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Old 10-04-2014, 02:53 PM   #15
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Thanks to everyone on the forum. I'm sure that once we get out and experience some pretty uneven sites, we'll be looking at levelers as definitely needed.
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Old 10-04-2014, 03:19 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmilewsk View Post
In this day and age, I can't imagine having a MH without jacks.

Have had two C's without, and 3 A's with the auto levelers. Would not buy another without them, and the "more automatic and self leveling" the better. First two had to use the bubble, the current unit, place in park, set the brake, push the button and go about chores of set up, then come back and shot down the system and engine.
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Old 10-05-2014, 10:10 AM   #17
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What I find interesting is how worried so many folks are about being absolutely level. Our criteria is that the pancake batter does not slide to one side of the pan and the head of the bed is not lower than the foot. That's enough to keep the refrigerator happy and the shower draining. ;-) I'd rather put the $3-5K somewhere else.
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Old 10-05-2014, 10:30 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by nothermark View Post
What I find interesting is how worried so many folks are about being absolutely level. Our criteria is that the pancake batter does not slide to one side of the pan and the head of the bed is not lower than the foot. That's enough to keep the refrigerator happy and the shower draining. ;-) I'd rather put the $3-5K somewhere else.


I've got to agree, RV refrigerators, (the usual excuse for the OCD attention to level) only need to be CLOSE, not dead level.
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Old 10-05-2014, 12:18 PM   #19
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Lots of good advice here. IMO the best thing to do is using wooden blocks. Bit primative according to some people but cheap and effective.

Always try to start with the back end higher than the front end so the blocks go under the front tires. If you have to block the back make sure you have the block under both tires on the duals. Blocking one tire can cause sidewall damage.
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