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Old 01-23-2012, 02:51 PM   #169
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Hard of Hearing? Mod

Since I can not begin to hear TV at levels suitable for DW, I needed to make some kind of change. At home the Direct TV box has audio out with sufficient output that wireless RCA headset works just fine - even with TV muted. But the Jensen TV, that came with our “A”, did not have a headset jack and the audio out (std RCA L/R jacks) was controlled by vulume control - so by the time I could hear in headset - so could the neighbors. However it did have a SPDIF jack which is digital optical format. Solution for this TV was to add a “Digital Optical Coax Coaxial Toslink to Analog RCA Audio AUX Converter“ (under $25 on Ebay.) I used a digital audio coaxial cable to bring the connection to front of TV. When I find a jack panel like the one pictured on wall - I will make it a permanent installation. Now my wireless headset works great. The bedroom TV I added did have a headphone jack but again, not enough power for headset - so I added a little FiiO earphone amplifier (typically used by kids with ipods to blow their ears out.) Works great for old ears too.
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Old 01-23-2012, 04:40 PM   #170
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Towing unit LED conversion

If you have a Workhorse chassis - please read and understand this quote:

"From Workhorse 2009 version manual page 8."
Improper wiring to towed unit can cause chassis and towed unit electrical problems.
Towed unit wiring is often added and is often spliced into Workhorse Chassis wiring.
Towed unit electrical requirements above 6 amps that is spliced into chassis wiring can overload the chassis turn signal and/or 4 way flasher switch resulting in switch continued failure. There are market kits that use relays such that the operating current does not go
through the turn signal or 4-way flasher switch. These relay kits are recommended in place of cutting into chassis wiring."

I would bet this applies to other chassis also.
I can’t count the number of forum discussions I have read about problems that probably could have been prevented by not overloading chassis wiring. All I did was change out toad brake/turn incandescent bulbs for LED versions to substantially reduce power load on chassis system as a temporary fix. I will add relays for total isolation at some point. If you want to push your luck - just check cost of replacing the multifunction switch. Under ten bucks for two LED lights is cheap insurance.
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Old 01-25-2012, 02:24 PM   #171
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Wrong way switch

Two under cabinet lights above bed were installed with switch facing center of coach. Looks nice but you had to slide one switch to rear and the other to front to turn on. Confusing and we could never remember which one was which. Since rear action to turn on was in keeping with similar lights - I removed the other and found switch held in place with plastic spring clips on each corner. Pulled switch out - rotated 180 degrees and reinstalled. Now both switches turn light on by sliding to rear.
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Old 01-25-2012, 06:47 PM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctpres View Post
Two under cabinet lights above bed were installed with switch facing center of coach. Looks nice but you had to slide one switch to rear and the other to front to turn on. Confusing and we could never remember which one was which. Since rear action to turn on was in keeping with similar lights - I removed the other and found switch held in place with plastic spring clips on each corner. Pulled switch out - rotated 180 degrees and reinstalled. Now both switches turn light on by sliding to rear.
Clever! Sometimes the simplest mods are the best.
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Old 01-26-2012, 10:19 AM   #173
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Stair Well Protection

Anybody have any mods to keep my poor little blind Katie from falling down the stairwell? My door is mid curb side and I put a big foam wedge up last trip out.

Was wondering if anybody else had thought of something cool besides a puppy gate?

Thanks!
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:21 AM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lincolnboy2 View Post
Anybody have any mods to keep my poor little blind Katie from falling down the stairwell? My door is mid curb side and I put a big foam wedge up last trip out.

Was wondering if anybody else had thought of something cool besides a puppy gate?

Thanks!

Cut a piece of plywood a little bigger then the stairwell, fasten 2x2s around the perimeter far enough in to fit snugly in the well and carpet if you prefer.
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:45 AM   #175
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Originally Posted by blackf3504dr View Post
Cut a piece of plywood a little bigger then the stairwell, fasten 2x2s around the perimeter far enough in to fit snugly in the well and carpet if you prefer.

Dont forget a lift handle.
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:48 AM   #176
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Curb feelers? Just an idea.
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Old 01-27-2012, 08:18 AM   #177
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Originally Posted by Loozycat View Post
Curb feelers? Just an idea.
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Old 01-27-2012, 08:20 AM   #178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackf3504dr View Post
Cut a piece of plywood a little bigger then the stairwell, fasten 2x2s around the perimeter far enough in to fit snugly in the well and carpet if you prefer.
Great Idea! 2x2's I hadn't thought of. Thanks!
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Old 01-27-2012, 01:02 PM   #179
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Ours has a filler block, thought it was lost until we cleaned the carpet.

Will try to describe the installation, ours is built from the factory so it is covered in carpet, since this is "new" to the coach then you could use Oak to make it look factory and real nice.

Open the door and look from the outside.

At the floor level you will need to place a "trim" board, say a 1 x 2 of Oak or other material around the edge of the vertical walls of the stair well.

Just visualize it for now.

Measure the width of the HOLE, in other words, the distance between the 2 sides of the stair well and the distance from the closed door to the edge of the floor.

Cut a pattern from cardboard, test fit to make sure the door closes, adjust as needed.

Next, you will need to build the filler step, this can be of whatever material you like, it is dependent on the covering.

Only thing is do NOT use MDF or particle board.

Most Home centers sell 1/2 and 1/4 sheet materials, and they can cut those as well.

If you use 3/4 plywood and the width is not too wide it will not require cross bracing, only the plywood, if you select 1 1/8 subfloor it is rated for 48 inch span, work with the store to insure the ply material you select is rated for span greater than the width of the stairwell, this is standard data supplied by the plywood manufacturer, or at the APA web page.

Select your material and covering, have the store cut it if you do not have the tools to do so.

Next go to the trim or hardwoods area.

You can either use standard 1x material which is squae on all edges, or look in the moulding department for a real wood trim that is suitable to use as a support for your filler.

Have them cut to fit the hole, mind the corners, depending on how you place them the dimensions will vary, you can fit them on top of your filler panel to insure they are correct lengths.

Apply whatever finish you desire to the trim so it will dry while you work on the filler.

If you are applying a covering to your filler do it next, as the supports need to be placed to have the floor flush.

Next measure the thickness of the filler, place the supports in place and attach with only minimal fasteners so you can test fit everything.

It needs to be flush wiht the floor and the door needs to close fully.

Adjust as needed.

Once you are satisfied with the fit add screws to complete the installation, either putty the holes, or use brass screws and space them acordingly.

OPTION
Go to someplace that has pet supplies, locate a nylon lightweight leash of a matching color.

Attach it to the outside edge near the door of the filler.

Hang the loop on the doorknob.

When you wish to exit simply grab the leash from the doorknob and pull up the filler, then grab the filler and set it aside.

Our coach only has a single step inside, so the filler panel rests on the top of the bottom or entry step, so we did not even know it was there.

If you have more than one step this may not be possible.
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:27 PM   #180
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We've had 2 National Coaches, both came with a cover for the step area. Never used them.

Glenn
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:01 PM   #181
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rear view cam

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Installed color video camera with night vision on rear. Got lucky in that rear wall not secured to fiberglass end cap and there was enough space between them for an easy wire drop to bottom. Power and coax underneath protected with PVC conduit for all but last 3 or 4 feet up front. Seven inch TFT LCD monitor secured to dash with Velcro. Wires thru space between between decorative panel and main dash housing by beveling inside edge of both pieces so no visible wire hole. Monitor and camera power controlled by dash switch and independently fused.
can u tell me where u got the camera. Mine is not working, also do u think i can use the old cam wires ?

thanks dave silva
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:49 PM   #182
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Here's some of my mods..........

from this .....

to this........



here too.....



....after spendin this past summer on our coach.....practicing for full timing....we decided we need more cloths storage........so I had this made.....and mounted it in the closet



I also installed a latching relay on my Jeep toad....to disconnect the battery from inside the car....with just a touch of a button....


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