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Old 10-19-2015, 07:42 PM   #1
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Park brake lever, air leak

My wife has constantly talked about a sssssss she heard. I just had a Cochlear implant. This is our first trip and NOW I AM HEARING IT so it must be time to fix it. Stopping over night I have found the leak. The leak is around the stem of the Push/Pull lever (on/off).
This is a 38.5' 2000 Diplomat 315 Cummings. I drained it down to 0 lbs pressure, but I cannot see away to take it apart. My hope is to replace the 'o' rings that must be in there somewhere! ;-) Anyone know an answer, or suggestion. We are headed toward Wildwood, FL.
Thanks.
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Old 10-20-2015, 04:31 AM   #2
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You could try getting some glycerin into the o ring by the shaft and working it in and out. Of coarse the pressure should be zero at the valve. If this does not correct the problem a new valve is in order. Good luck and keep us posted. Save travels.
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Old 10-20-2015, 04:41 PM   #3
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Have you priced a new brake push/pull switch? I didn't think they were that expensive. It a standard air brake system component, so ought to be widely available at truck repoair & parts shops, and competitively priced.

If in Wildwood, maybe Alliance RV could supply one. They are good folks to work with (but they still charge "RV prices").
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Old 10-20-2015, 11:38 PM   #4
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You could try getting some glycerin into the o ring by the shaft and working it in and out. Of coarse the pressure should be zero at the valve. If this does not correct the problem a new valve is in order. Good luck and keep us posted. Save travels.
Strange, this morning I started off and NO sssssss. That worries me, like a water leak, I cannot see it fixing itself. Anyway I have it down to 0 pressure, and I will give the lub a shot.
Thanks to all, for the pointers.
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Old 10-21-2015, 05:42 AM   #5
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jacsher,
You might want to have a certified truck brake mechanic check the leak out, sometimes there is a problem with the spring loaded brake "maxi" on the rear axle, this causes an air bypass like what you are hearing.
Frank
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Old 10-21-2015, 07:15 AM   #6
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Sometimes the valve mounting screws are loose or the locknut under the knob is run down the threads. This causes the knob to not push in completly, causing a leak.

Check it out.
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Old 10-21-2015, 10:07 PM   #7
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Most times if you wiggle the knob a bit it will reseat itself and quit leaking. As a matter of fact the truck I am driving right now does that and a little wiggle stops it.

If that does not work then eventually you will have to replace it.
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Old 10-22-2015, 08:06 PM   #8
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Most times if you wiggle the knob a bit it will reseat itself and quit leaking. As a matter of fact the truck I am driving right now does that and a little wiggle stops it.


If that does not work then eventually you will have to replace it.
Yeah, It started again. I knew I needed to replace it. I wiggled it a little, also at zero PSI I tried putting silicon in, still a leak.
GAry above suggest just replacing it. I found it on the net for 26$. Then took a trip to NAPA they will have a valve for me in the morning,for $38.

I was worried about R&R because of the configuration to remove the lines. But then I looked closely at the lines are quick disconnect, this is going to be a breeze I said. (Then remembering I have said that before on something simple then, I revised that.

Thanks again for the assistance. I will let you know when I geterin. if I do have problems or not, I will let you guys know...

BTW an old friend, head mech at a USP shop heard of my trouble. He e-mailed me saying he had replaced the o rings before in this Milton pish/pull, but the unit being plastic, best to replace it.
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Old 10-25-2015, 07:08 PM   #9
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Fixed

I picked up the replacement valve at NAPA, It wasn't too much of a hassle, One quick release didn't want to cooperate so I had to cut the line to get it out so I could see to work clear. The unit is not metal I always worry about too much torque, but it went well and no leaks.

Thanks again for tips and suggestions.
Jack

On a side note, the Cochlear implant sure makes it easy to fix something 'The wife hears'.
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