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Colesmeister · 02-13-2007, 11:14 AM

Okay, a question of a different type. We're going to have our driveway paved. Assuming they lay down a good base of aggregate, is two inches of asphalt enough to park a 38 foot diesel pusher on? The temp in the summer around here does climb to the upper 90s and into the 100s sometimes. Will that make the asphalt too soft to park on?

Greg

Colesmeister · 02-13-2007, 11:14 AM

Okay, a question of a different type. We're going to have our driveway paved. Assuming they lay down a good base of aggregate, is two inches of asphalt enough to park a 38 foot diesel pusher on? The temp in the summer around here does climb to the upper 90s and into the 100s sometimes. Will that make the asphalt too soft to park on?

Greg

Rainbow · 02-13-2007, 12:31 PM

I doubt it. i think freezing would be more of a problem than heat. I poured a slab to park our 34' gasoline MH and we used 5" of concrete. Its held up well for about 10 years. I know people who have tried to get buy with 3" and had cracking problems. Asphaltic concrete will not soften in hot weather but you'd be safer with 5".

R.G.Wise · 02-13-2007, 12:58 PM

if going to asphalt use at least 4 to 6 inches. You can get by with 4, if you use 2 of asphalt base and 2 of topping material.

GaryKD · 02-13-2007, 01:51 PM

My coach length is about the same as yours. I had a concrete pad made in 2005 for a 39 ft DP. GVW is 32K. Street weight is 30K. All the contractors who bid said the same thing, 6" of reinforced concrete (some sort of special mix to handle the static weight). So far, no cracks or chips. I do not know if there is a relationship to concrete and asphalt as far as the thickness that is needed.

Jestme13 · 02-13-2007, 02:01 PM

Use a good compacted base of at least 6 " of modified crushed stone, a 4" base of course base asphalt rolled real tight, then a 2" finish coat rolled as tight as you can get it. This is how it needs to be done to support any real weight. If you go thin on yer asphalt you must remember that all the PSI is only directly under the wheels, this is why ruts accure up and down driveways after a few yrs. Even with all this you will probably see depressions under your tires where you will be sitting when parked after a few seasons. If yer gonna do it, do it right. Ask yer local paving contractor what they think.

hamdave · 02-13-2007, 02:10 PM

I have my entire driveway in 'concrete'. Its 4 in on the top but its 5-6 in over blast-furnace slag that was laid down and allowed to settle before the concrete & wire was added. Over 25 years now. It does have some cracks in the drive and I'll probably have fixed, but its not a high priority.

SacsTC · 02-13-2007, 02:44 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Use a good compacted base of at least 6 " of modified crushed stone, a 4" base of course base asphalt rolled real tight, then a 2" finish coat rolled as tight as you can get it. This is how it needs to be done to support any real weight. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I agree totally with Jestme13. Especially in WA. state. Sub base is one of the most important things in either concrete or asphalt. For the first summer after laying the asphalt, I would recommend not using your jacks without a fairly large base between it and your new asphalt. Also try not to make any sharp turns without the vehicle being in motion.

Colesmeister · 02-14-2007, 06:17 AM

Thank you for all the responses. We have decided to pave the area used by passenger cars and to leave the motorhome parking as gravel.

hondo122 · 02-15-2007, 11:32 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jestme13:
Use a good compacted base of at least 6 " of modified crushed stone, a 4" base of course base asphalt rolled real tight, then a 2" finish coat rolled as tight as you can get it. This is how it needs to be done to support any real weight. If you go thin on yer asphalt you must remember that all the PSI is only directly under the wheels, this is why ruts accure up and down driveways after a few yrs. Even with all this you will probably see depressions under your tires where you will be sitting when parked after a few seasons. If yer gonna do it, do it right. Ask yer local paving contractor what they think. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Steve very good. Are you a paving contractor on the side? lol But really you hit it right on the head, without a base course you're p***ing your money away.

Jestme13 · 02-15-2007, 03:24 PM

I have to maintain the paving at my plant, we run equipment up to and sometimes over 100,000 lbs. Can you imagine what the thickness is on that stuff. I spend approx $200K to maintain it. All 47 acres of it. I should have also recommended GEO cloth under the crushed stone

hondo122 · 02-15-2007, 03:52 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jestme13:
I have to maintain the paving at my plant, we run equipment up to and sometimes over 100,000 lbs. Can you imagine what the thickness is on that stuff. I spend approx $200K to maintain it. All 47 acres of it. I should have also recommended GEO cloth under the crushed stone

</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Lets not get crazy!