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Old 12-30-2016, 05:27 PM   #1135
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Originally Posted by silvrhand View Post
Assuming you are just using an ODB2 adapter over bluetooth for connectivity?
No, it is hardwired and its all concealed behind the removable covers - the ones right behind the windshield on the driver's side, and behind the cabinet panel above the driver's seat.
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Old 01-04-2017, 11:05 PM   #1136
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Jim,

What I did with mine is get the SilverLeaf VPSpc. It runs about $375 and comes with what you see in the picture below. It plugs into your port that you have (or you should have) on your motorhome - its the access port that allows access to your on board ECM for diagnostics (I think) and what-not. I also bought an RCA Cambio 11.6" Windows 10 computer. I ran the wires down the side of the windshield right behind the access cover. I ran power to the unit and concealed all the wires so that they are virtually undetectable. The Cambio I bought was only $108 refurbished.
Wow, thanks. That doesn't sound bad at all price wise. I also really like how you installed it. I will have to find where the ECM port is and see if it is even doable. Thanks for the info.

Jim
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Old 01-15-2017, 11:08 AM   #1137
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These may have already been covered, but I didn't read all of the posts! Most of our mod's pertain to electrical!!! One of the drawbacks when having a higher end unit and boondoocking is they "really" aren't designed for it. Example: We have a whole house( well mostly) inverter, which uses considerable battery storage just energized. Our entertainment center was 120v, and just to listen to the radio required turning on inverter. So, we ran a 12 v lead to entertainment cabinetry, installed a multi-jack plug-in. We now have a 12v automotive radio going to speakers, which are merely placed in entertainment section. The 12v multi-jack also supports the XM Roady (news,sports,music), also a place to recharge all of your 12v toys (cell phones, ipads,cameras,ect.). We also, installed a seperate,stand alone, 800 watt inverter, also wired into entertainment cabinetry (hidden inside cabinet doors ,so it doesn't look "tacky"). This can power 120 v power tools, and recharge the batteries for battery powered tools, again, without powering-up the big inverter. It also powers the small chest freezer that we put in place of one of the recliners. Now, that does look a little "tacky"! But, when covered with a decorative cover, it looks kinda like a tall end table. It serves as any other end table as well as holds lots of frozen food for the longer stays. The rv refrigerator freezer has very limited space, so we were using ice chests. TOTALLY impractical, we couldn't keep the food frozen, and 2 to 3 coolers loaded with food and ice actually weighed more than the freezer when loaded. All of this, without powering the big inverter! We've also changed-out all (and there were a lot of them) of our fluorescent bulbs to LED (very easy conversion, and LED lighting is getting less expensive). memtb
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Old 01-16-2017, 10:00 AM   #1138
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Originally Posted by memtb View Post
These may have already been covered, but I didn't read all of the posts! Most of our mod's pertain to electrical!!! One of the drawbacks when having a higher end unit and boondoocking is they "really" aren't designed for it. Example: We have a whole house( well mostly) inverter, which uses considerable battery storage just energized. Our entertainment center was 120v, and just to listen to the radio required turning on inverter. So, we ran a 12 v lead to entertainment cabinetry, installed a multi-jack plug-in. We now have a 12v automotive radio going to speakers, which are merely placed in entertainment section. The 12v multi-jack also supports the XM Roady (news,sports,music), also a place to recharge all of your 12v toys (cell phones, ipads,cameras,ect.). We also, installed a seperate,stand alone, 800 watt inverter, also wired into entertainment cabinetry (hidden inside cabinet doors ,so it doesn't look "tacky"). This can power 120 v power tools, and recharge the batteries for battery powered tools, again, without powering-up the big inverter. It also powers the small chest freezer that we put in place of one of the recliners. Now, that does look a little "tacky"! But, when covered with a decorative cover, it looks kinda like a tall end table. It serves as any other end table as well as holds lots of frozen food for the longer stays. The rv refrigerator freezer has very limited space, so we were using ice chests. TOTALLY impractical, we couldn't keep the food frozen, and 2 to 3 coolers loaded with food and ice actually weighed more than the freezer when loaded. All of this, without powering the big inverter! We've also changed-out all (and there were a lot of them) of our fluorescent bulbs to LED (very easy conversion, and LED lighting is getting less expensive). memtb

What type of fluorescent conversion kit did you use?
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Old 01-16-2017, 10:41 AM   #1139
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tmw188, Most (do a little research) are a easy change over. Make sure that you remove (or bypass) the old ballast, as the ballast is the primary consumer of energy. If you don't take the ballast out of the picture, you've gained virtually nothing. Another big plus for the LED's, is that cold temp's do not affect them. They are instannt on, at full brightness. Also, pay attention to the lumens(brightness) that they produce , as well as the light color wavelenght ( cool to warm). Some are a very bright white(too harsh for some people) to a cool white( a softer lighting ). I personally, prefer them to be a brighter white than most fluorescent bulbs. We're changing-out all of the fluorescent tube bulbs (I won't be chaning the 8 footers in the garage or shop soon, they're still pretty expensive) in our home to LED's, and are pleased, so far. Over the lastseveral years we've already changed out all of the incandescent bulbs to LED. Good Luck, memtb
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Old 01-16-2017, 04:15 PM   #1140
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tmw188, Most (do a little research) are a easy change over. Make sure that you remove (or bypass) the old ballast, as the ballast is the primary consumer of energy. If you don't take the ballast out of the picture, you've gained virtually nothing. Another big plus for the LED's, is that cold temp's do not affect them. They are instannt on, at full brightness. Also, pay attention to the lumens(brightness) that they produce , as well as the light color wavelenght ( cool to warm). Some are a very bright white(too harsh for some people) to a cool white( a softer lighting ). I personally, prefer them to be a brighter white than most fluorescent bulbs. We're changing-out all of the fluorescent tube bulbs (I won't be chaning the 8 footers in the garage or shop soon, they're still pretty expensive) in our home to LED's, and are pleased, so far. Over the lastseveral years we've already changed out all of the incandescent bulbs to LED. Good Luck, memtb

So I guess you are saying by just installing the LED fluorescent tubes it will not conserve on power because the ballast is still involved?


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Old 01-16-2017, 04:19 PM   #1141
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I don't get what is so 'bad' about turning on your 'big inverter'??

sounds like everything else you've done is using the same or more power than the big inverter is already designed to power by itself...

whether 12v or 120v, you're still using your batteries if not plugged into shore power, the inverter just changes 12v to 120v ...
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Old 01-16-2017, 04:44 PM   #1142
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tmw188, I 'm certainly not an elictrical engineer, but from my study, that seems to be the case. memtb
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:03 PM   #1143
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MisterT, Although it is not a "huge" savings on battery draw, it is noticeable. When the "big" inverter is in use, it powers-up the entire entertainment center( sat. receiver, 2 televisions, the Bose System,dvd player) and several kitchen appliances go to a standby mode. Plus the inverter, uses some energy just running itself. It is not a completely even conversion of voltage, and the inverter has a thermostatically controlled cooling fan which also uses a small amount of power. So if we only want to listen to the radio, it's very inefficient to power all the equipment not being used. We dry camp a bit (sometimes 3 weeks at a location)in late fall and sometimes in winter( low temps often in single digits to -20F), and try minimize generator usage. Six panels and six batteries are worked pretty hard with the short daylight periods and long cold nights. Obviously, we run the generator, especially if we do power up the "big" inverter and watch too much television (NASCAR, College/Pro Football ,and fall tv programing, equals a lot of tv time). memtb
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Old 01-17-2017, 05:18 AM   #1144
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I had done some solar work/experiments a few years back.
Solar panels produce DC which the current does not travel well through conductors. Voltage travels more efficiently through conductors and that's why a solar array is wired in series, to double or quadruple it's voltage between the panel and charge controller.

The automotive radio directly wired to the batteries is by far the most efficient.
Using the big Inverter vs smaller Inverter depends on the efficiency of the Inverters themselves. You can only know for sure by placing an ammeter in series with the load at the batteries.

You really have to consider the efficiency of each component of your system. For a solar charging system for example:
Two 12v panels will be wired in series to produce 24v, then the mmpt (I think they are called...its been a while) charge controller drops the voltage back down to 12v, recovering much of the current which would have otherwise be lost between the panels and controller.

Looking at the overall system efficiency variables:
*Quality of the solar panels themselves
*Diameter and length of conductor between the solar panels and charge controller. Me? I had two 12v panels in series for 24v ran through 50 feet of 6 gauge (real expensive & heavy) copper wire for about 15% (or worse) loss.
*Charge controller loss. I have a 30 amp Rogue mmpt controller. A very nice unit however it still has about 10% loss in conversion. Cheaper charge controllers can go far worse.
*Lead acid storage is about 85% efficient.
*Inverter loss: We have a mediocre 1200/2000w peak full wave Inverter which is rated to be around 12% loss. Count on the best ones to be around 95-97% efficient for 5-7% energy loss.
They don't even list the efficiency of cheap, modified sine wave (Wal-Mart) inverters. 50%? 70% ? Who knows.

Add it all up from the solar panel to the AC outlet you will only be around 45% efficient at best.
The more devices between the batteries and load that you can eliminate the more efficient you'll be.
An automotive radio wired directly to the battery is the most efficient way to do it. That is unless you're running a high wattage radio amp 40 feet from the battery.

With 6 solar panels, they should be wired together in a series-parallel connection to produce around 48 volts. That should be the target voltage through the conductor between the panels and your charge controller for maximum efficiency. Your quality controller will drop it back down to 12 volts for your batteries and retain more current than a comparable 12 or 24 volt solar array.
(But be certain your controller can accept a 48v input. )
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Old 01-20-2017, 08:19 AM   #1145
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Here is a mod to the new MH of ours. Its more of a personal comfort issue than anything else. The base of the steering column puts both pedals too far to the right and the throttle too far away for my stature. I rotated the brake pedal clockwise enough to get a new set of bolt holes thru the deck in its original location and moved the throttle pedal back a couple of inches, up 1/2" and rotated to match the newly mounted brake pedal. Now both pedals are aimed at the seat a lot better and comfort is greatly enhanced. It is most noticeable of course in bumper to bumper city traffic or any time you cant use the cruise control. Here is an "after" picture. I forgot to take a "before" as I was not sure of everything involved when I started disassembling. It took a little head scratching and a couple of days to work out the details but was well worth the effort.
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Old 01-21-2017, 07:16 AM   #1146
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I hope this has rear carrier worked out for you. Made one round trip Fl to Mo, and the added weight bent the frame of the 5er very noticeably.
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Old 01-23-2017, 10:02 AM   #1147
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Slide Tray Improvement

This was an answer to a post in another forum. As this was a modification, I thought I would mention it here. Our sliding tray is of a name brand manufacturer that has a max load rating of 100 or 125 pounds (not sure which one). That's pretty much a joke, our gear far exceeds that! Needless to say, ours flexed (a lot)! So, I bought some angle iron and 16" long rollers. I mounted the rollers between the two angle iron brackets (secured to the floor beneath tray). I used 4 rollers which gave good support along the length of the slide tray. The slide tray no longer sags and is much easier to slide in and out.
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Old 04-06-2017, 12:39 AM   #1148
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That is 3/4 copper so the I.D. is the same as the I.D. coming out of the muffler.....but I would imagine the corrugation causes too much turbulence. It was a "day-before-the-trip" deal. I'll find some smooth bore pipe and like you said, go larger when I get time.


Copper will degrade pretty quickly from the combustion gasses. Find a plumbing wholesaler and see if you can get 1" or larger "CSST" corrugated stainless steel tubing. Use the appropriate bushing to get to the size that you need and try it.
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