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Old 01-14-2019, 07:33 PM   #15
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If its made like my 510+ it could be as simple as tightening the screw clamp on the bowl,it will pull the bowl down tighter on the ball.Clean the seal and coat with plumbers silicone.
I replaced the seal and ball valve last summer, then it stopped holding water. Removing the band and clamps, then repositioning the seal and replacing the clamps and band stopped the leak. I don't think I had the band tight enough is what caused the seal to slip.
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Old 01-14-2019, 08:22 PM   #16
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Itís possible for the ball valve to be partially dislodged. If that is the case you may be able to reach in and pop it back in place (gloves recommended but optional).
We had this problem. I didn't find out until I took the toilet apart to replace the seal. Being that I had it apart, I changed the seal and re-set the ball. And yes, use gloves
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Old 01-16-2019, 02:11 PM   #17
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It never completely stopped leaking past the seal, so bought some gloves and REALLY got into it. Seems MUCH easier to work on when you aren't gagging...


Pulled out the seal, wiped off excess grease, reinstalled the seal, pressed the edges downward into the tube all around the seal, closed the ball valve then poured hot tap water in it about halfway to a full bowl. It stayed half-full for about half an hour. So I think it is correctly fixed now.



Purchased another seal in case it stops holding water, or for future use if this starts to leak again.
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Old 01-17-2019, 08:44 AM   #18
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Dielectric grease is water resistant. Also keeps rubber soft. Coat all surfaces when replacing seal. I clean older seals with a Stanley knife to remove buildup and coat with this grease. I've used the same seal many times. Keep spares on hand in a seal bag.
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Old 01-19-2019, 08:23 AM   #19
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I bought another seal, before I fixed the one that is installed. So I have a spare on hand now.
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Old 06-19-2019, 03:09 AM   #20
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You know , it was weird . It worked for two pushes on the pedal and then back to the flush ball not opening. i replaced the seals, cleaned the ball , replaced the spring cartridge., checked the pedal for compromises. I have a flush ball that is my next try. I can't find a video on it anywhere though. Thanks for replying , I am not a mechanically inclined woman, so all help is appreciated.
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:18 AM   #21
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I too had a leaky toilet and replaced the seal and ball valve. Still leaked! Found the plastic mechanisms would bind up a little and not let the ball valve close completely. Put some of that plumber putty I used on the seal onto all the plastic parts and it made for smooth operation. All that leaks may not just be the seal. Ensure your plastic mechanism is smooth and non- binding!
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:20 AM   #22
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I too had a leaky toilet and replaced the seal and ball valve. Still leaked! Found the plastic mechanisms would bind up a little and not let the ball valve close completely. Put some of that plumber putty I used on the seal onto all the plastic parts and it made for smooth operation. All that leaks may not just be the seal. Ensure your plastic mechanism is smooth and non- binding!
I used plumber grade NOT putty
Don't hate me!
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:20 AM   #23
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Grease! I hate auto correct!
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Old 06-19-2019, 05:01 PM   #24
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I also have the Dometic that leaks. It's barely a year old. I just happened to still have the manual and to my surprise their suggestions actually works. (At least for our occasional weekend trips)

The instructions said to pour hot water into the bowl and let it sit. Add more if it leaks. Let it sit for around five minutes. I heated in the microwave to get it extremely hot. After five minutes use gloves and apply downward pressure on the seal. This is now my ritual before every departure.

I've been on the search to see if anyone makes just a slightly larger seal. I haven't had any luck.
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