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Old 02-25-2014, 12:39 PM   #1
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My steps won't go in and out.

I'm having fits with the entry steps on my 2005 Fleetwood Southwind. Two trips ago the would not go out when we got to our destination. Got home and got them working. All I can figure is I must have cleaned/fixed a bad ground.

So we head out again. Steps worked fine the entire trip. Got in the driveway and D*#^M steps won't go out. So. Back underneath the bus. Power to everything but the step motor. Remove the step motor and lay it on the step (wire still attached).

Crawl out and open the door........stinkin' step motor goes full cycle open. Close door and motor goes full cycle closed. Did this several times until I noticed the neighbor looking at me and smiling like I've gone bonkers. He may be about right.

Someone tell me why step motor works while NOT mounted but does NOT work while installed.

I'm not a drinkin' man.........but.
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:09 PM   #2
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Could be going bad and why it will work intermittently under load. With the motor removed, can the steps go in and out easily?
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:13 PM   #3
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Check to make sure no one is tripping the switch on the way out the door, It took the DW and I a few times to finger out which way the darn should be, one way for travel and one way for the RV-Park and another for storage! And, Yes, you need to make sure to have some white grease around to service the moving parts and underneath where the motor is as well!, DON'T Use WD-40, anything with silicone or a light weight grease!


I hope this is of some help, if not, go up to the top of the forum and look for a file on the steps. Most coaches use the 2 or 3 step system and i think their made by one company.
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:24 PM   #4
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Try using a GOOD spray lube on all the joints under the step. Depending on the humidity where you live, you might have to lube them a couple times per year.
WD40 is not a good product for this because it evaporates quickly. Look for one that has PTFE.
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:40 PM   #5
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Get some Boeshield T-9 and spray it on every hinge, lock, etc. You won't regret it.
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:53 PM   #6
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As posted above, probably needs to be lubed ocasionally.
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Old 02-25-2014, 02:13 PM   #7
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If Turkey were attacked from the rear, you suppose Greece would help?
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Old 02-25-2014, 02:42 PM   #8
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+1 on the T9 BoShield. It was developed by Boing to protect electrical and electronic circuits from salt water. It works on almost everything.

You can spray it on and let dry. That becomes a wax like protector from rust, salt water, and all sorts of things. After spraying, wipe it off and it becomes an almost invisible shield from the elements.

Spray it on your battery terminals and they will never corrode. Spray it on your KeKee step joints and they won't bind.

I spray it on my MH/Toad wiring connections and my Air Force One air connections. Works great!

You can Google for it or find it at West Marine.

Forget WD-40 for any purpose.

Good Luck!
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Old 02-25-2014, 02:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis45 View Post
If Turkey were attacked from the rear, you suppose Greece would help?
I know this is going to get edited. I originally titled this 'My thingy won't go in and out.' But it got changed.
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Old 02-25-2014, 02:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wil01 View Post
+1 on the T9 BoShield. It was developed by Boing to protect electrical and electronic circuits from salt water. It works on almost everything.

You can spray it on and let dry. That becomes a wax like protector from rust, salt water, and all sorts of things. After spraying, wipe it off and it becomes an almost invisible shield from the elements.

Spray it on your battery terminals and they will never corrode. Spray it on your KeKee step joints and they won't bind.

I spray it on my MH/Toad wiring connections and my Air Force One air connections. Works great!

You can Google for it or find it at West Marine.

Forget WD-40 for any purpose.

Good Luck!
Wil
WD-40 is still a good penetrator, but for that purpose the best thing is PB Blaster.
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Old 02-25-2014, 02:52 PM   #11
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The logical reason the motor will run when not connected to the steps is due to a load controller. When activated the motor will run until it is all the way in or all the way out, or until it sees enough load due to friction or interference (like a curb).

As others have said with the motor off the steps they should swing freely, if they don't then find that problem. If they do then the motor controller may be faulty.

Now the big question, are you sure the motor is not running when connected to the steps. Listen to it closely, there are some crushable slug gears in the motor that when bad will not lift the steps but would run the gears when the motor is off the mount. These gears are available at any large auto supply house, the motor is a Ford window motor, late 80's Taurus, just a few dollars.


http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...mString=search

good luck
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:04 PM   #12
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O.K. Folks. First, thanks for the replies. All the mechanicals are O.K. Properyly lubed and operating.

Now. I found the problem is when the door is moved to open the motor is trying to do the 'step retract cycle'. The motor is running backwards of the entry door position. I held the motor in my hand and cycled the door open/closed. The motor runs opposite of what it should to extend/retract the steps. I reinstalled the motor (Leaving the step linkage disconnected) and had the wife open/close the door. The motor is running retract when she opens the door and extend when she closes the door.

Now why would an electric motor just decide on its own to operate the opposite of what it had been operating for seven years. It is like someone climbed under the bus on the way home and switched some wires. Doubt that happened.

Ya know Brock, after thinking about it for a bit, I wonder if a 'controller can go bad and cause the problem.

I gotta get this fixed. Mrs. wants her kitchen step stool back in the kitchen. Geeze. Picky-picky.
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Old 02-25-2014, 04:53 PM   #13
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Just had the SAME problem. All of my pivot points were clean a well lubed, but the motor did the same as yours. Out of frustration I replace the motor (Ford Tauras diver side motor) and the steps worked perfect. Apparently the motor was too weak under the load of the steps.
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Old 02-25-2014, 05:53 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveCal View Post
O.K. Folks. First, thanks for the replies. All the mechanicals are O.K. Properyly lubed and operating.

Now. I found the problem is when the door is moved to open the motor is trying to do the 'step retract cycle'. The motor is running backwards of the entry door position. I held the motor in my hand and cycled the door open/closed. The motor runs opposite of what it should to extend/retract the steps. I reinstalled the motor (Leaving the step linkage disconnected) and had the wife open/close the door. The motor is running retract when she opens the door and extend when she closes the door.

Now why would an electric motor just decide on its own to operate the opposite of what it had been operating for seven years. It is like someone climbed under the bus on the way home and switched some wires. Doubt that happened.

Ya know Brock, after thinking about it for a bit, I wonder if a 'controller can go bad and cause the problem.

I gotta get this fixed. Mrs. wants her kitchen step stool back in the kitchen. Geeze. Picky-picky.
Trying to wrap my head around that . I think you want to get the motor at rest in the up position and lift the step back to the motor connection. I think you are just out of sync, step position to motor position. I'll still bet on the slug gears, I assume you saw the link on my previous mail, 9 of 10 times that's the step problem. I really don't think the motor is running backwards, it's a little deceiving and confusing, been there couple of years ago.
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