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Old 09-25-2010, 09:40 PM   #15
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Sorry. Need laymans terms. I have my meter set to 200 ACV. I dont see any other such setting as you are suggesting? Maybe I am just uneducated....more than likely. So to get a good reading do I hook the RV up and then turn on the AC and such then take a reading from the main RV panel?
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Old 09-25-2010, 09:48 PM   #16
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the other possibility for seeing 166v is that you are reading the high leg of a 240v delta three phase service. its not a very common service configuration today, but was widely used years ago. the potential of the high leg (aka the "wild" leg) varies with the total applied load of the service and can easily reach 195+ volts, and yes it will fry your rv circuitry. if you can, you should get a qualified electrician to check/verify your service. the reason we have codes and licensing for electrical work is to insure safe operation and to protect persons and property from electrical hazards.
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Old 09-26-2010, 06:10 AM   #17
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I doubt that is it. This house is only 5yrs old. I do agree with you about the electrician, however, this is a simple circuit. I do show some minor damage on my multimeter. I will get a new one and check it again. I did check various outlets in the house and got around 164 to 165 on the ones that I checked.
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Old 09-26-2010, 02:35 PM   #18
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here's my setup with 115volt 20 amp,115v 30 amp,and 120/240 volt 50 amp on my garage 60 ft from the house.
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Old 09-26-2010, 03:49 PM   #19
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Question: If the wire IN the conduit is not suitable (I assume it's too small)

Can you use it to pull a larger wire through the conduit?
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Old 09-26-2010, 09:25 PM   #20
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new multimeter took care of it. now i'm getting 123v. now whats the best way to determine my voltage drop. i will have 80ft of cable. i tested at the end of 80ft cable with no drop. do hook up the rv and turn everything on and then take reading at the main panel in the rv.
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Old 09-26-2010, 09:46 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schupaul View Post
new multimeter took care of it. now i'm getting 123v. now whats the best way to determine my voltage drop. i will have 80ft of cable. i tested at the end of 80ft cable with no drop. do hook up the rv and turn everything on and then take reading at the main panel in the rv.

without the rv hooked up there is no current flow in the 80' cord therefore since voltdrop in the cord = current through the cord x resistenca of the cord there is 0 current hence 0 volt drop and you will read the applied voltage. hook up and turn every thing on and you will draw max current and the voltage you read at the rv main will be the applied voltage minus voltdrop in the cord. if voltage at the rv main is more than 5% below the applied voltage you can correct it by 1) shorter cord - apparently not an option 2) larger conductors in the cord - ie increase #10 wire to #8 3) decrease the load by turning of all non-critical loads
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:38 AM   #22
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without the rv hooked up there is no current flow in the 80' cord therefore since voltdrop in the cord = current through the cord x resistenca of the cord there is 0 current hence 0 volt drop and you will read the applied voltage. hook up and turn every thing on and you will draw max current and the voltage you read at the rv main will be the applied voltage minus voltdrop in the cord. if voltage at the rv main is more than 5% below the applied voltage you can correct it by 1) shorter cord - apparently not an option 2) larger conductors in the cord - ie increase #10 wire to #8 3) decrease the load by turning of all non-critical loads

Thanks. I thought that is what it would be but wasn't positive.
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Old 09-27-2010, 09:51 AM   #23
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new multimeter took care of it. now i'm getting 123v. now whats the best way to determine my voltage drop. i will have 80ft of cable. i tested at the end of 80ft cable with no drop. do hook up the rv and turn everything on and then take reading at the main panel in the rv.

Short answer: YES

Long answer: That is very likely the best way to do it, Measure at the breaker box with everything on, Or a plug in meter into an outlet.

The Kill-a-watt is a very useful meter.. Some functions (Frequency, Voltage) only require it be plugged in, (The rest apply only to things plugged into it)

It is rapidly becoming the lowest priced plug-in voltmeter on the market.
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Old 10-01-2010, 09:06 AM   #24
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This is a real life demonstration done today.

I have a 50 amp line running to a cottage out back. 6 guage wire 200 feet to the cottage panel. Today I have 121.1 at the house and walked to the cottage and the reading was what I expected 121.1. Turned on the clothes dryer which is on 30 amp 220 volts circuit while the digital meter was plugged in at 120 volt outlet supplying washing machine. The reading while running the dryer was 116.7 volts.

Starting voltage at the house is low. Too many homes on one transformer. Starting voltage without anything running should be 125v.

Your voltage drop only occurs while you are pulling a load. The higher the load the lower the voltage will be.

I would have a new circuit run to the original location with 6 guage wire.
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