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Old 07-04-2015, 05:55 PM   #29
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Well, we just got back from our first camping trip, one week in the Texas Hill Country.

I now flip the main breaker in the trailer before plugging and unplugging. Seems to work well and no more sparks.
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:16 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by scottandanna View Post
I am using the shore power cable that came with the trailer. I am kinda timid about trying to run anything further than the 20 or 25 feet that this cable is.
You might want to get a 30A extension cord in case you need to go further, like if you were moochdocking and wanted to connect to your friend's garage, it is better to plug the 30 amp cord into the 15/30 amp adapter than to use a small gauge 110v cord.
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Old 07-09-2015, 03:17 PM   #31
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I came across a AWG12 extension cord today, 50' long.

Would this safely handle my A/C?

Kinda worried more about the length than the AWG12...
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Old 07-10-2015, 06:29 AM   #32
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That should be okay. I do that at home, just the other night. It wasn't quite long enough so I used a construction reel cord. Checked it after a while and the reel cord was hot, so I ran to the hardware store and picked up a 9' A/C extension cord which worked fine.
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Old 07-10-2015, 07:14 AM   #33
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When on limited power turn everything off before starting ac including lites, then step up the power needs by 1st turn ac on low fan only no cooling
Let that spin up then try the cooling or hi fan next.
How I usually got it going on 30 amp

Ah on phone didn't see other posts - carry on ��
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Old 07-10-2015, 07:18 AM   #34
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When on limited power turn everything off before starting ac, then step up the power needs by 1st turn ac on low fan only no cooling
Let that spin up then try the cooling or hi fan next.
How I usually got it going on 30 amp
I need to try my little generator that way. First time I tried it, everything tried to power up at once and bogged it down. I am pretty sure the 4400 watts should be enough to at least run the air, but not all in at first.
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Old 07-10-2015, 11:33 AM   #35
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not a dumb question,won't matter which you plugged first but you said there was a spark which should not happen check both ends of your plug in's ithink one is a problem because of the spark also should of kicked your breaker on your outside power
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:03 PM   #36
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I wouldn't worry about the spark. Anything that's turned on in the RV will cause this, perhaps even the converter.

A couple of months ago, I kept throwing the 15 amp breaker at the house when I plugged my MH in to power the refrigerator to cool it down. I then discovered I'd left the basement AC on the last time I had it out. It was throwing quite a spark when I plugged it in!!
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:13 PM   #37
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AC Power Requirements

I ran a quick perusal of AC power requirements, and discovered that they pull from 12.4-15.6 amps. So depending on your particular AC, it would probably fall somewhere in this range. This link will help to determine the safe capacity and length of a 12 ga cord, not the ideal load, but that which this cable manufacturer considers safe:
http://www.generalcable.com/NR/rdonl...Wire_Gauge.pdf
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Old 07-11-2015, 08:14 AM   #38
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Thanks for the link!
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Old 07-12-2015, 09:33 AM   #39
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And, I'm not sure you can get 220v with three wires, unless you have the neutral and ground in common. Sounds like a good way to become a crispy critter.
A great many 220V receptacles are 3-wire, for example, clothes dryer and electric range. The key is whether it's 125/250 rated or just 250 rated. The dual rating includes a neutral while the single voltage does not - 220/240V in the US doesn't have a neutral, both legs are "hot to ground."

Always make sure the plug/receptacle is matched to the application (the rating and NEMA type number are molded into the face) and CHECK THE ACTUAL VOLTAGE! If you didn't wire it yourself you don't know what was really hooked up inside. (And don't think licensed electrician is a guarantee. They make mistakes and often hire less than responsible helpers and don't always check their work. This from long and varied experience.)

Ray
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