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Old 08-30-2016, 01:19 PM   #1
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No chassis Power

Hi, my Itasca has an On Start power meter for house and chassis voltage. House power is fine but no chassis power so slide outs don't work.

I checked the fuses and circuit breakers. Look OK to me. I don't think I'm getting any power to the circuit breakers. I hard wired the breaker for the slide out and no go. Ran generator then park hook up but no chassis power.

What happened that started all this was the house batteries were not maintained and Burnt out. I installed all new chassis and house batteries.

Im a new guy and could use some advice. I'm sure I missed something...

Thank you... and thanks for adding me.
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Old 08-30-2016, 04:07 PM   #2
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This may be a good place to start. The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1) After you have studied this you can go to Part 2 and learn even more.
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Old 08-31-2016, 08:50 AM   #3
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I'm 67 years old. I don't need RV fixing as a hobby. Just help getting it fixed.
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Old 08-31-2016, 09:56 AM   #4
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I am 69 years old and you need a bit of education or a RV service tech. Your description crosses both 12 volt and 120 volt systems and coach and chassis. We can only help if you can describe in correct terms. Did the slides work correctly before your battery problem? Are the house batteries turned on? Are the emergency brakes set? Are you sure the new batteries installed correctly? This is the reason for the first post. Is your coach A or C?

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Old 08-31-2016, 10:04 AM   #5
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Did you check your Chassis battery disconnect switch to ensure it is switched on ? (usually by your entrance door)
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Old 08-31-2016, 10:24 AM   #6
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Chucks; I'm sorry to say this but I have to agree with Len.
You've already started maintaining your RV as a hobby , by replacing the batteries.
Unfortunately , we're not there beside you , so in order to help we need an accurate description of what's happening.

Did you label ALL the cables that you removed from the batteries ?
Gone back and double checked that you got all the cables connected?
Do you own a multi-meter to check voltages?

Fuses and circuit breakers " look good " isn't good enough ; they have to be tested for power, in and out.

My chassis has a 135 amp fuse to protest the power cable from the batteries to the dash , even a momentary incorrect connection of the battery cables could blow that fuse.

EDIT: Could you add the year of your RV and the chassis manufacturer to your posts. Please. The more info you can give , the better the info you'll get in return.
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Old 08-31-2016, 11:04 AM   #7
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Just a little correction!

The Chassis=start, motor, dashboad, headlights, clearance lights.
Coach/house=house lights,water pump, 12 volt service to the upper house systems.

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Old 09-01-2016, 04:33 AM   #8
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You don't know what I need.
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Old 09-01-2016, 07:25 AM   #9
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I think I do. An attitude adjustment.
You have several people here trying to help and you come back with nothing we ask.
You are correct "we don't know what you need".
That is why we asked questions and tried for clarification, SO WE CAN PROVIDE THE HELP YOU ASKED FOR!

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Old 09-02-2016, 05:32 AM   #10
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This my understanding....

I have a 2011 Winnebago Itasca Cambria. Like most RVs it has a battery disconnect switch which is connected to a relay that clicks when connected
to the house batteries. This provides DC power thru
circuit breakers that operates the stairs and slide outs. This is not the solenoid. The solenoid charges the house batteries when engine running or connected to park current or generator on. The chassis battery, under the hood , is charged by the engine alternator only when running.

My issue is that my slide outs don't open. The stairs retract and open but will not remain open when the stair open on switch is activated. So every time door is opened or closed the stairs retract. They should remain open when the stair open switch is on.

So. The issue is not the solenoid. Batteries are charging. Checked with volt meter. With battery disconnect switch on, both sides of solenoid are 12.5 volts. Started engine, both sides 14+ volts. So chassis battery/alternator is pushing voltage to charge both house and chassis batteries.

Since slide outs don't open, the issue to me is DC power to slide out thru circuit breaker or know/unknown fuse.

Battery disconnect switch is pushing power to its relay. The relay is pushing power to the circuit breakers. Two circuit breakers (6amp) are frozen open. One is the " Battery Mode Switch" the other is "Stair Relay". The breakers to both slide outs (30amps) are closed and power flowing. I don't know if a fuse or another breaker is in the line from breaker to slide out motor.

Since I assume these 2 breakers are inop, I'm going to use a 6 amp automotive fuse to test if this is the issue until I get the breakers in the mail. Sounds like these breakers may be the issue. If not, then it on to more yellow wire research.

There is a booster switch on the dash. It tags the house batteries to provide more amps to the chassis system. It is working also.

More later. Sorry for the childish feedback, but I don't think in need a lot of training but certainly open to suggestions.
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Old 09-02-2016, 05:55 AM   #11
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This my understanding....

I have a 2011 Winnebago Itasca Cambria. Like most RVs it has a battery disconnect switch which is connected to a relay that clicks when connected
to the house batteries. This provides DC power thru
circuit breakers that operates the stairs and slide outs. This is not the solenoid. The solenoid charges the house batteries when engine running or connected to park current or generator on. The chassis battery, under the hood , is charged by the engine alternator only when running.

My issue is that my slide outs don't open. The stairs retract and open but will not remain open when the stair open on switch is activated. So every time door is opened or closed the stairs retract. They should remain open when the stair open switch is on.

So. The issue is not the solenoid. Batteries are charging. Checked with volt meter. With battery disconnect switch on, both sides of solenoid are 12.5 volts. Started engine, both sides 14+ volts. So chassis battery/alternator is pushing voltage to charge both house and chassis batteries.

Since slide outs don't open, the issue to me is DC power to slide out thru circuit breaker or know/unknown fuse.

Battery disconnect switch is pushing power to its relay. The relay is pushing power to the circuit breakers. Two circuit breakers (6amp) are frozen open. One is the " Battery Mode Switch" the other is "Stair Relay". The breakers to both slide outs (30amps) are closed and power flowing. I don't know if a fuse or another breaker is in the line from breaker to slide out motor.

Since I assume these 2 breakers are inop, I'm going to use a 6 amp automotive fuse to test if this is the issue until I get the breakers in the mail. Sounds like these breakers may be the issue. If not, then it on to more yellow wire research.

There is a booster switch on the dash. It tags the house batteries to provide more amps to the chassis system. It is working also.

More later. Sorry for the childish feedback, but I don't think in need a lot of training but certainly open to suggestions.
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Old 09-02-2016, 08:02 AM   #12
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I am still drawn to the solenoid. They do go bad quit often. The contacts inside get Burt or corroded and don't pass enough power. You seem to have more than one issue. You could also have a relay or switch problem in the emergency brake that could be preventing the slides from operating. I would start by looking at the New batteries again making sure everything is connected correctly and no wires skipped from hookup. And follow the ground wire from batteries to make sure the frame connection is clean. 12 volt draw for the slides is a major draw so if th e e is a week point you get no working.

LEN
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:21 AM   #13
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The key words in Len's post are " don't pass enough power " it takes only milli-amps to give a reading on a voltmeter, to operate your slides you need perfect connections every where in the circuit.

Can you have someone try to operate the slides while you check the voltage on the load side of the disconnect solenoid ? If the voltage drops , then you have internal contact problems in the solenoid.
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:52 AM   #14
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Solved: The stairs have 3 circuit breakers. After following continuity for each breaker, one is a direct line to the chassis battery which allows entrance when no power is on. Two retracts the stairs when engine starts. Three controls the stairs lock when extended switch. If any of the three breakers pop, they all three are affected.

I knew I was getting power to the slide out breakers. The continuity check of the breakers was positive so something was not feeding power passed the circuit board. As I mentioned, the battery mode switch circuit breaker had power coming in but no power coming out but was not popped. So I bypassed this 6 amp breaker with a 6 amp fused wire and viola! So this breaker was bad with no visual sign.

I made a light board from the breakers that I put inside the RV so I don't have to crawl around outside in the fetal position looking in the dark rear storage compartment.

Thanks for the reply...
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