Community Forums

ctpres · 01-07-2012, 03:09 PM

The storage space under our bed is smaller than the bed itself so there is great storage space around the overhang. I bought a canvas wall hanging shoe rack with four rows and two pair on each row. Cut off bottom three rows right at edge of next row. This gave me about an inch of material to fold over a thin piece of wood and then screw to side under bed. Hopefully picture does better than words. Note: white object on left is a large first aid kit attached to space under foot of bed. With bed made-up none of this is visible to guests. Two more rows installed inside under bed storage (note: vertical shoe storage here allows bedding and other stuff to be stored/piled next to shoes; yet we can still see top of shoes to remove the ones we want.) The fourth row mounts on hooks by entry door so it can be removed for travel and guests.

TAZ · 01-07-2012, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres

A bit of Rube Goldberg fun here and great conversation piece. I can honestly say we have a crappy screen door! I have seen and read about many different ways to open screen door without moving the slider and picked this one just for fun factor.
Some toilet flush knobs come with a built in return spring - I just gave up looking. You can also buy some kits that do the same thing, ready to install. Camping world sells one - but you need to lift handle to open and I wanted the more intuitive down action to open.
This is 2fer mod - you get two in one. Screw for top of return spring is part of inside knob which is often easier to gab when closing the door. The only time consuming part of this Mod is fashioning the wooden spacer between flush handle and slider which is needed to move flush knob assembly in far enough to clear obstructions when opening the slider fully.

That is the best mod yet. I have been trying to come up with a design of my own but this is the most creative idea I have seen. I am gong to lowes tomorrow. Too bad I just replaced a toilet in the house and threw the old one out just last week.

ctpres · 01-07-2012, 04:30 PM

Our “entry level” (that means cheapest one in the line) coach came with 30 amp power cord hardwired in rear basement. To setup camp I had to feed cable thru hatch in compartment door hand-over-hand. Not to bad by itself - but every time I wanted something in that bay the cable made access more difficult than necessary. Also in the same bay was the cable TV connection so more often than not two wires to deal with. Also the cable hatch with or without wire in it was a great bug path to the inside storage. I cut 30 amp cord leaving four feet attached and feed end back into an interior cable run and then to back end of new Marinco connector on outside wall. Cable TV coax went a little different route but was long enough to end up where I wanted it on outside wall without a problem. End result: bug hole gone, easy access to basement, a couple minutes knocked off camp setup and take down time AND a happier camper.

ctpres · 01-10-2012, 03:27 PM

Learned a lot about sliding doors today.
We often travel with hall sliding door closed to reduce heated/air conditioned space up front. Problem was door rattled. Wanted to put felt bumpers at top and bottom where door touched wall when closed but door did not close flush with the wall. Door is suspended from track by two adjustable hangers - all that is needed to align door with wall is shorten or lengthen one as needed. Our door is easily removed by rotating a plastic latch that secures the adjustable hanger. A Nylon guide at bottom is also adjustable to supply friction and prevent door from moving on it’s own. One more adjustment available - the latch plate. I started to file the plate to touchup alignment and noticed the plate could be inverted. Hole not centered and could be raised or lowered simply by removing and rotating. Finally got to add the felt pads. Now door closes and latches with a gentle push and felt pads prevent more rattles. Pictures on request.

LadyFitz... · 01-10-2012, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres

Learned a lot about sliding doors today...Pictures on request.

Pictures requested.

ctpres · 01-10-2012, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LadyFitz...

Pictures requested.

Pictures for Mod post #116 follow
First pic is door carrier assembly showing hex adjusting nut, top of this nut is attached to trolley/roller assembly riding in ceiling mounted track. Rotating plastic retainer and domed housing are attached to top of door. Flared lower end of adjusting nut slips into opening in end of dome and is held there by the white rotating retainer/lock .
Second pic is wall mounted latch plate. Look closely and you can see hole is not centered vertically.
Third picture shows felt pad I installed on bottom of door and nylon anti rattle/friction assembly. Tension/friction on door is increased by turning the two screws in.
Fourth pic is retractable latch housing showing hook/latch extended on right side.

ctpres · 01-11-2012, 10:26 AM

Hard part done at factory - video and power outlets in good corner. But wallboard way to thin for secure mount and traveling with TV in place. Had to find studs. Removed coax wall plate and poked around with piece of stiff wire. Looked like one inch thick or less studs only on sides. To locate for sure used very small bit and drilled at both sides till sure were edge of studs were. On both sides corner trim almost covered stud so my mounting board had to overlap trim and screws had to go in at an angle to get behind trim - didn’t want to take chance that screws would split trim and make a real mess. Works great and many miles traveled without removing TV. Reccomend mounting TV high in corner so it does not get in the way and makes for easier viewing laying down. The sleep timer was a great invention.

1stCougar · 01-11-2012, 11:07 AM

ctpres you sure have some good ideas glad to
see you share, I'm working on a couple will
post next week.
Lets go everyone show your mods it's Winter
we all need something to do to our rv's

ctpres · 01-11-2012, 11:27 AM

Yes somebody did ask.
I might not always save money with some mod’s - but let’s face it having ideas, building them and then enjoying them is an great way to pass retirement time. Have been reading RV projects, listening to problems, accumulating ideas and making changes for three over years and decided it was time to share. I do not take credit for most of them and seldom could name the source. Often I think there is a fine line between a MODification, a hint, time saver or new use for some gadget. But hey who really cares? I believe any idea should be presented. Maybe it’s not quite right but others can improve on it. So don’t let me be the only one posting here. BTW I have over twenty more completed mod’s to go and almost forty on paper. As I get bored I will post until I run out of my picture storage allotment or mod‘s.

ctpres · 01-11-2012, 02:28 PM

PVC flag poles have been around for some time. So I guess this would be a “Value Added Idea.” If you haven’t built one yet - it’s easy, I‘ll throw that in. Material: one ten foot piece of ¾ or 1 inch schedule 40 white PVC pipe (I made one of each and there is little difference,) one tee, one 45, two end caps, a ¼ bolt long enough to go thru the side of the tee with room for a nut on exposed end, PVC cement, two foot piece of 3/8 rebar or any other material suitable as post that can be repeatedly driven into the ground and fits inside of the PVC, a washer or piece of wood with ½ inch hole and two cup hooks or eye bolts. Cut two one foot pieces cut off and the rest in half. Glue one long and short piece together with the tee in between and cap on each end. Glue the other long and short pieces together with the 45 in between. Push short end of 45 leg into tee (do not use cement) adjust connection till whole assembly lays flat on floor and drill ¼ inch hole in side of fitted connection for the bolt which holds both pieces together while in use and allows disassembly of the two long sections for easier storage. Eye bolts or cup hooks spaced according to your flag grommets on the long end of the part with tee connector. If using eye bolts drill slightly smaller hole and simply thread bolt thru pipe. Drive post in ground, drop washer over post and set assembled flag pole on post. Leave enough room around post so pole with flag on can freely rotate full circle. And finally my contribution. I used 3/8 rebar, chamfered one end and put blunt point on the other end. then added two foot long ½ inch piece of EMT over rebar like a bearing to reduce friction and improve rotation. I also drilled hole thru side of leg at bottom. When putting things away I just stick rebar and conduit in leg and use bolt with nut to keep it there. Our US and Texas flags fly proudly at just about every campground. Once in a great while stakes/flags not permitted due to possible damage to underground utilities

LadyFitz... · 01-11-2012, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres

Pictures for Mod post #116 follow
First pic is door carrier assembly showing hex adjusting nut, top of this nut is attached to trolley/roller assembly riding in ceiling mounted track. Rotating plastic retainer and domed housing are attached to top of door. Flared lower end of adjusting nut slips into opening in end of dome and is held there by the white rotating retainer/lock .
Second pic is wall mounted latch plate. Look closely and you can see hole is not centered vertically.
Third picture shows felt pad I installed on bottom of door and nylon anti rattle/friction assembly. Tension/friction on door is increased by turning the two screws in.
Fourth pic is retractable latch housing showing hook/latch extended on right side.

Thanks for the photos! That was 4,000 words worth.

LadyFitz... · 01-11-2012, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres

Hard part done at factory - video and power outlets in good corner. But wallboard way to thin for secure mount and traveling with TV in place. Had to find studs. Removed coax wall plate and poked around with piece of stiff wire. Looked like one inch thick or less studs only on sides. To locate for sure used very small bit and drilled at both sides till sure were edge of studs were. On both sides corner trim almost covered stud so my mounting board had to overlap trim and screws had to go in at an angle to get behind trim - didn’t want to take chance that screws would split trim and make a real mess. Works great and many miles traveled without removing TV. Reccomend mounting TV high in corner so it does not get in the way and makes for easier viewing laying down. The sleep timer was a great invention.

Nice looking job! Did you make the board or is that a drawer front (if so, clever!)?

LadyFitz... · 01-11-2012, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres

...I might not always save money with some mod’s...

Saving money doesn't have to be the only motivation for a mod. Often, doing your own mod is the only way to get what you want the way you want. Thanks for sharing!

ctpres · 01-11-2012, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LadyFitz...

Nice looking job! Did you make the board or is that a drawer front (if so, clever!)?

Sorry not clever. Plain ole white pine with routed edges and table saw notching on back side to clear trim. Stained and finished with my favorite tung oil based varnish. Some day will find wood plugs to finish off the screw holes. The "to finish" list just keeps getting longer.