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Old 10-22-2016, 10:59 PM   #1
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Looking to buy RV and need to tow ~8,000lbs

The more I look for information the less sure I am of what I'm needing. Doing a google search of the forum isn't helping either, maybe I'm not using the right terms?

Here is my situation. I have a 1996 Toyota Land Cruiser that we off-road with and tent camp. We're wanting to upgrade our sleeping situation. I'm looking to buy an RV that will comfortably sleep me and the lady and our 2 small kids, tow ~8,000lbs (6,000 for the Land Cruiser and 2,000 for the trailer) and would like to keep it under $30,000 if possible.

So what is it I need to be looking for? Class A or C? Gas? Diesel?
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Old 10-22-2016, 11:15 PM   #2
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I would want a diesel to tow 8,000#'s. Finding a good one for under $30K is going to be hard.

Keep an eye on PPL Motorhomes they get a lot of consignments.

Used RVs, Motorhomes for Sale, and Consigned sales - PPL Motor Homes

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Old 10-23-2016, 04:14 AM   #3
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VuikB6-

Here's a link to a current iRV2 thread asking the same question.
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Old 10-23-2016, 05:56 AM   #4
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Looking to buy RV and need to tow ~8,000lbs

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Originally Posted by VuickB6 View Post
tow ~8,000lbs (6,000 for the Land Cruiser and 2,000 for the trailer)
Yes probably need a diesel pusher with a 10K hitch to pull that kind of weight. Most gas class A motorhomes have 5K towing capacity.
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Old 10-23-2016, 06:26 AM   #5
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Probably would drive better pulling that much weight if it had a tag axle as well.
Here is one to consider.

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Old 10-23-2016, 07:22 AM   #6
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Probably would drive better pulling that much weight if it had a tag axle as well.
Having a tag axle or not has little to do with the tow capacity. The tag is all about weight carrying, not tow rating. A vehicle under tow rarely adds more than a couple hundred lbs to the rear axle load, so extra weight carrying capacity is rarely required. Towing a heavy trailer might be a different story, but that's not the case here.

The main consideration if the strength of the hitch receiver and it's mount to the chassis. A pusher-type coach has chassis frame rails all the way to the back and can mount a strong receiver direct to the frame, while a front engine coach usually has only a light extension to the rear of the chassis and a relatively light duty receiver mount.
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Old 10-23-2016, 07:27 AM   #7
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Can the toyota be towed 4 down?
you could leave the trailer at home ! or trade the Toy and trailer in on a wrangler that will work just as well
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Old 10-23-2016, 07:32 AM   #8
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tow ~8,000lbs (6,000 for the Land Cruiser and 2,000 for the trailer)
You appear to be talking about pulling a car pulling a trailer, i.e. a double tow (sometimes called a triple, meaning a tow vehicle plus two things in tow).

Be aware that some states may not allow that, or require the driver to have a CDL when operating that way. Rules of the road differ from state to state, so check the laws in the places you intend to travel.
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Old 10-23-2016, 07:39 AM   #9
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Thanks for the help so far guys. Looks like a class A diesel is what I'm after. Was hoping I could get away with a class C gasser but I want to do this right.

The Land Cruiser could definitely be flat towed but it is heavily modified and on 37" tires which are very expensive and I would rather not put the miles on them if I don't have to. Up to now it has been how we get around the country and does a great job at it but after years of sleeping in tents my wife is wanting to upgrade. I have access to a trailer already so I'd rather do that.

I'm still considering swapping a 6.0L Vortec GM into it and pulling a ~20 ft ultra light with it. The I6 will do the job on flat ground but even with 5.29 gears it has a hard time pulling even its own weight up in the higher elevations. Just doing the research and seeing what's out there.

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Old 10-23-2016, 07:42 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
You appear to be talking about pulling a car pulling a trailer, i.e. a double tow (sometimes called a triple, meaning a tow vehicle plus two things in tow).

Be aware that some states may not allow that, or require the driver to have a CDL when operating that way. Rules of the road differ from state to state, so check the laws in the places you intend to travel.
My bad about the confusion. I'm asking about an RV that could pull the LC on a trailer. I don't own a vehicle that could pull a travel trailer and another trailer behind it. I looked in to what you're talking about and it looks sketchy at best to me.
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Old 10-23-2016, 07:54 AM   #11
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Looking to buy RV and need to tow ~8,000lbs

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
Having a tag axle or not has little to do with the tow capacity. The tag is all about weight carrying, not tow rating. A vehicle under tow rarely adds more than a couple hundred lbs to the rear axle load, so extra weight carrying capacity is rarely required. Towing a heavy trailer might be a different story, but that's not the case

The tag WILL help with driveability ....which is what I said. The extra axle and tires help keep "the tail from wagging the dog" ....meaning directional stability. More rubber on the road and more braking power.
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Old 10-23-2016, 08:01 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by pasdad1 View Post
Yes probably need a diesel pusher with a 10K hitch to pull that kind of weight. Most gas class A motorhomes have 5K towing capacity.
Agree.
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Old 10-23-2016, 07:11 PM   #13
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Agree.



I'll keep an eye out. Thanks for help fellas.
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Old 10-23-2016, 08:29 PM   #14
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Certainly diesel pusher with a true 10k rating...not just a 10k hitch where the gvwr of the coach and the cgvwr result in actual tow ratings far below 10k...sometimes markedly so
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