Norcold frig with recall box..HELP!

[stacyhaines]

We have one of the Norcold refrigerators in our 2006 Holiday Rambler Neptune. The box has already been replaced once. All it does it shut it down anyway. I have searched the forums, but do not understand much of what I have read. We have lost so much food & can't afford a new frig. It's one of the big double door ones. Camping World is clueless & we need help. Is there any affordable fix for this unit? Anything I can tell Camping World?? It goes back in on Friday. I am concerned about leaving our 3 dogs in there also. HELP

[Dav L]

I recently purchased the ARP safety device from a forum member and have just started researching how to address the issues with RV fridges.

I am guessing your fridge is overheating (which is a significant safety issue). I would start with a physical inspection especially that the coils are clean. Take the roof cover off and a shop vac to clean it anyway. Something I will do once I get the ARP device.

The next thing to look at is to ensure all connections are solid.

I believe the recall just puts a temp switch in line with the fridge power. If that is tripping (high temp or a loose wire), then the fridge shuts off and warms up.

You might want to invest in the ARP device.
https://www.arprv.com/products.php
Note that will not fix your current problem, but is a good safety system especially if your fridge is suspect.
ARP has some basic diagnostic info on their webpage with some pics.

[photopilot]

Welcome to irv2. If you can’t afford to put in a residential fridge, or buy an Amish replacement cooling unit from JC Refrigeration, I’d at least install the ARP controller, which does a better job of monitoring the fridge. Since you’re new, I’m going to assume you might not know the fridge must be level whenever it’s running, unless you’re driving. Every time the unit is shut down because of overheating, you are doing damage and eventually it won’t work. I highly recommend the Amish unit, though it will cost more than a residential fridge.

There are loads of threads on here- look up your model number and search in the search box above

Safe travels,

Walt

[Spk64]

If your recall box is shutting down the fridge. You most likely have a failing Cooling unit which will need to be replaced. Options as others have stated.
1. Replace Cooling unit (JC Refrigeration or other Amish cooling unit)
2. Replace complete refrigerator with another Absorption refrigerator like you have. (Most expensive option)
3. Replace with a residential refrigerator.

[JJH3rd]

We went thtough the same routine witht the recall adapter from Norcold. It turned out that most of the repairmen didn't bother to read & follow the instructions (with pictures) on where to install the thermocouple (temperature sensor) on the exhaust heat flew. This can cause the sensor to go bad and that causes the shutdown.

This isn't a suggestion not to get & install the ARP device, just telling you my experience with the Norcold retrofit problem.

After gettin the sensor in the correct place, the system works fine.

[Dav L]

Originally Posted by JJH3rd

We went thtough the same routine witht the recall adapter from Norcold. It turned out that most of the repairmen didn't bother to read & follow the instructions (with pictures) on where to install the thermocouple (temperature sensor) on the exhaust heat flew. This can cause the sensor to go bad and that causes the shutdown.

This isn't a suggestion not to get & install the ARP device, just telling you my experience with the Norcold retrofit problem.

After gettin the sensor in the correct place, the system works fine.

JJ, does the temp sensor get damaged? ie: is the wrong location overheating the sensor? Without me knowing, I would have assumed the proper location is the expected hotspot. Can the old sensor just be relocated to the proper location or does it need to be replaced?

BTW, if it's a recall part...the replacement should be covered by the manufacturer (and the labor). It's up to the manufacturer to fight it out with the original installer if it was poor labor that caused the subsequent problem. That should be the official response, but in reality it's always a fight of who pays.

[Fred and Bonnie]

Fords Refrigeration has been repairing and providing information for years.

https://rvrefrigeration.com/frvrtc-refrigerator-svc

Fred

[tmw188]

Originally Posted by stacyhaines

We have one of the Norcold refrigerators in our 2006 Holiday Rambler Neptune. The box has already been replaced once. All it does it shut it down anyway. I have searched the forums, but do not understand much of what I have read. We have lost so much food & can't afford a new frig. It's one of the big double door ones. Camping World is clueless & we need help. Is there any affordable fix for this unit? Anything I can tell Camping World?? It goes back in on Friday. I am concerned about leaving our 3 dogs in there also. HELP

Has it ever performed well?
Is it in a slide?
Have you been operating off level?
Can you hear the fans running when you are outside near the vent, your unit should have twin fans and you will hear them running if standing outside near the vent. It’s normal for them to stop running when you open the door on the fridge. If you are having performance issues and verified those fans are running I would not throw $200+ at that unit. Put it toward a replacement of some type. Your at the point that many of us eventually get to for different reasons I would not go down the road of hopeful fixes and let’s try this.
Call Fords as mentioned above if he’s one of the options you like but be careful letting CW work on it.

[MSHappyCampers]

Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

It sounds like the cooling unit is on it's last legs! Don't bypass the recall box! That would be asking for a fire!

You have a choice to make. Here are some options:

1. Replace the fridge with a residential unit.

2. Replace the fridge with another RV-type absorption fridge (expensive).

3. Replace the cooling unit with an absorption-type unit from JC Refrigeration.

4. Replace the cooling unit with a compressor-type from JC Refrigeration


Have fun and keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!

[stacyhaines]

Those of you that have put in a residential fridge...are you taking the rv unit out? And if not, where are you putting the new one? And when you say residential, are you talking about one of the tiny office size units?

As far as our fridge..it works fine when it's cool outside, but when we are at the beach in summer temps, the recall box shuts it down. My husband took the outside cover off last September & set up a fan to blow in on it. It worked fine after that & did not shut down. We are thinking the cooling fans aren't working??? I just don't know what to tell Camping World. The place that was mentioned is in KY..we are in VA so that's not an option

[tmw188]

It is somewhat typical on hot days you will have more trouble keeping things cool. That fan your husband put on it is a quick and easy resolve but be sure it doesn’t affect the burner operation if you are running on propane. Try to angle the fan so the air flow goes up and it doesn’t have to be on anything other than low in my opinion. You have had good suggestions and MSHappyCampers pretty much summed it up for you.

[vito.a]

First, you should know that Norcold refrigerators are responsible for a large number of RV fires. We have IRV2 members that have had their motor home burned to the ground from a Norcold 1200 refrigerator.

Many of us have removed the Norcold 1200 and replaced it with a Samsung RF18 residential refrigerator. Home Depot and Lowes advertise the RF18 on sale for $997 with free delivery. It is an 18 CF residential refrigerator with double doors on top and a bottom freezer drawer. The primary issue with this option is physically fitting it in the same space as the Norcold. You will need an extra 5 1/2" in height, but the width and depth are very close.

Link to Norcold replacement post: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/sams...re-356096.html

A new Norcold 1200LRIM 12CF absorption refrigerator is about $3200 plus installation. I replaced two of these before I switched to a residential unit.

Another choice is to replace the cooling unit in your existing Norcold with an Amish cooling unit, or one of the new compressor cooling units. Most of these options cost from $1200-1500 plus labor.

Hope this helps.

[Old-Biscuit]

10s of 1000s of Norcold fridges are working properly and have done so for years


RV fires do occur and some can be from faulty fridge....
BUT a lot of those fridge problems that lead to fires are due to RV MFGs failures to follow Fridge MFGs 'Installation Instructions' and some are due to Owners ....off level operations/lack of routine maintenance etc




Fridge NOT maintaining proper temps in Hot weather is due to lack of proper airflow across backside of fridge.
That could be due to lack of FANS...not installed or not working
Could be due to too wide of clearances/baffles not used, dead air spaces---ventilation issues


If the fridge is in a slideout it NEEDS fans....period
Fans are controlled by a t-stat attached to condenser fin ....turns fans on when condenser fin temp reaches 135*F and off when condenser fin temp drops to 115*F
Fans provide enhanced airflow across condenser which is needed to cool the hot ammonia vapor into a cool ammonia liquid....more vapor condensed into liqiuid the more cooling capability (liquid flashes into COLD vapor when it comes in contact with the hydrogen gas.....more cold vapor/more absorption of heat from freezer and then from food compartment)

[garbonz]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

10s of 1000s of Norcold fridges are working properly and have done so for years


RV fires do occur and some can be from faulty fridge....
BUT a lot of those fridge problems that lead to fires are due to RV MFGs failures to follow Fridge MFGs 'Installation Instructions' and some are due to Owners ....off level operations/lack of routine maintenance etc




Fridge NOT maintaining proper temps in Hot weather is due to lack of proper airflow across backside of fridge.
That could be due to lack of FANS...not installed or not working
Could be due to too wide of clearances/baffles not used, dead air spaces---ventilation issues


If the fridge is in a slideout it NEEDS fans....period
Fans are controlled by a t-stat attached to condenser fin ....turns fans on when condenser fin temp reaches 135*F and off when condenser fin temp drops to 115*F
Fans provide enhanced airflow across condenser which is needed to cool the hot ammonia vapor into a cool ammonia liquid....more vapor condensed into liqiuid the more cooling capability (liquid flashes into COLD vapor when it comes in contact with the hydrogen gas.....more cold vapor/more absorption of heat from freezer and then from food compartment)

Oh boy here come the flames, you think the fridg’s are hot, wait for the responses.