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Old 11-26-2015, 11:03 PM   #1
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Protecting clear coat that is peeling

Hi all,
I just found a thread from a few months ago that almost exactly describes the peeling clear coat on my 2003 Monaco Windsor class A RV.

Cure for peeling clear-coat... Maybe!

On the top-facing surfaces of my RV, after years under the California sun, the clear coat has started to delaminate. This is mostly on the brow above the windshield and the back three feet of the roof (the rest of the White roof is fine, just the clear coat over the body color is peeling). And since my wife actually saw the damage after we took a ferry (she won't climb on the roof), I need to do something about it. The rest of my paint is in pretty good shape, except for checking in the darkest stripes.

The basic discussion of that previous thread is debating DIY clear coat application with spray cans vs professional repair/repaint. I'm leaning towards the professional repair, but will likely need some time before we (and our pocketbook) are ready to tackle that, so I'm wondering about how to protect it over the next several months.

Is it good to just wax over the damage to give it some UV protection? Or do a wet sand or cut polish to remove any loose damage, then wax? Or is there anything else you'd recommend? I don't really care how bad it looks, just looking to protect it from additional damage.

thanks for any advice you can provide,
Jason.
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Old 11-27-2015, 06:28 AM   #2
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My opinion it will peel til it's all gone. I let my front cap peel until there wasn't much left, less sanding. I clear coated mine it turned out good.
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Old 11-27-2015, 02:40 PM   #3
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Jason......I also live in California and previously owned a 2005 Monaco Diplomat. The failure of the clear coat along the roofline of almost every older Monaco and several other brands is common. There is NO simple repair. Many can tell you that they sanded and painted with rattle cans of clear and the problem is solved.....it's not, give it some time and it WILL come back and in several other places.

Mine started on the front cap and was above the running lights. I matched the paint and repainted above the running lights. I'm not a professional painter and I figured it was high enough up that no one would see my average painting skills. It was okay for about a year or two, until other areas started to go bad.

I finally bit the bullet and had the entire top of the coach repainted ABOVE the rain rail. On your Monaco, you'll have 2-4 different colors in your paint scheme that roll over the roof line. The dark colors are the most problematic. Mine had dark brown on the front cap.

When I had mine repainted, I had them create a new line above the running lights, where I had them change the color from the dark brown to the light tan on the bottom of the coach. Rather than paint all the different colors that roll over the roof, I had them paint the front and rear cap and both sides above the rain rail tan. Once done, you would never know that it wasn't painted that way from the factory.

By changing to the lighter color, the paint is less likely to go bad and produces less heat on the caps. I did some of the prep work and removed the running lights and air horns prior to taking it to the body shop. The cost was $3000.00 for the repaint. The coach looked like new when I was done and you get that great feeling of having everything looking nice again.
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Old 11-27-2015, 06:10 PM   #4
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I have painted for many, many years. Now is not the time to start taking care of failing clear. It should have been taken care of when it was in good condition. Don't contaminate the surface with any products that may interfere with proper paint adhesion when it is repainted.

Yes, some will do it themselves with rattle cans and just might get half way decent initial results. If your a glutton for punishment, or just plain cheap, climb up on a ladder and go for it. My advise is get it done properly. Now that the clear is failing is the base in good enough condition to just reclear? Do you know how to properly clean, sand, and prep to get proper adhesion not only on the surface but in the crooks and cranies? Don't forget to tape and mask so you don't get overspray all over especially on your windshield. After all the work, you will still be using a non catalyzed paint that will not hold up as well as a two part mixture so you might get to do it again.

If your up to it... go for it. Nothing I like better than looking at a DIY paint job for cheap entertainment.

I should probably edit myself a bit. You said you were leaning toward a professional repair and I am just pointing out the pitfalls of DIY paint repairs. Good luck with the repair!
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Old 11-28-2015, 09:53 AM   #5
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The clear coat on the top of my caps is also starting to peel. I was thinking of fixing it myself, but from talking to a few others they have all told me I need to sand it down, paint it, then put on a new clear coat. I found the local RV Body Repair Shop and they will fix it for a little under $4k.
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Old 11-28-2015, 10:03 AM   #6
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Spray max 2 k go to there web site for prep work and directions.
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Old 11-28-2015, 10:09 AM   #7
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I had some clearcoat peeling at the top of the rear cap. I bought a special cleaner and clear coat from the paint shop at O'Reillys Auto to try on it. I used some 1000 grit wet sandpaper around the edges, with the intention of applying the cleaner and clearcoat later. Would you believe it has not peeled any more! I'm just holding on to the cleaner and clearcoat just in case it starts peeling again!
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Old 11-28-2015, 10:15 AM   #8
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Hi all, thanks for the input and advice. As I said I'm just trying to maintain it until I can get a professional fix, and want to minimize additional wear.

Any thoughts on forgetting about paint entirely up there (i.e. above the running lights) and just doing it all with something like RV Armor or Dicor Fiberglass coating? I think the RV Armor price is probably around the ballpark as a paint for the same area, but would also help with the roof seals, leaks (we've already had cracks in the fiberglass).

thanks,
Jason.
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Old 11-29-2015, 02:45 PM   #9
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The Monaco Windsor is one of the best coaches that Monaco ever made. Even to this day, the Windsors are still a sharp and modern looking coach. Personally, I would repaint and make it look like it did from the factory.
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Old 11-29-2015, 05:08 PM   #10
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harbor freight sell a small gravity fed detail paint gun for about $15.00 and any auto paint store can fix you up with the correct clear coat and hardner .
nobody is going to crawl up there with a magnifying glass . just sand, mask and shoot.
if it is a little rough when done you can wet sand it 2000 grit and it make it look profesional
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Old 11-29-2015, 06:23 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tha_Rooster View Post
Spray max 2 k go to there web site for prep work and directions.
Agreed. Spraymax 2k is a two part clear coat in a can. There is an internal cylinder in the can that you puncture just before you use it. Once you puncture it you have 48 hours to use it. Done properly you will have professional results. But you need to spend some time on the net and read how to prep the paint AND apply the spraymax 2K. If you apply it like a normal rattle can job you will get normal rattle can results. You need a proper mask when you use this stuff WITHOUT FAIL. 3 TO 4 coats, 7 to 10 minutes apart. 1st coat light. The rest heavier. It has a special nozzle that mimicks a spray gun. I have had excellent results with this product on a number of occasions but its one of those things you get better at every project.

I'll leave it at that but your welcome to ask any questions.

Good luck and happy trails.

J and A
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Old 11-30-2015, 10:24 AM   #12
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I think it adds character to my Airstream. Goes with the other battle scars obtained during a long and productive career driving us anywhere and everywhere.
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