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Old 01-28-2015, 02:26 PM   #15
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I am with Gordon on this all the way. My choice was 6" concrete over crushed stone with binder dust. Plenty of expansion joints and control brakes. You can roll on, kneel on it and find parts that fall. My drive cost about $7000 is 20 wide and 45 long.

River stone , crack or hole is a rather poor choice as it tends to move under pressure. Asphalt is not a good choice in my opinion as it will sag over time, deteriorate from heat and chemical. My Grandfather put down concrete sidewalks in my home town back in the 20's and it is still functioning very well. Concrete gets harder with age.

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Old 01-28-2015, 07:51 PM   #16
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If you are going to do concrete. Make some plans to shore up the pad for the heavy points of your coach that sit for extended periods. Were the tires sit, if you deploy your levelers these areas will eventually crack. I am not a concrete guy - but my drive ways is shot were the levelers sit and the tires are. When I replace my driveway.... an experienced concrete guy will do it right so it lasts.

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Old 01-28-2015, 09:08 PM   #17
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Our Pad

I had crushed #57 gravel in 4 inch then 4 inch of granite mix then laid pavers.
Been down for 3 years now and still perfect.
Don and Nancy
[2014 40QBH Phaeton, 2015 Buick Enclave, 2yr old sisters Sara n Kaycee, Havanese, Two Segways
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Old 01-28-2015, 09:16 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Mike and Cha View Post
Scotty, what is a ballpark price on the cover you built, if you are putting it on a concrete pad, is there anything you need to do extra to support it, and is the side portion coming down enough to keep the MH clean in the rain/wind ect. We too are planning on putting a pad on the side of our house, that would join with our driveway pavers, we currently keep the MH parked on the pavers with no issues...so this info has been very helpful...Thanks
Mike, the partial side walls do a good job protecting if from sun and rain. Wind is not much of a factor here. I did the work myself with the help of some labor and a few friends. I ordered the red iron and sheet metal from Mueller Metal Buildings which has a store about 10 miles up the road. I poured 24" concrete piers 5 ' deep or until I hit solid rock. So if I pour a concrete slab, it will only be for paving purposes and not structural support. The building cost around 10K. I probably have another 5 K in road base, concrete, beer, and BBQ. Here are some photos of the piers and more of us putting the building up at this link. RV Carport
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Scotty and Kristen, Airedales Dagny and Wyatt
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:17 PM   #19
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Thanks Scotty, I will see if I am able to do that here. We have a large lot about a half acre(probably not large in comparison to yours), but we are still in a residential area, with gas, sewer, water lines to worry about. I have an area that is about 30' wide and 80' deep to work with. I love the look of yours though and I will see if my contractor thinks it's possible. Thanks for the info and photos.
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Old 01-29-2015, 05:37 AM   #20
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Get higher PSI concrete if possible also. I used 3500 on my driveway. I had a naturally hard/undisturbed sand base so I did not have to do much with the base.

Raymond, Dee Dee and Sophie (Yorkie)
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