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kartvines · 05-29-2011, 09:27 AM

Well it looks as if I now have no choices but to remove the old propane solenoid being my detector shorted out. I have already installed an updated CO and propane detector, so I have that covered. My question is after I remove the solenoid from the system what have others who has already done this used to fill that gap?

Can I use a high pressure hose and merely use claps on both end to fill the gaps or is this unsafe? I would prefer to keep it rigid.

doc · 05-29-2011, 09:59 AM

Flaired copper line maybe? You should only have the regulator pressure so the clamps would probably work as well. Is it code however?

wa8yxm · 05-29-2011, 11:24 AM

If that solenoid is designed to accept 12volt battery power

Why not put an ON-OFF switch in the motor home and .. Well, I'm sure you an figure it out from there.

kartvines · 05-29-2011, 04:35 PM

Yesterday I started out to test my propane system. After turning the valve on I did not get any gas. So I pulled the old detector and discovered that 3 of the 4 fuses were blown. As I was troubleshooting it, the fuses blew as soon as I installed them and to make the matter worst the switch broke off. As I was working on it I ended up frying the ground wired, so I pulled the unit completely out. I spent the rest of the day trying to get the unit to again work correctly. At the end of the day all I got was the alarm and it still would not provide the power needed to open the solenoid.
Today my plan was to work on the detector to get it to work, but being I have had problem with in before I decided to not waste the day so I decided to abandon the unit.
So instead I decided to pull out the solenoid. In doing so I ended up braking the fitting between the valve and the regulator.

Thinking I would not have any problem finding a replacement, but to my surprise, I could not find one any where, so My last stop was Ray RV in Banning.
He could not find the part I needed so just as I was ready to leave he came back with the part I needed that he pulled from his own rig. Now that is going the extra yard for a customer. so after taking it home and putting the supply line back together and testing to insure it worked, I ended up being very happy that I pulled the solenoid, being I will never have a problem with the gas supply again.
I gave the connection a simple smell test but plan to go back tomorrow with some soapy water to insure I do not have any leaks.

wa8yxm · 05-29-2011, 06:09 PM

I would love to see what broke, photo that is. Most of the fittings I see in that area are fairly common hardware store items. But there is always the one I've not seen yet,, or I may be mis-understanding what went bust.

kartvines · 05-29-2011, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

I would love to see what broke, photo that is. Most of the fittings I see in that area are fairly common hardware store items. But there is always the one I've not seen yet,, or I may be mis-understanding what went bust.

If I remember I will take a photo tomorrow and then I will post it on my blog and provide a link. I went to 2 hardware stores before heading to the RV shop, and they had very limited propane gas parts.

kartvines · 05-30-2011, 03:28 PM

Per wa8yxm request I added a few photos of the broken part that I had a hard time locating over this holiday week in, and posted it in My blog. If you are interested please feel free to check it out by following this link:

1983 Fleetwood Pace Arrow Motorhome Restoration Project: Propane detector with valve control

Gary RVRoamer · 05-30-2011, 03:37 PM

Unfortunately the propane shutoff valve used with the CCI detector does not take a simple 12v, so you can't just wire it to the battery or a switch. It is lower voltage and I believe it is pulsed besides.

There are substitute valves available that do work on straight 12v - that would be one option. Another is to simply cut a length of gas-grade copper tubing to fit, or use a short piece of LP gas hose. Most any propane shop should be able to fabricate a hose or copper tube fitting of the desired length.

The valve is normally in the low pressure side (less than 1 psi), so sealing the joint is not difficult.

ga traveler · 05-30-2011, 03:42 PM

Several of our customers had problems with this system. I always recommended going back with the original setup. They rightly poiinted out that 80% of the motorhomes came from the factory without the shutoff. If they had a working lp detector or would let me install one, I would remove the screws from the solonoid and take out the piston. Then reinstall the parts minus the piston. If you want to do away with he shutoff, the simplest way is to remove the piston. this way you do not disturb the hoses. Of course always bubble test when through.

kartvines · 05-30-2011, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ga traveler

Several of our customers had problems with this system. I always recommended going back with the original setup. They rightly poiinted out that 80% of the motorhomes came from the factory without the shutoff. If they had a working lp detector or would let me install one, I would remove the screws from the solonoid and take out the piston. Then reinstall the parts minus the piston. If you want to do away with he shutoff, the simplest way is to remove the piston. this way you do not disturb the hoses. Of course always bubble test when through.

Well I wish I knew that before I did what I did, but it is done now so it's moot. I wanted to keep it original but with all of the problems that developed with this system I decided that it was not worth the problems. I had already installed a CO and propane detector, and I always shut the propane off when not in used so it never concern me. beside it is 30 years old, and being none of the solenoid are compatible, it is pretty much worthless.

JimM68 · 05-30-2011, 09:40 PM

I'm confused... I've never seen or heard of a motorhome that did not have an electic propane valve directly controlled by a propane detector inside the cabin.

I'd consider removing one to be incredibly dangerous and bordering on not too smart.

That propane / co2 detector you installed, does it actually turn off the gas?
If it doesn't... what happens if you're camping, leave the coach, a leak develops, and a spark or pilot light blows your coach to ashes? And what about the coaches on either side of you?

You really go into the basement and turn off the propane whenever you leave the coach?
you don't leave the fridge running on propane when dry camping?
you never leave the water heater or furnace on?

kartvines · 05-31-2011, 04:49 AM

Well they stopped putting them on Motor-home in the mid 80's and is no longer required by law.

This is not my first RV and I have never left the propane on at any time I it was not being used. for no other reason then I get nervous because I have seen propane fires in may RV and choose not to be a party to that.

The heater is never on when we are not in the unit. I only use the water heater when I use it, and that I mainly for showers and that is about it, and for that I heat the water only as needed and then off it goes. If dishes need to be washed we either do it at the time, or heat water on the stove as needed, otherwise it is such a waste of propane to keep these thing running at all times

I never for any reason leave any propane driven items running when I am not in the rig. I just have gotten use to that and find it after and less nerve raking.

JimM68 · 05-31-2011, 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kartvines

Well they stopped putting them on Motor-home in the mid 80's and is no longer required by law..

My former 99 pace arrow had one.
So does my 08 knight.

Judging from the number of questions here about propan detectors, a lot of other m/h's have them too.

kartvines · 05-31-2011, 05:57 AM

All motor homes have propane detectors but are do they all turn the propane off via a solenoid when propane is detected?

It was my understandings most no longer have this system intact, because it is no longer a requirement to installed them.

I have alway be super safe and thrifty and refuse to leave my propane on when not in use, and in the rig.

It take only a minute to turn it on and then off again and I have just got into that habit.