OMG, my tire came off and passed me!!

[BSHGTO]

Originally Posted by retiredusps6

I had 2 come off not on a RV but a Loaded Gasoline Trailer. Beat me to the Gas Station I was to deliver to. They really pickup speed with nothing to hold them back!!!A fellow driver had one go over divider and flatten a Toyota Pickup.Drivers are always loosing tires from tire racks. Pickups and suv's drop them also.Companies used to tell you if you loose tire from the rack deny you had a spare.

As a husband of a insurance agent she comes home with stories about clowns that say this type of thing and every one knows they are lying. Wife must have been proud of you.

[JorgeS]

I have a friend who lost a son when his van was hit by a semi's tire that had off while going in the opposite direction. Wheel crossed one lane, then the median, then another lane until it hit the van. Instantly killed.
As for the torque, quite possibly the lugs we're damaged by overtorque. Insufficient torque can also cause lug failure. Not enough torque can cause lugs to fail from fatigue. Either end (not enough/too much) is bad.
Only way to know which issue causes it is to examine the fractured end of a lug under a microscope...unless of course the other lugs are also over or under tightened.
So glad this ended like it did, could have been really bad.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by journeyman

This site shows that without lubrication on a stud, you need more torque to get the required clamping pressure.

I assume most ALL torque specs for wheel lug nuts are listed without any lubrication.

This does NOT mean that lubrication is bad, just that you need less torque to achieve the required clamping force.

If you choose to use lubricant (I use anti-seize), posting the new correct required torque is a very good idea
Obviously, this is for a small wheel application, but the idea is to make it clear on each wheel position of the rig.

Just to clarify. If you lubricate the threads you will over-stretch the bolt before you reach the desired torque spec. This may sound counterintuitive but torque is really a measure of the friction required to tighten a bolt. Lubricate and you lower the friction means you will twist the nut more before reaching the "friction limit". This can result in stretching the bolt more than desired.


HERE is a torque spec and lube effect chart. Clean and dry is probably best.

[ASU777]

Originally Posted by Bo233

My wife is pretty anal about the propane on the RV but me Its all about the tires. I'm new to RV ownership. We have been traveling a lot by motor cycle. I have seen tractor trailer blow tire right in front of me cars truck and boat trailers too. I have seen and felt the after math of when tire go really bad.I will save you the gory details of my friend and just say I miss him.


I do a precheck on all 7 of my tires
1)Tire pressures I weighed the RV full of stuff but but dry and full tanks. for me that is 15470 dry and 17235 full for my tires the pressures are 80 psi/ 90 psi. the manufacturer states that for my tires these are the perfect pressures so that is what I run.
2)I own a tuque wrench that can handed my tires.(Its a monster) I check the tuque on travel day of every single wheel that means I pull the simulators off and get to every lug nut on my RV. I do not do this every time I stop but every time I start a trip that is to the destinations and from the destinations.
My reason are legion but one is the roads pound the crap out of your RV(they call it a rolling earthquake for a reason)all that pounding come from the tires and they soften the pounding but the poor tire takes the unfiltered pounding like a champ day in day out.
I was told a long time ago to drive on your new tires for 50 and re-tuque them a RV is a motor vehicle so I do the same as if it where my cars/trucks bike/scooters.........

Do you have a 1" drive torque wrench?

[MoMule]

Originally Posted by Bo233

My wife is pretty anal about the propane on the RV but me Its all about the tires. I'm new to RV ownership. We have been traveling a lot by motor cycle. I have seen tractor trailer blow tire right in front of me cars truck and boat trailers too. I have seen and felt the after math of when tire go really bad.I will save you the gory details of my friend and just say I miss him.


I do a precheck on all 7 of my tires
1)Tire pressures I weighed the RV full of stuff but but dry and full tanks. for me that is 15470 dry and 17235 full for my tires the pressures are 80 psi/ 90 psi. the manufacturer states that for my tires these are the perfect pressures so that is what I run.
2)I own a tuque wrench that can handed my tires.(Its a monster) I check the tuque on travel day of every single wheel that means I pull the simulators off and get to every lug nut on my RV. I do not do this every time I stop but every time I start a trip that is to the destinations and from the destinations.
My reason are legion but one is the roads pound the crap out of your RV(they call it a rolling earthquake for a reason)all that pounding come from the tires and they soften the pounding but the poor tire takes the unfiltered pounding like a champ day in day out.
I was told a long time ago to drive on your new tires for 50 and re-tuque them a RV is a motor vehicle so I do the same as if it where my cars/trucks bike/scooters.........

Ever have a tire go flat on the bike at 60mph? I did, rear tire on a fully loaded FLT Harley

[Piros1]

I had one come off the passenger side on a dual wheel pickup with a cab over camper many years ago, back in the 1970’s. We made it without damage to the truck, is, or anyone else. The difference was mine came off and all I heard was a slight vibration. Even stopped the truck to check but didn’t feel anything until almost stopped. Luckily we found the tire and wheel and had some bolts I could bolt the wheels and hub together and put it back on in one piece. That is a little smaller than your coach. I could write a book on tire and wheel issues that I have experienced through the years but I type to slow. Glad you and your family are safe and your coach only had minor damage.

[journeyman]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Just to clarify. If you lubricate the threads you will over-stretch the bolt before you reach the desired torque spec. This may sound counterintuitive but torque is really a measure of the friction required to tighten a bolt. Lubricate and you lower the friction means you will twist the nut more before reaching the "friction limit". This can result in stretching the bolt more than desired.


HERE is a torque spec and lube effect chart. Clean and dry is probably best.

I think you might mean "specified" torque, not "desired" torque.

Torque numbers will be specified (typically) dry. That number MUST BE REDUCED if any lubricant is used. This is the desired torque.



Many people are afraid of using lubricants, but with proper torque specs (reduced), they can be used.
TIREMAN is on point here about stretching with overtorque. Engineering design looks specifically at this when specifying stud sizes needed to get the required clamping forces. The stud diameter and thread pitch are designed to use the smallest diameter stud (reduce cost and weight), while providing an adequate factor of safety.



Lubricants allow the user to keep the same level of clamping force with reduced torque (Ft. Lbs.)

[retiredusps6]

Originally Posted by BSHGTO

As a husband of a insurance agent she comes home with stories about clowns that say this type of thing and every one knows they are lying. Wife must have been proud of you.

Sorry you think everyone posts BS.It happened In Middletown NY. at Junction of Rt 84 and 17.Tires went thru a Gulf Station sign and Hit Front of Citgo Station.If I still had the accident report I would post it.Happened in the middle 1970s.The transport Co. Is no longer in business so not able to get report from them.Maybe The other guys are trying to Impress your wife.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by jbucking

The assumption when lug nuts shear off is, almost always, that they were torqued too tight, but what should one expect if the lug nuts were too loose ? I am curious, did you check the torque on your lug nuts as part of the per-trip inspection ? If the lug nuts are too loose it would seem that the wheel would start to move and eat away at the studs. Once one stud failed, then another, from a loose wheel, then the others would fail eventually. This may have been going on for while. I just wonder ? Have anyone ever experienced a failure from lugs nuts being too loose ? Of course, checking the torque on your lug nuts should clearly be a part of any pre-trip inspection.

Easy to tell the difference. Broken studs would leave the end of the stud in the hub. May have the look of a crater or smooth surface as seen here.


A loose nut would leave damage arount the holes in the wheel and there would probably be partial stud sticking out of the hub with the threads chewed up.

[Spdstr]

This subject comes across my other forums every so often, especially concerning spark plugs. What Ive gathered over the years is to deduct 20% of the desired torque value if you lubricate the threads. Do a Google search and you’ll find many opinions. I always leave my threads dry and torque according to the manual.

[slp]

Originally Posted by markarbogast

Sure would be nice to know who that dealer was. Especially if he is still in business.

I worked directly with Jayco on my case. They created a ticket for me after I sent them all of the details (including my video). THEN I contacted my dealer service manager and explained the situation. I placed the service manager in touch with my Jayco case manager. They worked through the details (with some pushing of course) to replace all lug bolts and lug nuts along with the wheels that were damaged.

The rig is going to the dealer on Oct 22. They needed to order parts, etc. I am told that it will take at least 4 weeks because they have to inspect the axle, brakes and other components that MAY have been damaged and then order/replace as needed.

I will update everyone once this is done, for now, I am "hearing" all the right things from Entegra/Jayco. We shall see.

[Wayne MD]

Yes,keep us all informed how this turns out in the end. Good or bad, we want to know.

[retiredusps6]

Fastenal Has a Torque Spec chart for all types of bolts. USS, Metric,All grade types and sizes wet and dry threads .Just type in Torque calculator on their site.Hope this helps someone out.

[skypilot_1]

Originally Posted by slp

I worked directly with Jayco on my case. They created a ticket for me after I sent them all of the details (including my video). THEN I contacted my dealer service manager and explained the situation. I placed the service manager in touch with my Jayco case manager. They worked through the details (with some pushing of course) to replace all lug bolts and lug nuts along with the wheels that were damaged.

The rig is going to the dealer on Oct 22. They needed to order parts, etc. I am told that it will take at least 4 weeks because they have to inspect the axle, brakes and other components that MAY have been damaged and then order/replace as needed.

I will update everyone once this is done, for now, I am "hearing" all the right things from Entegra/Jayco. We shall see.

They are having an RV dealer do this heavy chassis work ?