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Old 01-27-2012, 02:46 PM   #1
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Re-sealing roof seams

I was just up on the roof of my MH installing a new vent cover. While up there I inspected the seams and the areas around the various fixtures, a/c, antenna, standpipes etc.. It looks like it is time to re-seal these areas before they give me trouble. My roof is a solid fiberglass sheet and the end caps, and the fixtures mounted thru it, are sealed with whatever they used at the factory. My question is what is the best product to use to do this job? Thanks for all assistance.
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Old 01-27-2012, 02:57 PM   #2
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I just seal the cracks with silicone caulk. I know they make a tape I think it's called Dicor.
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Old 01-27-2012, 03:04 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbo16720 View Post
I just seal the cracks with silicone caulk. I know they make a tape I think it's called Dicor.
I would NEVER use silicone on a roof. Nothing will stick to silicone, not even more silicone and it's almost impossible to remove to put something else on.

The factory probably used Dicor self leveling lap sealant.

Another good one is Sikaflex, but more expensive, also some of the boat sealants are excellent.
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Old 01-27-2012, 03:10 PM   #4
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Dicor self leveling caulk is one method and has been in use for many years.
Eternabond tape has gained in popularity with many.
I do not recomend silicone sealents.
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Old 01-27-2012, 03:26 PM   #5
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Hi catonine,
Consider EternaBond. It's not pretty, but once installed you can forget it for 10 years. Go to RV Leak Repair Tapes & Sealants | EternaBond and read about the product.
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Old 01-27-2012, 03:32 PM   #6
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+1 for Eternabond Tape. Can be installed over the existing dicor self leveling sealant and onto almost any surface. Was first designed for underwater piping.
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Old 01-27-2012, 03:47 PM   #7
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Never silicone. Doesn't stick, and especially to any painted surface.
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:29 PM   #8
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Gary, thanks for the link. Some good info there. Thanks also to everyone that responded. I have used Dicor in years gone by but never used EternalBond. After what Ive been told here and what I saw on the provided link, I will most likely try the EternalBond. Someone said it didnt look that neat when applied, but I am more interested in rsults than looks. Most, if not all, of the areas to be resealed can only be seen when you are roof level anyway. Whatever does the best job preventing problems, thats what I go for. Again, thanks to all of you.
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:48 PM   #9
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Do NOT use silicone. Dicor Self Leveling Caulk is what the manufacturers of fiberglass and rubber roofs recommend for seals around vent caps and other protrusions through the roof. Use Geocel where the front and rear caps meets the roof (fiberglass to fiberglass). Approved by Winnebago for this application.

I know there are a lot of folks who like the Eternabond tape. I do too for specific applications. But generally, I believe in cleaning out the old seams and installing Dicor or Geocel, depending on the application. This is the approved method from most manufacturers.

Once you put the Eternabond tape on, it doesn't come back off (sometimes this is good; others it is not). It's also not visually appealing if it can be seen from below.
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:56 PM   #10
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This is from someone else who redid a MH fiberglass roof (Henry at Home Depot makes a product that is the same thing, just another option):


I have a '94 Safari Sahara and started to get a few roof leaks in places where I walked or sat, to put in a new A/C unit and do maintenance on other roof-mounted items. I had noticed the little glass fibers glinting in the sun more and more, and I could feel them when sitting on the roof in shorts when putting in a new solar panel this summer. I had fibers in the backs of my thighs that itched for days. The weather and time crack and flake away the resin between the fibers and the roof becomes porous, it also cracks in places where we walk or sit.
I went to Lowes and bought a 5-gallon pail of "Duralite White Elastomeric Roof Coating," made by Kool Seal. It was about $60.00, and I used less than 50% of it, using two coats. The Monaco service reps told me that most any decent white elastomeric roof coating would work well although they liked Kool Seal products because they were familiar with them. DO NOT use rubber roof coating; the Monaco guys said that it will peel off of this type of roof. I removed all of the old and patched-up sealant from the front and rear cap seams. Prior to my ownership, somebody had used a bunch of silicone which stuck poorly to the roof-meets-cap seams, and didn't stick to the original seam sealant either. Safari's original Dicor lap sealant comes off easily with a putty knife and some patience. That original Dicor was still pliable after all of these years.
I used Dicor Non-sag Lap Sealant, (they make self-leveling also but it is for a different type of job) which I bought, at Camping World and I wouldn't use any other kind of caulk for this job, it is phenomenal; it costs about $7 a tube. I talked with Monaco Coach service reps and this is what they recommended I buy. I bought the type packaged for a caulking gun (it comes in cans too) and used almost 5 tubes to re-seal the whole roof. You can use a putty knife to smooth it and form it. After caulking, I used a 4" wide paintbrush to apply Duralite overlapping the caulking and around places where I couldn't get a roller. I had no problem painting the Duralite right over the freshly applied Dicor sealant after it had skimmed over a bit. Following the Duralite directions, I rolled on one coat of Duralite from front-to-back of the coach; I let it dry and then rolled on the next coat in a side-to-side pattern (90 degrees over the first coat). You can buy Kool Seal at Camping World too, but they want $30 a gallon!
My coach has been in several big rainstorms, lasting days at a time, since that repair.
I have had zero leaks since, the roof is a bright white that reflects our hot Southwestern sun, and I can now sit my butt on the roof and have no itches afterward. I can now walk on the roof without hearing that crunching fiberglass sound, and the elastomeric coating stretches and remains pliable so no leaks occur. I am very pleased with the combination of the two products. I can always re-coat if I need to. I too have heard good things about Eternabond, but I wanted to re-do my roof and not just patch it. Eternabond would have been more expensive for my project. I hope my experience will help you with your project.
Good luck,
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:06 PM   #11
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I have used both and they are great. I keep some of each in the rig for emergancies
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:25 PM   #12
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Can EternalBond be used over the existing sealant, i.e, the Dicor etc., or does the old sealant need to be removed? I intend to remove all the old I can anyway, but Im just curious if it can be done and if so have any of you used it that way.
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:44 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catonine View Post
Can EternalBond be used over the existing sealant, i.e, the Dicor etc., or does the old sealant need to be removed? I intend to remove all the old I can anyway, but Im just curious if it can be done and if so have any of you used it that way.
you will get a better seal the smoother the surface. Might take an hour to heatgun/putty knife a typical cap seam free of old caulk. Then clean it really good with acetone and apply the eternabond. Use the eternaprime spray for better adhesion. Use a heavy roller to activate the eternabond tape.
The eterna is a permanent solution to sealing cap areas.
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Old 01-28-2012, 02:22 PM   #14
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Hi catonine,
I put the EternaBond over the existing seams, caulk, sealant, etc whatever the factory put on the coach. I cleaned everything really well with 303 and a scrub brush. Then snapped a chalk line where the edge of the EternaBond is to go. Then installed the EternaBond. Installed it from the rear to the front of the coach. This was done, so if I do have a seam, the seam will face the rear of the coach.
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