder

your out in the middle of no where and lose a hydraulic wheel cyclinder now what? an old trick i've used is to take off the hydraulic line at the wheel cyclinder that is leaking and insert a common nail in the line. its flat head needs to be big enough, as big as the flair, and small enough to fit into the cyclinder fitting hole. then put the line back onto the cyclinder. what you have just done is to take that leaking cyclinder out of the system and now you will have a brake system. if you want to have someome push easy on the brake pedal to get the air out, while tightening the fiting. (i've done it by myself leaving he air in and the small amount of air was not a concern). with out that brake depending were it is, the rig will pull when the brakes are applied. but being carefull you can get to a repair shop. if you use this method drive slow and i don't mean 55 instead of 75. well if you need this trick here it is.
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Old 09-25-2012, 05:01 PM   #2
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The nail will damage the double flare on the end of the line as well as the seat in the wheel cylinder. If you want to be prepared for this buy a female tube plug in brass.
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:50 PM   #3
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You can bleed the brakes yourself by wedging a board or whatever between the seat cushion and the pedal. Pump them up, wedge, bleed, repeat.
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:56 PM   #4
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use a c-clamp on the rubber brake line and drive it to get to where you can get it fixed. Had done this myself
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:14 PM   #5
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I once used a small pair of needle nose vise grip pliers to pinch off the line on an old pick-up truck I had,worked great.
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:36 PM   #6
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Some good ideas to "get you to a repair facility"
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:29 PM   #7
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mrv8outboard this fix is just to get you out of a spot. you dont torque it down to 100 lbs. just tight enough not to leak. working for small companies in the 60s and 70s used this trick to any times without any problems. replaced wheel cyclinder back at shop. learned it from the old mechanics when i was young. and a brass fitting wouldn't seal the flaired brake line. you'ld have to have a brass cap with a nipple inside for the flair, i haven't seen one of these and anyone thinking they would have a wheel cyclinder or master cyclinder problem would have one of each with them. you carry an alternator and starter with you right.
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Old 09-26-2012, 12:06 AM   #8
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What about a small ball bearing?
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Old 09-26-2012, 04:26 PM   #9
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leaking wheel cyclinder

if that's what you have give it a try. because of it's diameter the fiting might not be able to reach the threads. but give it a try. i always could find a fence to get a nail. then always kept nails with me. in a pench i've used nails and 3- 12 volt batteries with jumper cables to weld with, ugly, ugly, ugly weld, but it held enough to get me out of the spot. (before someone asks how, no hood. i only buy welding gloves. i'd cup the weld with my second hand keep my eyes closed and weld by sound. nails heat up really quick so you don't get to far, use lots of nails, and really ugly but it got me by. always a drag running woreout company trucks, but it makes you think, and you gets you in really with the master mechanic. when you're in a pench think outside the box.
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Old 09-26-2012, 04:38 PM   #10
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Thumbs down Pump it...

Unless you have a very very old unit you have no action required other than to drive very slow and carefull.

The braking system is dual redundant.

What I mean is the front and rear are completely seperate systems with only 2 common components.

A pressure differential switch between front and back, this is what activates the brake failure light.

THe other is the master cylinder, inside the pistons are arranged so a failure in either the front or rear will allow the pistons to move to where the remaining one still will work.

If the leak is in the end one the piston moves to the end of the chamber, if in the top one the piston rests against the other one.

Yes it may make a mess, and the brakes may not be very good, but these other repairs increase the risk of damage from the "stopper" and unless you have the correct tools you may do serious damage to the vehicle in addition to your fingers via the DNA left behind the wheels.
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:44 PM   #11
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leaking cyclinder

tq60 is correct all the newer hydraulic brake systems are a dual master cyclinder one side for the front the other for the back. more important i have never loosened a brake or clutch fitting that didn't need a line wrench. most of the time if you use a regular wrench you will round the fitting. now you made the problem really big.
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:36 PM   #12
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That's what ViseGrips® are for.
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:59 AM   #13
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They do make the specific female tube termination caps. But why would you have a common nail in a motorhome? Here in New England most tube nut are rusted beyond ever using a wrench to get them off, let alone a termination cap or nail. Most of the temporary (just get off the road fix) repairs I see in my shop are the customer flatting the line with a hammer.
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