Portable AC

[Giffordst]

Our unit only gas one AC unit. It is 30 amp. Thinking ahead, is it possible to use a portable AC in BR, if needed.

[Theberrys]

No reason you can't use a portable. A 10,000 BTU unit will cool between 300 and 350 Sq, Ft. and require about the same current as your overhead unit. A 15 Amp 120VAC service will be needed. That is around half of your 30 AMP service but not constantly, only when the compressor is starting up. Of course you can't control when that happens so a dedicated 15 AMP service is best. The problems I see are storage, and it must be vented to the outside somehow. Also you will need around two sq. ft. of floor space in the bedroom with at least 40 inches of height. The noise isn't bad, around 55db but not constant. The level changes loudness and pitch when the compressor runs. Some people have trouble sleeping with them running, I don't.

Good Luck
Dick

[CampDaven]

Your BR will only require a 5000 BTU unit. Done that in a S&B BR less than 200 SF. Easy peasy!
You could hang beef of you put it on full blast.
Dave and Nola, RV Mutants

[Wbonsell]

There are small portable AC units on the market. Sort of look like R2D2 and would work fine in a small area. They do, however, need to be vented to the outside via a 4" dryer type duct hose. Seems to me the run around $400-$500 dollars.

[Motor7]

"Our unit only gas one AC unit. It is 30 amp. Thinking ahead, is it possible to use a portable AC in BR, if needed."

What size RV and how old is the roof air? You just might need to upgrade to a newer more powerful unit.


I used one for my cuddy cabin on my boat in S Fla. It was a 5K and on wheels, had the 4" hose. The thing worked perfect, so I say "yes" it will help your situation.

[04266832]

I did this in my previous trailer with one A/C and 30 amp service. I purchased one of the floor units from Lowe's.

For ventilation we took the screen from a window and used it as a template and cut an opening for the vent hose to lock in. I used the command strip Velcro to put it on and take it off depending on if we needed the a.c or not.

For power, I used a 50ft extension cord (rated to handle the power - very heavy) that I ran to the power pedestal. There was direct access to the basement from the bedroom and I drilled a hole from the basement to the exterior and put a cover over it like you see in other trailers to run cords.

It worked well for the bedroom but certainly didn't help with the rest of the trailer just because of how separated it is. In fact, we didn't run it during the day because since the thermostat was right outside if the bedroom door, it would trick it into thinking it was cooler than it really was and the rest of the RV would heat up as the main AC shut off.

[Giffordst]

Originally Posted by Theberrys

No reason you can't use a portable. A 10,000 BTU unit will cool between 300 and 350 Sq, Ft. and require about the same current as your overhead unit. A 15 Amp 120VAC service will be needed. That is around half of your 30 AMP service but not constantly, only when the compressor is starting up. Of course you can't control when that happens so a dedicated 15 AMP service is best. The problems I see are storage, and it must be vented to the outside somehow. Also you will need around two sq. ft. of floor space in the bedroom with at least 40 inches of height. The noise isn't bad, around 55db but not constant. The level changes loudness and pitch when the compressor runs. Some people have trouble sleeping with them running, I don't.

Good Luck
Dick

Thanks for info. Hopefully I won't need one

[Giffordst]

Thanks for info. Hopefully, I want need one

[Giffordst]

Thank, new to posting and just learning lingo. What's an s&B?

[SkiSmuggs]

Originally Posted by Giffordst

Thank, new to posting and just learning lingo. What's an s&B?

Sticks and bricks = a real house