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Old 05-11-2018, 06:19 PM   #15
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Here is a link to a discussion on the Class A forum.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/to-a...on-390392.html

It has almost 40 replies. The bottom line is your chassis designer and builder says it is ok. Your leveler system designer and builder says it is ok. From there it is up to your comfort level. I have no problem with getting all six off of the ground, but not at being near full extension. If I am near full extension, I will use blocks / ramps to reduce the extension.
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Old 05-11-2018, 07:57 PM   #16
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I carry leveling boards, drive the MH up on the blocks getting close to level then use jacks.
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Old 05-11-2018, 09:00 PM   #17
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My question has to be why would ALL wheels be off the ground? Elevating that last wheel cannot contribute to getting level.

The auto-level system needs to be re-calibrated. The owner also needs to take the needed corrective action to lower the rig enough to get at least some of the tires back on the ground and level from there.

The question about the rear wheels has been debated quite a lot here with no real conclusions.

JMHO

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Old 05-12-2018, 07:20 AM   #18
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Here are my 2 cents. Background- I know a little about geometry, and stress on mechanical systems. I also use to restored Corvette’s and have aligned various vehicles on Hunter Alignment systems.
With that said, if you have an independent front end I suggest you not level your MH with the wheels off the ground unless your manufactures information clearly states it is OK! Front ends of vehicles are general designed for load stresses in the direction when the wheels are on the ground, so the springs or Airbags are in compression. We use a LevelMate Pro to see how level the site is without leveling the MH. This tells up how many blocks (if any) we need at each wheel to get it close to level. Then we place the appropriate blocks and drive up on them. This allows us to get within a couple inches to level without the tires off the ground. P.S. We have a 2014 Winnebago Tour 42qd.
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Old 05-12-2018, 10:19 PM   #19
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I just downloaded the Truma app and now need to calibrate the coach then the app, then I start playing to see. I think I can lay it on the floor at the front of the coach and see how well it works for pre-leveling.
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Old 10-21-2018, 04:31 PM   #20
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Leveling- Okay for wheels to be off the ground?

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I have an auto-leveling system. Sometimes the system will level the RV with a wheel/s off the ground. Is this the correct way to use this system?


No it is not the correct way to use the system. None of the wheels should be off the ground. Most jacks are not designed to carry the entire weight of the rig, but rather take some of the weight for leveling porpoises. Use the manual leveling selection when a wheel is lifted off the ground in the auto level mode. Keep your wheels on the ground!!
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Old 10-21-2018, 04:38 PM   #21
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The LCI jacks on mine are more than capable to raise mine completely off of the ground. Based on my gross weight, it will probably lift more than 2x my gross. The problem begins when you have near full extension and a twist. I don't have a problem raising either set of wheels off the ground as long as the stroke is minimized and the base is leveled.
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Old 10-21-2018, 04:59 PM   #22
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Quote:
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The LCI jacks on mine are more than capable to raise mine completely off of the ground. Based on my gross weight, it will probably lift more than 2x my gross. The problem begins when you have near full extension and a twist. I don't have a problem raising either set of wheels off the ground as long as the stroke is minimized and the base is leveled.
Not sure how your rig is set up. I have an 06 Damon Daybreak with a Lippert system. The Jack's are 6k jacks hardly 2x. Depending on your rig, most likely 6 -8k jacks.
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Old 10-21-2018, 07:49 PM   #23
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My gross is 14,680, and 8 X 4 is 32K, so I am pretty sure I'm covered. I need to communicate w/ LCI anyway so I'll find out.
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Old 10-21-2018, 07:51 PM   #24
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Never the rear wheels. I would place blocks under the front before I would ever have them off the ground.
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Old 10-21-2018, 07:59 PM   #25
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My gross is 14,680, and 8 X 4 is 32K, so I am pretty sure I'm covered. I need to communicate w/ LCI anyway so I'll find out.
Wow, that is much lower than I would have expected. My empty weight is 16k. I would suspect you have the 6k jacks, but the 6k jacks still give you quite a margin. I would be interested to see which you actually have.
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Old 10-22-2018, 05:33 AM   #26
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Actually called Tiffin on this a couple of weeks ago and they said it was ok.
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Old 10-22-2018, 10:06 AM   #27
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I think that most have the same issue with this as many other things that are non-issues and that is simply the "optics". If somebody doesn't like the way that it looks, then it has to be a problem (to them anyway). My only problem with hanging the front suspension is putting that weight on the shocks. Wait until I get my tethers in place and people will really think it's off the ground.
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Old 10-22-2018, 11:59 AM   #28
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If you have a motorhome with airbags and drop them to the internal stops then hit auto level lifting the motorhome more than inch or two most of the chassis weight is on the jacks and tires are still firmly planted on the ground support the weight of the axle only. If the hill is steep enough that my motorhome on jacks would slide down the hill I won't be able to get it even close to level.

Now a 5er. We were doing wheel weights on 5er and decided to drop it and hit 6 point auto level. The tires on the 5er seemed to be in full contact with the ground but they're only 1700 pounds left on all four tire positions added together. The 5er GVW was close to 15,000 pounds so 13,300 was being supported by the jacks.
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