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Old 05-16-2012, 07:15 AM   #309
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Soft shower floor around drain

Since new, stepping into shower resulted in flexing of floor in drain area. Removed plumbing inspection plate and could see that there was no support for shower floor on the drain end for about last twelve inches. There is ½ inch foam between shower floor and plywood support platform and that platform had spacer blocks between it and floor for all but that last foot. First I tried door/window shim stock between floating plywood platform and foam . That was fast, easy and did help some. But not good enough. I measured space from platform to floor, removed shims and installed additional spacer blocks. Better than shim stock but still to much flex, IMO due to size of drain cutout at end of platform and the fact that safe shower entry required foot placement very close to the drain. I have always been bugged by shower entry being so narrow - plus having faucets and the hose getting in the way. Finally a reason to change. Removed door latch from back end of shower and moved to front - added some foam bumpers to replace latch, shortened two screws that door was hitting due to increase in travel distance and DONE. Now we have more room to get in/out and we don’t step on weakest area of shower floor anymore. Hopefully shower and drain plumbing will last a lot longer. Project cost: $0.00 - scrap plywood and two hours.
If you have same problem, just move latch and save a lot of time.
Pictures very difficult: first shows unsupported floor, second shows new plywood supports and third new location for door travel latch.
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Old 05-16-2012, 12:34 PM   #310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAZ
Speaking of chips dip and morning coffee...

Here is my next project. A necessity for morning coffee or too much Tex-mex
To top off that new porcelain toilet, consider adding a soft-closing toilet seat. I hated the cheap plastic one that came with mine. I bought a soft-closing seat/lid from Home Depot a couple years ago....much more user friendly!

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Old 05-16-2012, 12:50 PM   #311
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Now if you want a really user friendly toilet seat try this:

Amazon.com: TOTO SW554-01 Washlet S300 Elongated Front Toilet Seat, Cotton White: Home Improvement

My former boss had one. Quite impressive and free shipping, too!
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Old 05-16-2012, 02:55 PM   #312
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Originally Posted by okmunky View Post
Now if you want a really user friendly toilet seat try this:

Amazon.com: TOTO SW554-01 Washlet S300 Elongated Front Toilet Seat, Cotton White: Home Improvement

My former boss had one. Quite impressive and free shipping, too!
Impressive, but a little rich.
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:33 PM   #313
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Now if you want a really user friendly toilet seat try this:

Amazon.com: TOTO SW554-01 Washlet S300 Elongated Front Toilet Seat, Cotton White: Home Improvement

My former boss had one. Quite impressive and free shipping, too!
Does it come with an operator or do you need to get a PhD in rocket science to operate it?
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:42 PM   #314
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While I was in the shower

Working that is! I was reminded that DW bothered by sliding shower doors rattling when on the road. Found bottom guide track almost twice as wide as door. Found some close cell foam left over from Fantastic fan installation and siliconed a piece on each vertical guide. Reinstalled doors, it looks and sounds like it might work. Only miles will tell.
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Old 05-16-2012, 08:13 PM   #315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig P. View Post
To top off that new porcelain toilet, consider adding a soft-closing toilet seat. I hated the cheap plastic one that came with mine. I bought a soft-closing seat/lid from Home Depot a couple years ago....much more user friendly!

Craig
Thanks! With a teenage son and 6 year old daughter it gets a lot of slamming.
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Old 05-16-2012, 08:30 PM   #316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAZ

Thanks! With a teenage son and 6 year old daughter it gets a lot of slamming.
There you go...exactly the reason I installed one. My son use to wake me up every night, now I don't hear a thing. I like them so well, I installed them in the house too.

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Old 05-16-2012, 08:46 PM   #317
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So you're going to install side by side commodes? Not sure I'd want that.
His and Hers?
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Old 05-17-2012, 04:05 PM   #318
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Carpet moves and shouldn’t - painters tape!

Painters tape uses probably will never outnumber duct tape - but it sure is a fun race. One of our long range RV diet items is the heavy rubber backed throw rugs. As they need replacement we are going with lighter weight ones. Problem is they won’t sit still. Solution: make a loop of painters tape around your hand with sticky surface on out side, put on floor and carpet on top. I used two loops for both new entry step rugs in late December. Two months snow birding in RGV, several short trips, lots of in/out trips at home and tape still doing the job. First test very impressive results. And cheap.
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:02 PM   #319
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We use the rubber anti slip shelf liner under the rugs after they get a little rip or something. The tape is good though.
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Old 05-19-2012, 08:40 AM   #320
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Shelves one down three to go

One of our bedside shirt closets has a single closet rod. At 36 inches deep there is room for a second rod or shelving in the rear. I decided on shelving. If you are thinking about a similar project you need to answer one question before you go any further. Can you reach back end to work? My closet door opening is only nine inches wide. I can not even touch back wall so I had some installation problems to solve before I started. Next question wood or metal? I opted for ventilated linen shelving: light weight, can see thru bottom to locate items, fairly cheap, installed upside down it comes with built in ledge to keep things from falling off and it is easy to work with. I used ¼ x 1 wood strips for supports. Cut shelving to fit with less than ¼ inch of space on sides. To drill holes precisely I just put end of shelf on wood strip and tapped other end of shelf with hammer hard enough to dent wood. Drill holes same size as wire rods or one size smaller so wood will stay in place while you move it around also pre drill screw holes small enough to hold screws. Press wood on ends and start screws before installing. Cut a couple scrap wood pieces to shelf height for temporary support while you screw it to wall. I used rubber shelf tip on the one rod to keep cloths for snagging on the rough edge. A wider piece of wood would solve that. I think shelf spacing should be fairly close together if installed behind rear axel. I am betting a shelf full of cloths will be less likely to bounce out. Project cost: Under $2.00 a foot less than an hour for the first shelf.
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:06 PM   #321
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Just completed my tile job! Removed the mirrors and replaced them with glass and ceramic tile. What a difference it makes! DW loves it. Here are my "after" pics.
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:36 PM   #322
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Our previous Sunline 5th wheel had a fireplace/heater in it. We upgraded to another Sunline 5th wheel to get the bedroom slide and large corner shower, BUT I lost my fireplace. Well, we were given a free standing fireplace/heater in a nice looking cabinet.

Well, I removed the doors and center pillar from the bottom of the entertainment center. Then I had to figure out how to install the fireplace without really doing any cutting of the original cabinet.

After a good bit of looking, thinking I came up with building a new oak frame on the sides & bottom of the fireplace, this allowed the fireplace to fit "Snug" in the existing hole. I did put a piece of wood on the bottom of the fireplace so there would be less chance of the fireplace wanting to possibly tip forward or backward.

Once I had the new frame stained & mounted to the fireplace, I slid it in place, YES nice snug fit. Next was to drill some holes in the new frame, counter sink the screws and use plugs in the holes to hide the screws.

We also installed a 2" x 12" vent in the side of the cabinet for air circulation. So, hopefully here are a few pics of my "girlie" project.

This is the "new" frame and back support I had to build.

Test fit:

The finished product

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