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Old 09-26-2011, 06:20 AM   #15
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chucksin,

In my opinion- you may have something in the house or your rig that is not polarized correctly. (Hot and neutral reversed). If you are not having issues while connected to shore power in the campground then the problem is likely the circuit in the house. You can verify each by using a volt ohm meter and by putting the red lead into the hot (small slot), then the black neutral into the ground slot. If you get normal house voltage- your polarity is correct. If you put the black into the neutral slot and red into ground, then it is reversed (or you actually have ground and hot mixed up and this is not likely). A cheap polarity checker will do all this automatically and much quicker. On a side note- make sure you have everything in the rig off before you plug in the shore power cord...otherwise you'll get arcing and the prongs on the cord will pit and get black.
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Old 09-26-2011, 06:45 AM   #16
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One item you have overlooked is to reset your inverter/converter to the amp rating of the outlet your shore power is hooked up to. In this case 15 amps. Otherwise, the converter attempts to draw too many amps to drive the 12 volt DC items in your coach AND keep the batteries charged too.

Of course, the very first thing you need to do is turn off everything that is currently on and possibly drawing amps. Then once you have established shore power, and know how many amps the converter is drawing, you will know how many amps you have leftover to use sparingly.

If you draw too many amps the garage circuit breaker will trip.

Only my opinion.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:37 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramblin

I don't think so. He says the breaker is popping. GFI problems don't typically pop breakers if a GFI outlet is in the circuit.

Jim
Ramblin, My thought was that the breaker was GFI as many new homes have them. But my question to the OP is was the unit plugged in when you went to look at it? If it was working then it more than likely points to your home wiring, or something as simple as a bad extension cord??
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:46 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
One item you have overlooked is to reset your inverter/converter to the amp rating of the outlet your shore power is hooked up to. In this case 15 amps. Otherwise, the converter attempts to draw too many amps to drive the 12 volt DC items in your coach AND keep the batteries charged too.

Of course, the very first thing you need to do is turn off everything that is currently on and possibly drawing amps. Then once you have established shore power, and know how many amps the converter is drawing, you will know how many amps you have leftover to use sparingly.

If you draw too many amps the garage circuit breaker will trip.

Only my opinion.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Good point. EMS senses input between 30 and 50 Amps, but you need to manually tell it 15 or 20. MIne will only let me select 20 in manual mode.
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:48 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Doghauler View Post
Ramblin, My thought was that the breaker was GFI as many new homes have them. But my question to the OP is was the unit plugged in when you went to look at it? If it was working then it more than likely points to your home wiring, or something as simple as a bad extension cord??
Not sure GFI would cause this unless refer is cycling too often. I have my MH connect to a 20 amp GFCI circuit to power the battery charger, refer and shop light. Never trips inless I plug something else into that circuit.
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Old 09-26-2011, 01:16 PM   #20
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lots of good input, what every you do be safe and injoy.
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:04 PM   #21
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Thanks everyone for the replies. I tried making sure everything was turned off but the breaker still popped. I haven't tried the other tips yet as I was busy (successfully, believe it or not) replacing the main analog television with a new 32-inch flat screen in preparation for a college football road trip in two weeks. Can someone tell me how to reset the inverter/converter? I'm lost on that one, but that sounds like a good option. I'm also going to try a non GFI outlet tomorrow - if I can find one close by.

One final question (for now), the unit has not been used this summer so it still has not been prepped for the "season" that is now about over in Ohio. Can I just run fresh water through the system to clean it out or do I need to take it to a dealer. I'm having an in-motion satellite dish installed Friday, so I can ask the dealer to do it then if they have time. Thanks again everyone. It sure is great to have a bunch of experienced RVers out there who don't mind offering assistance.

Chuck
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:04 AM   #22
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Just a thought, how long is the extension cord your are using, may be seeing too much line drop over the distance and what gauge is the wire. As already stated I am running my fridge off a 20 amp circuit in my garage along with shop light and charger. I use a 25' cord made from 8 gauge wire. Where in Ohio, if close to Middletown, maybe I can help. I'm leaving Alaska on the 28th to take the MH to Ohio for the winter.
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:54 AM   #23
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Thanks for the note and the offer, Dennis. You might be onto something with the extension cord. It's a longer one - at least 50 feet - that I purchased at Lowes for the RV. And it's a pretty heavy gauge, but I'll have to check that specifically. I'm not very close to Middletown. Actually just southeast of Cleveland in Kent. Coming to Ohio for the winter? I like that. The harshness of winter is all relative. Hopefully I'll have it all figured out before you get back in this neck of the woods anyway. Thanks again. Chuck
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:58 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by chucksin View Post
Thanks for the note and the offer, Dennis. You might be onto something with the extension cord. It's a longer one - at least 50 feet - that I purchased at Lowes for the RV. And it's a pretty heavy gauge, but I'll have to check that specifically. I'm not very close to Middletown. Actually just southeast of Cleveland in Kent. Coming to Ohio for the winter? I like that. The harshness of winter is all relative. Hopefully I'll have it all figured out before you get back in this neck of the woods anyway. Thanks again. Chuck
I know Kent well, used to run one of our offices in Twinsburg.

I don't camp in Ohio in the winter. It's my home base. I live in Ohio but work in Alaska. We work 3 weeks on the off for 3 weeks. During those off weeks we head out of Ohio for points south.

Ohio winters are considerably milder by comparison but still too cold for for the DW.

Good luck with your electrical issue.
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:03 AM   #25
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[
I'm having an in-motion satellite dish installed Friday, so I can ask the dealer to do it then if they have time. Thanks again everyone. It sure is great to have a bunch of experienced RVers out there who don't mind offering assistance.

Chuck[/QUOTE]

Have the electric hookup checked at the dealer while you are there for the satellite dish. That will tell you whether the problem is with your stick home or with the MH....................ronspradley
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:31 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucksin View Post
One final question (for now), the unit has not been used this summer so it still has not been prepped for the "season" that is now about over in Ohio. Can I just run fresh water through the system to clean it out or do I need to take it to a dealer. I'm having an in-motion satellite dish installed Friday, so I can ask the dealer to do it then if they have time. Thanks again everyone. It sure is great to have a bunch of experienced RVers out there who don't mind offering assistance.

Chuck
Here is what I would suggest for the fresh water tank
1. drain it completely now. No telling how long that water has been in there.
2. close all the drains and run a little fresh water back through the system. My goal for this step would be to try to flush out anything that has been building up. I would open all of the taps, one at a time and let a little water run through.
3. drain the system again completely
4. put in Clorox at a rate of 1/4 cup per 15 gallons and then fill the tank and leave it sit at least an hour. I prefer a couple of hours. To add the Clorox, you just make sure that the hose is drained and then elevate one end of it, pouring the Clorox in before reconnecting the hose. This is more easily done if you are using a couple of hoses and simply separate them at the joint.
5. Drain the system. Because I don't like the smell of Clorox in my water, I run a little fresh water through afterwards to help to flush that smell out. It doesn't hurt anything, however,
6. Fill your water tank to the level you want to travel with. Remember that water weighs 8 pounds per gallon so a 30 gallon tank full is adding 240 pounds to your carrying weight. We have a 60 gallon tank and usually keep it between 1/3 and 1/2 full unless we know that we will not have a water hookup.

I'm betting that your electrical problem is a problem with the house outlet and too long of a too small extension cord. If you are considering keeping this kind of a hookup, I'd recommend spending the money and buying a good contractor grade (12/2) extension. They are normally yellow colored. We got caught on our last long trip with a propane failure in our refrigerator. I paid $70 for a 100' 12/2 cord but it ran the 'fridge fine and could handle the inverter for the lights, too, while we were parked for several days.
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:52 PM   #27
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Thanks for the info on the water tanks. I will do that tomorrow. Regarding the extension cord, it is a 12/2 construction grade (yellow) cord, but it is 100 feet which may be too long for what I can get out of my GFI outlets. I'm going to try a different, shorter cord, to see what happens. If that works, I'll go purchase a 50 foot construction grade cord.
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:58 PM   #28
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My advice would be to go for a 10/2 cord....any color you want!
And keep the distance as short as possible.
Sounds like you're also crossing multiple plug adapters getting from your rig to the 110v outlet-
There's power loss at those points, too.

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