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Old 04-28-2016, 10:35 AM   #15
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You can try charging it but it's dead. Below 10 volts and won't charge? It's dead. It shows a charge when your rig is running because that's the engine current. As soon as you turn off the engine it drops, correct? Battery is dead. Upgrade to a bank of 6 volt or lithium.
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Old 04-28-2016, 10:59 AM   #16
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Yep, pretty sure it's dead. Disconnected it from the trailer, and only has 8.3 volts on it. Put the charger on it anyway, just in case, but looks like a new battery in the very near future.

This one "was" Exide Nautilus Starting part# 24MS. 525 MCA. 450 CCA. 65 RC Mins

Suggest any other brand/model/strength? Please?

I am willing to spend a bit for a better battery. Never know when/if I will NEED it, and want it to work when/if that time comes.
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Old 04-28-2016, 12:00 PM   #17
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If it has a CCA rating it is not a deep cycle storage battery. It is a car starting battery not intended for long discharge low current cycles. What you want is a similar case size deep cycle battery. Look at places like:

Interstate Batteries | The Search For Batteries Ends Here ™

Trojan Battery Company

They will give you more information plus the range of sizes available. You need to match physical size to the space available. You also need to understand battery type vs system requirements and pocket depth. I'd probably go flooded cell since you are not losing water that will match your charger converter with a minimum hassle.

Your next issue is case size. Get the dimensions of the space available and pick case sizes that fit. Once you have a few sizes you can look at the differences in price and capacity. You will see references to going to two 6 V instead of one or two 12 V batteries. That is good advice for folks with 6 or 8 batteries in the house part of their DP battery bay. It does not work so well for trailers and small motor homes because of space constraints. Once you establish case size you can compare the capacity and price of any combination.
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Old 04-28-2016, 12:38 PM   #18
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I agree with the above. Space determines the max size. Then you need to get the biggest true deep cycle that will fit.
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Old 04-28-2016, 12:39 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nothermark View Post
If it has a CCA rating it is not a deep cycle storage battery. It is a car starting battery not intended for long discharge low current cycles. What you want is a similar case size deep cycle battery. Look at places like:

Interstate Batteries | The Search For Batteries Ends Here ™

Trojan Battery Company

They will give you more information plus the range of sizes available. You need to match physical size to the space available. You also need to understand battery type vs system requirements and pocket depth. I'd probably go flooded cell since you are not losing water that will match your charger converter with a minimum hassle.

Your next issue is case size. Get the dimensions of the space available and pick case sizes that fit. Once you have a few sizes you can look at the differences in price and capacity. You will see references to going to two 6 V instead of one or two 12 V batteries. That is good advice for folks with 6 or 8 batteries in the house part of their DP battery bay. It does not work so well for trailers and small motor homes because of space constraints. Once you establish case size you can compare the capacity and price of any combination.
I am surprised that they put a "starting" battery in this trailer, when that is clearly NOT what is needed. I guess it is cheaper, and they don't care if it only lasts a couple months, because then it is the owner's problem.

Thanks for the links. I will get another battery sometime this weekend, while I am out and about.

As for space, I have the entire front A that I can use, and the battery tray goes all the way across, behind the propane bottles. If I wanted, i could go with a larger battery (dimension-wise) and simply add a larger battery box. I might go that way, just in case we end up in national park without power, and we need to keep the fridge cool and water pump running.
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Old 04-28-2016, 01:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottandanna View Post
I am surprised that they put a "starting" battery in this trailer, when that is clearly NOT what is needed. I guess it is cheaper, and they don't care if it only lasts a couple months, because then it is the owner's problem.

Thanks for the links. I will get another battery sometime this weekend, while I am out and about.

As for space, I have the entire front A that I can use, and the battery tray goes all the way across, behind the propane bottles. If I wanted, i could go with a larger battery (dimension-wise) and simply add a larger battery box. I might go that way, just in case we end up in national park without power, and we need to keep the fridge cool and water pump running.
Almost every manufacturer of RV's put in a so called marine deep cycle 12 volt battery that is no good for any heavy use. As I mentioned, you should look at getting 2 6 volt golf cart batteries like Trojan or Interstate. You might also consider getting a monitor like a Trimetric so you can see what is going in and out of the batteries. This will show you if you have anything sucking power out of the batteries, how much charge you have left and much more, great device to have.
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Old 04-28-2016, 02:23 PM   #21
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Almost every manufacturer of RV's put in a so called marine deep cycle 12 volt battery that is no good for any heavy use. As I mentioned, you should look at getting 2 6 volt golf cart batteries like Trojan or Interstate. You might also consider getting a monitor like a Trimetric so you can see what is going in and out of the batteries. This will show you if you have anything sucking power out of the batteries, how much charge you have left and much more, great device to have.
What benefit does 2 6-volt batteries have over a single 12-volt? Just more lead, more acid, and longer access to power without having to have a HUGE single 12-volt battery?

I EASILY have room for 2 batteries. If that is the better way to go.
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Old 04-28-2016, 02:35 PM   #22
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What benefit does 2 6-volt batteries have over a single 12-volt? Just more lead, more acid, and longer access to power without having to have a HUGE single 12-volt battery?

I EASILY have room for 2 batteries. If that is the better way to go.
Yes as well as many more charge cycles. 6V golf cart batteries are less $$/Ah due to mass production. Some people don't like to have only 2 6V batteries in case of the unlikely situation where only one went out. You can get 12V true deep cycle batteries from the manufactures mentioned, but they are a little more expensive. I first replaced my 12V marine hybrid in my previous RV with 2 6V batteries. Then I found a way to add two more. If you plan to do some boonedocking, use a residential fridge, or install an inverter, you should add as many Ah as you can possibly fit.
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Old 04-28-2016, 03:31 PM   #23
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U might try to get a couple of tubs of damp rid and set out in trailer to help,with moister
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Old 04-28-2016, 04:35 PM   #24
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U might try to get a couple of tubs of damp rid and set out in trailer to help,with moister
You obviously have never lived in SE Texas near the coast. When I say "high humidity", I don't mean lightly tacky. I mean "walk to the mailbox, come back inside, and change into dry clothes" humidity. I often go through 3 or 5 sets of dry clothes each day.

It is often 100% relative humidity throughout the night and into mid-morning hours, especially this time of year and on through the summer, and into mid-November. My asphalt shingle roof sweats on my house. The sidewalks sweat.

I am not exaggerating AT ALL. This is the reason we are leaving the S&B and going full-time, as we find a new home in either Washington or Oregon. Somewhere on the OTHER side of the Continental Divide!

We spent Thanksgiving and Christmas at an RV park on the beach, and had to wash our towels every other day, because even inside the trailer, with A/C running full blast 24 hours a day, fans blowing on them, the towels never got dry. After 2 days, we had to wash them and put them through a clothes dryer to get them to dry before they started to stink.

Anyway, we keep it plugged in with A/C set at 80 or so, and there is a puddle where the A/C drips at the back of the trailer ALL THE TIME.

UPDATE--The battery DID take a charge, and was at 12.3v just a minute ago. I still yanked it, and will take it in for a test, and I will still be buying a deep cycle battery (or pair of 6v), because that is we need while we are on the road. If the battery passes tests, then I will put it in an old Ford 8N tractor we have.
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Old 04-28-2016, 04:48 PM   #25
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This is a fantastic article. Although the article is speaking from the perspective of what happens when batteries run dry on water, both the article and the website has a lot of info.

The RV Doctor: Boiling Batteries

For instance, he speaks to how long it takes a battery to come fully to a charge. He states that it can take several days to come to full charge.

He also speaks of methods to test if the battery is fully charged and damaged, or still charging.

He probably has an article on the site that also speaks to batteries that went full dead.
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Old 04-28-2016, 05:11 PM   #26
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FWIW It does take a day or two to properly fully charge a wet cell battery. In essence chemistry takes time. OTOH if the battery gets below around 10 volts at least 1 cell has stopped working. If one runs a current through it for a few hours and it does not come back it probably will never recover as it has probably shorted internally. What can happen is most chargers will shut down instead of feeding current to a really low battery. In those cases I have brought some back by using a low value resistance or big light bulb to limit current to an amp or two long enough to get the cells all going then switch to high current bulk charging.
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Old 04-28-2016, 05:40 PM   #27
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FWIW It does take a day or two to properly fully charge a wet cell battery. In essence chemistry takes time. OTOH if the battery gets below around 10 volts at least 1 cell has stopped working. If one runs a current through it for a few hours and it does not come back it probably will never recover as it has probably shorted internally. What can happen is most chargers will shut down instead of feeding current to a really low battery. In those cases I have brought some back by using a low value resistance or big light bulb to limit current to an amp or two long enough to get the cells all going then switch to high current bulk charging.
I have used a charger on an optima, that was low enough that the charger did not even come on to recharge it. But I tied another regular battery in line, and hooked up the charger, and it picked up the signal from the better battery, and turned on and started to charge both. By the time the better battery was fully charged, the optima was still low, but charged enough that the charger picked up the signal and stayed on to recharge it, too.
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:01 PM   #28
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...
UPDATE--The battery DID take a charge, and was at 12.3v just a minute ago.

Was the voltage measurement taken while the charger was still charging? Or several hours after being disconnected?

Either way, that battery is NOT charged! While connected to the charger you should read at LEAST 13.4 volts

If it was left to "rest" for several hours after the charger was disconnected it should read 12.6 volts if it was fully charged.

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