Community Forums

panthercity · 03-22-2018, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cicsprd

hello all i replace the comode clothes,and the sink on kitchen
on my allegro 32 BA 2007

sorry on my english

this is the link

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...htTVdoY2ZTcGxB

Looks nice.
By the way, your English is MUCH better than my French.

rewillia · 03-29-2018, 12:39 AM

Having grown tired of wiping up drips and drops in the wet bay, a result of having pinched my discharge hose or simply handling the hose inside of the compartment, I chose to "Hard Pipe" my Thetford-Sanicon Turbo discharge line to the exterior/underside of my coach using Banjo Cam Lever fittings along with the addition of a 1-1/2" Valterra Slip Gate Valve.

With this configuration, I am also able to easily add a 2nd section of the 21' reach Sanicon 1-1/2" ID discharge hose when needed using attached M/F Cam Lever couplers whereby providing extended reach up to 42' and do not require the use of a sewer hose support.

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tmw188 · 03-29-2018, 03:52 PM

That is a nice job for sure[emoji106]

Electra 225 · 03-29-2018, 05:10 PM

That's a darn good idea! I have one of those banjo valves around here, think I might copy you. Thanks for sharing, nice job!

W.D.

Sportech · 06-18-2018, 06:05 PM

The 11 year old Dometic NDA 1402 refrigerator was giving me trouble while in Florida last season and I didn't want to invest any more $ for something that didn't cool the way I wanted it to. The recommended residential replacement for my coach was the Fisher Paykel (33" wide and 17 cu ft) or the Samsung (to tall at 71") I have the rear furnace under the frig so the Samsung was defiantly out. The FP has very deep doors and being in the hallway to the bedroom, they reduced the width at critical point, not to mention the $2100 cost. And DW didn't like the french door design. Research led to the Whirlpool counter depth 20.6 Cu Ft that was 36" wide (I have a 33" wide hole) and rated at 4.5 stars. I was able to lower the floor over the furnace 2", take 1" out of the right side of the cabinet and 2 out of left side of the cabinet. To top it off, the hinges on the side by side doors allowed it to be pushed 2 1/4" farther into the cabinet hole because of the extra depth required by the Dometic frig (27" instead of the normal 24"). So in the end we have 6.6 Cu Ft more space, 0* in the freezer, 35* (set point) in the frig side while experiencing 94* ambient temps. The downside was that it was a lot of work (what was I thinking?). I ended up at the doctors office to have my elbow drained, probably because of the 2 gallons of caulking Fleetwood used to seal up the cabinet for the propane unit. I guess I might be getting to old for this stuff.

I hope the washer/dryer installation goes a little smoother!

Dave
07 Revolution 40E

ronspradley · 06-18-2018, 06:20 PM

That looks great Dave.

ronspradley

Gordon Dewald · 06-19-2018, 08:08 AM

Nice job on the fridge replacement.

leca1959 · 07-20-2018, 07:27 AM

Hi all, I'm new to this, and I hope I'm posting this in the right place. If I'm not, you can tell me where to go, just tell me in such a way that makes me look forward to the trip. LOL!

Anyway, here's my dilemma. I cannot afford a rig with a Freightliner chassis, not even used. It's just out of my budget at this time. However, I would like to find a rig that I can afford, used of course, that has a chassis that can handle the weight of a hydralift which weighs between 400-500 pounds and my motorcycle which weighs almost 800 pounds.

I found this Jayco Seneca 36 MS and I really like it so far. It has the Kodiak C 5500 chassis. I am trying my best to find out if this chassis can handle what I want to do. I have gotten so many different opinions, but I don't own that rig yet and it's not even in the same state I am in. How do I find out if it can handle what I want to do? I even called the manufacturer, but they can't say for sure because they say they don't know what all has been put on the chassis, that they only manufacturer the chassis and the manufacturer of the RV would be the one to tell me if it could handle a motorcycle lift and motorcycle. So I call the RV manufacturer, they refer me to a welder. But the welder couldn't tell me anything unless he can look at the rig itself.

Omg, close to giving up. Then I found this forum, and here I am! Is there anyone who can help me figure this out? I sure would appreciate it! I am in my fifth year full time, started out with a 40-foot fifth wheel toy hauler and that worked great in Texas and New Mexico, not so much in the mountains of Colorado. I boondock about 98% of the time, so I decided to downsize. I now have a 27-foot Class C and I haul a 7 x 14 box trailer for my motorcycle and tools and such. It would be great to not have to take the trailer if I don't want to.

The link I am posting below is for the specs for the Jayco Seneca 36 MS, in case that information might be helpful.

Hopefully, someone can give me some advice or steer me in a better to help me get an answer to this question.

Thank you all so much! Happy trails to all!

https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/2008-jayco-seneca-class-c-floorplan-36-ms-tr3934

Jeff6146 · 07-20-2018, 07:30 AM

Just a thought, I’ve had to leave mine home until I found a heck of a deal on an enclosed trailer to pull behind mine. Good luck, safe travels.

panthercity · 07-20-2018, 12:38 PM

leca1959,
The GVWR is 22,000. I'd contact the seller and ask them to weigh the actual rig with water and fuel tanks full. Subtract that weight from the 22k and the difference is what you can add in personal items and bike/tools. Keep in mind, if you plan to cantilever the bike/tools off the rear, you'll need to allow for the leverage exerted on the rear suspension.

Gordon Dewald · 07-21-2018, 09:15 AM

IMO putting that much weight behind the end of the chassis will be close to the limit if not over.

To determine the effect of the additional weight on the chassis you need to find the length from the rear axle to the approximate center of the lift. Multiply that distance by the 1200 lbs of the bike and lift and divide by the wheelbase. This is approximately how much you will be unloading the front and adding to the rear. The number you get will be added to the 1200 lbs and that number is the amount you will be adding to the rear axle.

If I had to guess you will be over the RAWR. But the actual numbers will tell. This does not include any additional materials a welder might have to use to strengthen the frame to enable mounting the hydra lift.

theBeav · 08-08-2018, 10:28 AM

I'm considering installing a mount for my laptop to use the silverleaf system. I also want to mount a Garmin 770.

Anyone know of a good source for mounting brackets, hopefully with decent vibration handling capabilities?

Logan Oregon · 08-08-2018, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theBeav

I'm considering installing a mount for my laptop to use the silverleaf system. I also want to mount a Garmin 770.

Anyone know of a good source for mounting brackets, hopefully with decent vibration handling capabilities?

I used this to mount my Silverleaf loaded tablet. I mounted it to the cabinet above and it hangs down. Comes with a mounting bracket to attach to the cabinet.

https://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-iKros...p+tablet+mount

Paladin718 · 08-31-2018, 08:44 PM

While we haven't bought a MH yet, the ones we look at have the dinette which DW would want to replace with a sofa (I want recliners but.....). The most recent possibility is a 2015 Winnebago Tribute, but she may decide that a Class C would be better. The dinette is on the slide so that's where the sofa would go.
I sure would appreciate tips from anybody who has done this deed.