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Old 04-14-2002, 11:09 PM   #1
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Which do you prefer?

As many people have probably seen, I'm a firm believer in the theory "Old is best". Cars, houses (mine was built in 1850), RV's--old is best.

Johnny
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Old 04-14-2002, 11:09 PM   #2
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Which do you prefer?

As many people have probably seen, I'm a firm believer in the theory "Old is best". Cars, houses (mine was built in 1850), RV's--old is best.

Johnny
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Old 04-15-2002, 06:15 AM   #3
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PAID OFF!!! Makes no difference if it's old or new as long as it is debt free.

Rich & Kim, Oreo too
<font color=blue>F250 Supercab</font>, <font color=#33ccff>Prowler 5ver</font>
<color=yellow>Solar, <font color=#669966>Makita Genset</font>
<font color=blue>WHR Blue Mesa Ranch,</font><font color=red> Gunnison CO</font>
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Old 04-15-2002, 09:36 AM   #4
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I prefer newer if there is a reason, for example:

V10 provides many advantages over 460
6.0l provides many advantages over 7.3l
5 speed auto provide many advantage over 4 speed
E-550 provides many advantages over E-450

I also prefer newer for reliability/repair reasons. I own an RV for family vacations and do not want to spend my time getting things fixed.

That does not mean automatically buying a brand new RV.

Mike
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Old 04-15-2002, 10:04 PM   #5
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My friend & I camp in a 25-year-old Coachman C (Dodge chassis) with 168,000 miles, towing a 22-year-old Rabbit pickup (with >350,000 miles), usually hauling 26-year-old dirt bikes or a 15-year-old quad. Our (my) generator is vintage 1968, & still works perfectly. We have a grand total of about $5500 in EVERYTHING--RV, toad, tow bar, bikes, & quad, and I'd take it to Cali in a heartbeat, with no worries. Well, I would with new tires, anyway.........

I've driven 460's (carb & EFI), I've driven both power levels of V-10. The only advantages I've noticed with a V-10 is MPG empty (mileage being a relative term for either of these) & the V-10 being quieter at full throttle--which is good, since you'll be spending plenty of time there when towing. Give me a 460, every time. No exceptions.

And I loathe automatics in general, but give me a 3-speed (Mopar 727, Ford C6, GM TH-475) with a Gear Vendors over any 4-speed (or 5-speed)--stronger, cheaper, & more gearing options.

Also, from what I've seen here, the E-550 seems to be a poor choice as a motorhome, due to the low GCWR.

Johnny
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Old 04-16-2002, 12:48 PM   #6
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OLD!!!

The really low purchase price of my rig means I will have little or no depreciation over the next many years. If I wanted I could add the Gear Vendors Over/under drive, a super charger, headers, a coat of paint, double pane windows, and any desired suspension add-ons and the cost would still be below $25,000. Otherwise everything looks and works great.

New would have cost me $75,000 or more and I would not have received all (yes, I would have received some but I still would have had to pay additional for some) of the great stuff below (this includes what I like and dislike about my rig):

1983 Sportscoach III, 33 (the Ski Haus - snow and water), 454 c.i., turbo 400, Thorley 303y, K&N filters, Air Lift air springs (w/ auto inflator), Mor-Ryde tag axle, front & rear receiver hitches with Thule ski rack and storage pod on rear receiver.

Like Most: I love this rig!!! It sleeps 4 adults and 2 kids under age 10. It came from the factory with everything you could ask for: vac, blender, ice maker (since removed and converted to shoe storage), 2 furnaces, 2 air, solid walnut cabinets, good engine and drive train with plenty of oil/tranny cooling, good interior colors and carpets (still original blue and blue gray), strong 6.5 Onan genset, water filter, 100 gal water, 60 gal gray/30 gal black waste, 100 gal fuel, steersafe, top quality construction, overall a solid rig.

The best part was the price, less than 15% of the going price of a new MH.

Like Least: The last owner let his father drive it and he hit the awning supports on something leaving three dings in the side (I repaired with automotive fiberglass resin). It also is in need of exterior paint (the colors have faded and yellowed making it look old). Old technology converter (since replaced with a 3 stage converter/charger). Minor roof leak due to gel coat breakdown (repaired same as exterior damage with new resin, now needs paint). Single pane windows. No warranty, but I think warranties are overrated anyway.

The worst part is the mileage, about 7 8 mpg. I really want 28 mpg, with full power in the mountains and if pulling a toad. Yeah right, nooooo problem.

Interior Work I Have Done Already: We have done very little. It was in, and remains in, very good shape with a modern color scheme and "street of screams" quality cabinetry. The work has been mainly replacing toilet seals, worn out cabinet hardware, and aging lighting and bath fixtures. It needs some minor window treatment repairs. All at a cost of less than $300

Chassis Work I Have Done Already: Thorley 303y, K&N filters, Air Lift air springs (w/ auto inflator), front & rear receiver hitches with Thule ski rack and storage pod on rear receiver, bike rack on front receiver, sound proofing doghouse/engine. All at a cost of about $700.

1983 Sportscoach III (the Ski Haus - snow and water), 454 c.u., turbo 400, Thorley 303y, K&N filters, Air Lift air springs (w/ auto inflator), Mor-Ryde tag axle, front & rear receiver hitches with Thule ski rack and storage pod on rear receiver (ask if you want info or plans).
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1983 Sportscoach III (the Ski Haus - snow and water), 454 c.u., turbo 400, Thorley 303y, K&N filters, Air Lift air springs (w/ auto inflator), Mor-Ryde tag axle, front & rear receiver hitches with Thule ski rack and storage pod on rear receiver (ask
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Old 04-17-2002, 05:15 AM   #7
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Generally I hate buying new vehicals (although I've bought a few new)because of the depreciation. I advise first time rv buyers to buy used, good quality products because of this. Nothing worse than buying a new entry level unit with a big payment and finding out you hate or cannot afford RVing and the unit is leaking and falling apart as you go down the road. Then you try to sell and find you owe many thousands more than the unit is worth (called being upside down finacially). HUGE mistake many people make. Better to buy a used unit in good shape (have it checked over professionally) that someone else has paid the depreciation on (worst within the first 3-5yrs)with name brand appliances. Yes newer gets you more horses ....shinier widgets and a dealer to complain to, but the cost difference is usually not worth this untill you're a seasoned RVer and know EXACTLY what you want and have done a lot of homework and have the cash in the bank. My bottom line is I love to camp (RV...whatever) but if I have to take a second job to pay for it.. then I have no time off to camp....defeats the purpose.

Cheers,
Paul

97 Okanagan 22ft 5er
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Old 10-08-2006, 04:08 AM   #8
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Old also, am trying to buy one from private owners and they all 'believe' their unit is worth far more than what is really true. What do you tell them. I've tried a couple and even offered more than hi-Nada but....
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Old 10-08-2006, 03:19 PM   #9
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The last car we bought new was in 1995. Since we have bought used cars and trucks as well as RVs. The depreciation during the first year of ownership is just not worth the having "new" to me.

Ken
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Old 10-08-2006, 04:05 PM   #10
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We have you beat by 1 year, Ken. Our last new car (in both meanings) was in 1994. We bought our RV used (4 years old) and don't regret it at all. Originally, my thinking was that if I bought brand new and kept it until I needed a wrecker to tow it off, that was the best approach. Now, I no longer want to take the hit in the first couple of years and most of the manufacturers have proved to me that having a warranty has limited value. I'd rather have the vehicle well broken in and then be able to do an assessment of its problems rather than experience all of the problems and have to beg someone else to fix them.

When I buy used, I know who will fix the problems - me! I've been waiting on myself all of my life.
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Old 10-08-2006, 08:55 PM   #11
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Used. New is fancy shiny and has so many computer components that can fail in them now, that you have to be a Big Three tech to understand that the **** is going on.

My 92 Predates Dodge switching to the mangum engine, so everything is basically similar to what was in there back in the 1970s and 1980s, but with a spify Throttle Body Injector setup instead of a cabureateur (Which I could swap to, the TBI still uses vacuum hoses to control its idle throttle). The benefit to me? My brother is an ASM certified mechanic and most things on the engine I can fix myself even though I'm only a shade tree.

I bought a used camper because Older does indeed = Lighter. My 11' weighs about what most 8' non-slide units weight these days. She's needed some TLC here and there, but nothing that someone with enough brains to swing a hammer couldn't do.
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Old 10-09-2006, 04:54 AM   #12
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I buy EVERYTHING at least 1 year old and the truck has an extended warranty up to 100k miles. I use NADA and always offer 500 over trade in, and never in a hurry. My depreciation is much lower and still have very trouble free product. I guess it is a very personal issue, I get into real trouble fixing things, so this is a compromise.
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Old 11-11-2006, 12:52 PM   #13
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Well, finally found the unit we were looking for. Got a 'reasonable' price as well. The rig will be just what we thought it would be. Even if we don't end up likeing the style(not full time anyway) it will make one heck of a 'hunt-mobile'. Getting all of the engine fluids, brakes, etc changed this week so I know where its at. All the rest seems to be in reasonable shape, so no complaints. And also not 'ever' going to be upside down on it.
This site has been very helpful in my search and can't say enough about that.
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