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Old 04-06-2017, 05:21 AM   #1149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matfam1 View Post
Copper will degrade pretty quickly from the combustion gasses. Find a plumbing wholesaler and see if you can get 1" or larger "CSST" corrugated stainless steel tubing. Use the appropriate bushing to get to the size that you need and try it.
The corrugated has way too much back pressure. It won't even run the A/C with the pipe on it since it looses so much hp. I've yet to get back to it but it needs redone. It needs smooth pipe or something else.
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Old 04-11-2017, 01:09 PM   #1150
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OverDo,
Great pedal mod. Assuming the pedals are electric and not mechanically connected could they both be moved to the left side of the steering column for someone driving with the left foot? Or could a second set be added to the left side so it would still work in the traditional way. Would need a removable pedal guard for the side not in use.
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Old 04-11-2017, 01:12 PM   #1151
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My latest mod is ramp to get my ATV over the tool box and off the tailgate.....so I can remove the tailate....so I can take the ATV and the bumper pull travel trailer. Dad-gum shortbed son-of-a- *#$&$&

Last night I raised it up off the tool box. Tonight, I'll add some expanded metal for tractions and some safety tie down points and paint.
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Old 04-12-2017, 05:02 AM   #1152
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4X4dually,
That's a great way to get 4 pounds of stuff into a 3 pound bag.

Rojaco,
The brake pedal has some air lines hooked to it and requires a round hole in the floor and some bolt holes but should be relatively easy to move to the other side of the column. The gas pedal is a "drive by wire" version so no holes required except to bolt it down. You should be able to move either one or both with just a little work. You might have to extend the air lines a little or at least go back on the chassis a ways and free up some slack.
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Old 04-12-2017, 12:33 PM   #1153
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OverDo,
Thanks for the info. Very helpful.
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Old 04-15-2017, 12:51 PM   #1154
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Table Refinished

Refinished the dinette table in our Forza with MinWax Helmsman Gloss Urethane, sanded, compounded, polished, waxed...
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Old 04-15-2017, 05:50 PM   #1155
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That table is BEAUTIFUL!!!
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Old 04-16-2017, 09:27 AM   #1156
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Refinished the dinette table in our Forza with MinWax Helmsman Gloss Urethane, sanded, compounded, polished, waxed...
Wow - sunglasses at night!
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Old 04-16-2017, 10:39 AM   #1157
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This was an answer to a post in another forum. As this was a modification, I thought I would mention it here. Our sliding tray is of a name brand manufacturer that has a max load rating of 100 or 125 pounds (not sure which one). That's pretty much a joke, our gear far exceeds that! Needless to say, ours flexed (a lot)! So, I bought some angle iron and 16" long rollers. I mounted the rollers between the two angle iron brackets (secured to the floor beneath tray). I used 4 rollers which gave good support along the length of the slide tray. The slide tray no longer sags and is much easier to slide in and out.


I like this idea. I've a habit of putting too much weight on my two pullouts and wondered what to do. My problem with weight is that I like a clean coach so anything not needed 'today' I prefer to put underneath (and it lowers my center of gravity, or so I think. LOL). A clean coach means more inviting area for new friends we meet along the way.
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Old 04-16-2017, 10:40 AM   #1158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memtb View Post
This was an answer to a post in another forum. As this was a modification, I thought I would mention it here. Our sliding tray is of a name brand manufacturer that has a max load rating of 100 or 125 pounds (not sure which one). That's pretty much a joke, our gear far exceeds that! Needless to say, ours flexed (a lot)! So, I bought some angle iron and 16" long rollers. I mounted the rollers between the two angle iron brackets (secured to the floor beneath tray). I used 4 rollers which gave good support along the length of the slide tray. The slide tray no longer sags and is much easier to slide in and out.


Do you have any photos?
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Old 04-16-2017, 10:50 AM   #1159
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GTobey, a fantastic job on that table. How long did it take, and could you run through the steps in detail? It looks like glass! I would love to accomplish that, but I fear I wouldn't be able to keep dust etc out of each application, during application. How did you do it?

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Old 04-16-2017, 04:19 PM   #1160
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Originally Posted by 4x4dually View Post
My latest mod is ramp to get my ATV over the tool box and off the tailgate.....so I can remove the tailate....so I can take the ATV and the bumper pull travel trailer. Dad-gum shortbed son-of-a- *#$&$&

Last night I raised it up off the tool box. Tonight, I'll add some expanded metal for tractions and some safety tie down points and paint.
pretty neat good job
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Old 04-16-2017, 08:40 PM   #1161
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That table is BEAUTIFUL!!!
Thanks, it was a labor of love, so that the wife will love the RV!
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Old 04-16-2017, 10:17 PM   #1162
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My steps to refinish the table

Quote:
Originally Posted by Electra 225 View Post
GTobey, a fantastic job on that table. How long did it take, and could you run through the steps in detail? It looks like glass! I would love to accomplish that, but I fear I wouldn't be able to keep dust etc out of each application, during application. How did you do it?

W.D.
Sure, I'd be happy to. I know there probably are better ways to do it, but here's what I did:

1. Removed the table top, and set it up on my Black & Decker Workmate. Used Formby 0000 steel wool, and roughed the surface and edges of the table until the satin finish had turned into a smooth sanded finish.

2. Took a tack rag and cleaned the table thoroughly. Sprayed 3 coats of Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane Clear Gloss, waiting an hour and a half in between coats. Took 2.5 cans to coat it thoroughly.

3. Let the urethane dry a week in my garage. Sadly, I did not have a paint booth, so I ended up with a considerable amount of dust in the finish. But, no worries, I was going to smooth them out in the sanding process, as well as removing any "orange peel" and imperfections from using the rattle cans!

4.Started with the 3M Sandblaster Pro sanding block, and 800 grit wet or dry paper. I used it with plenty of water to prevent the urethane from filling the sandpaper and rendering it useless. Sanded evenly with the grain until there was no more dust or bugs or any other imperfections visible. Rinsed the top and dried it with a towel, for inspection under a bright light.

5. Wet sanded again with 1500 grit paper and the sanding block. It was really beginning to have a bit of a sheen although it was cloudy looking. Rinsed and dried to inspect the evenness of the sanding job.

6. Wet sanded the top of the table with the 3000 grit paper, rinsed, dried, and inspected. the urethane was evenly sanded, flat, and very, very smooth.

7. Used Meguair's #1 Medium Cut Cleaner and my Snap-On Professionalu 7" buffer with a foam compounding pad. The table top really began to take on a polished appearance after just a few passes with the buffer.

8. Used Meguair's #3 Machine Glaze to further deepen and enhance the finish. Applied with the Snap-On Buffer and a white polishing pad. The shine and depth of finish was getting awesome.

9. My go-to product to remove any left over swirl marks or slight imperfections is Meguair's #7 Show Car Glaze. I switched to my Porter Cable random orbital buffer and used a polishing pad to apply the glaze. I removed it with a microfiber towel. Now it looked like it was totally wet or had a coat of plastic epoxy poured over it.

10. To seal it in, I applied Meguair's Ultimate Liquid Wax. I polished it in with a clean microfiber towel, and there it was, shined and protected.

Total time:
Last Saturday, about an hour to steel wool the top, and about 1 hour total to spray the 3 coats of spar urethane on the table. So 4 hours last week

This Saturday, about 3 hours to sand and buff out the table. So total time this week including re-installation of the table was about 4 hours.

Overall total time spent, roughly 8 hours.
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