RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > iRV2.com COMMUNITY FORUMS > iRV2.com General Discussion
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-27-2018, 11:10 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 56
Re: Winterizing- Compressed Air

Hi Guys,
Does anyone on this forum, winterwise their units by blowing out their lines?
I haven't heard or read where many of your are doing this.
We do and have been doing it for many years, using only a minimal amount of antifreeze poured down each drain, upon completion. The small compressor that we use is one that you plug into the cigarette lighter. It is slower than using a slightly larger one, and definately saves space. The 'Homemade' hose attachment is simple to make.
__________________

Murphcrud is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 05-27-2018, 11:15 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
bob caldwell's Avatar


 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Vancouver Wash
Posts: 3,602
Well, a lot of folks do blow out the lines, but a lot forget the toilet valve and the outside shower..........and, not all tanks empty completely, so tank valves never get a second thought either.....I'm lucky, I follow the sun...also, they forget to run the pump to clear it ...
__________________

__________________
2010 Rockwood Sig Ultra lite 5er 8280......'99 Ram 2500, Cummins. 4x4.....Pullrite Superglide.......Use to work in calender factory.....got fired for tak'n a few days off.....
bob caldwell is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2018, 11:29 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 261
Yes, blowing out the lines is my first step. Then I run RV Antifreeze thru the entire system.Overkill? Perhaps but I have not yet had a problem in the spring.

Just finished helping a fellow RVer with his water pump. He used the air method but the water left in the pump pushed the outlet check valve into the diaphragm camber enough to cause a run but no water situation. We reset the check valve and all was good again. He is in the I just use air camp. Many people do it successfully but.

Either will work but make sure you have all the water out.


Terry
__________________
1996 Fleetwood Bounder 36S
P32 7.4 L.
Our first motor home AKA Marjorie
96Bounder1st is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2018, 11:32 AM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 52
Don't forget water filter housing.....don't ask how I know...
Fl2GaScotts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2018, 11:40 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Jim.B1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 526
I have been winterizing boats and RV's here in Ontario for over 25 years and have always used plumbing anti-freeze.
This past year I started the process on our Class A by blowing out the lines prior to adding the anti-freeze.
After several minutes of using the blower and nothing else coming out of the lines, I started the process of adding anti-freeze, and sure enough, the first thing coming out of the lines was clear water!
It says to me that air pressure alone does not totally drain the lines.
For our 32' Class A it takes a total of 4 jugs of anti-freeze @$3.00 / jug .... pretty cheap insurance in my opinion.
Personally, I would not winterize without using sufficient amounts of anti-freeze.
The benefits far out weigh the cost and time to repair a cracked line, pump or something.
In the Spring, all I do is flush the lines with either a connection to city water or from the fresh water tank.
Jim.B1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2018, 11:42 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Skip426's Avatar


 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 17,036
Blowing the lines from the city water inlet works , but you need to add a couple of steps .

1. Disconnect the fresh tank water supply from the pump , and blow back to the tank ; to make sure that there is no water in a low spot in the supply line .
2. Remove the strainer from the pump inlet and drain it, remove the outlet line from the pump to make sure there isn't any water trapped between the pump and the city water inlet , then run the pump dry ; OR , better yet , remove the pump from the RV and store in a warm area of your house.

Do not ask , why I consider these steps to be important.
__________________
99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
Skip426 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2018, 11:45 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 8,022
If you look at the various threads about winterizing the air vs antifreeze issue always comes up. The same arguments are repeated. If you don't miss any water and want to run enough air through your lines it can be made to work. The rest of us may or may not do a quick blow out to get rid of most of the water then use the pink stuff. If we do that's two chances to get it right. Incentive to properly sanitize as part of the de winterizing process as the bleach clears the antifreeze residual.
nothermark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2018, 11:55 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 448
I only use the rv anti freeze for the p traps and pour a little down the toilet just to be on the safe side.
I drain my hot water tank and leave the plug out, I put air through the system with the taps open then open the drains and do it some more. I then disconnect the water pump so it drains and drive it the 5 minutes to my storage with the drains open still and park it.

I only use one jug of anti freeze and 1/2 of that goes in the toilet, knock on wood haven't had a problem since I started doing it this way 5 or 6 years ago.
__________________
99 Rexhall Rose Air F53 Chassis
2015 Rubicon Toad
Craig1960 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2018, 12:32 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig1960 View Post
I only use the rv anti freeze for the p traps and pour a little down the toilet just to be on the safe side.
I drain my hot water tank and leave the plug out, I put air through the system with the taps open then open the drains and do it some more. I then disconnect the water pump so it drains and drive it the 5 minutes to my storage with the drains open still and park it.

I only use one jug of anti freeze and 1/2 of that goes in the toilet, knock on wood haven't had a problem since I started doing it this way 5 or 6 years ago.
EXACTLY !!!
I do each tap separately, allowing pressure buildup time, for the next one and on and on. The driving to storage area with taps and water pump draining, will definitely drain the system to a point where the P-traps may contain only small amounts of water which is soon displaced by the half a cup of antifreeze. I use less than a gallon for the who winterizingj ob
Murphcrud is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2018, 07:19 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
ThePowells's Avatar


 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Zebulon, NC
Posts: 3,848


Welcome to the forum.

Here is a link to over 850 previous threads about your question.

https://www.google.com/search?q=%22w...=13&gws_rd=ssl

An open Google search with the same search criteria will get you thousands.

Happy Reading.
__________________
Kelly and Jerry Powell with Halo (Lethal White Aussie), Nash the Rat Terrorist, and now Reid, the "Brindle we have no idea puppy"
2017 Thor Quantum W31, Ford E-450, Onan QG4000, Demco Kar Kaddy, Toytoada Prius.
ThePowells is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2018, 08:53 AM   #11
Senior Member
Commercial Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: behind the steering wheel
Posts: 1,400
if you use compressed air, be sure to use a pressure regulator in your air line. more than 50 to 60 lbs can ruin the check valve at the water heater, or the one in the city water fill line. it can also blow connections apart in some cases.

over the years, ive used this method as part of the winterizing process. in some cases, just blowing the lines is ok, but with below zero weather, its best to also use rv antifreeze, in the lines and traps, and in all those places necessary.
i have replaced dozens of water heater tanks. because the bypass was used, and the tank wasnt drained.
azpete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2018, 10:53 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
sdennislee's Avatar


 
Monaco Owners Club
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 7,446
I used compressed air to winterize for 4 years until my RV garage was finished. Used antifreeze to protect tank valves and toilet valve only. Never had an issue.
__________________
US Navy Vet, Liberty Tree Member of Oath Keepers, NRA & VFW Life Member, Alaska EMT.
2009 Safari Cheetah 40 SKQ
2009 Winnebago Chalet 231CR
sdennislee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2018, 01:44 PM   #13
Moderator Emeritus
 
Gary RVRoamer's Avatar


 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Silver Springs, FL. USA
Posts: 19,366
I used the air-blowout method successfully on my rig. Like anything else, it has to be done correctly to work right. It's not difficult, but it has to be complete, but then so does the antifreeze method. Failure by the RV owner to do some part of the plumbing hardly seems like a valid criticism of the method.


One of the common misconceptions is that you need a high pressure. Most home use compressors produce very little air volume at high pressures, so that may actually lead to a poor quality job. What is most needed is plenty of air volume, i.e. cubic ft/minute of air. That's what fills the system with air! 30 psi is plenty of pressure to move water.
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition
Home is in the Ocala Nat'l Forest near Ocala, FL
Summers in Black Mountain, NC
Gary RVRoamer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2018, 02:00 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Sweetbriar's Avatar


 
Thor Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,430
All I've ever used has been compressed air.

Last step after everything is blown out is to close up all the valves and pressurize the system to about 40 PSI. When the time comes to wake the coach back up when the weather gets warm it I still have pressure I know the system is leak free.

And Gary is correct. To be effective you need air volume not pressure.
__________________

__________________
2006 Hurricane 31D built on a 2006 Ford F53
Sweetbriar is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
air, winter



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Winterizing with compressed air. jlabit Class A Motorhome Discussions 36 01-18-2015 08:09 PM
Compressed air connections Wayne N Monaco Owner's Forum 3 09-27-2009 01:15 PM
Loss of compressed air, brakes could fail MrTransistor Freightliner Motorhome Chassis Forum 1 04-15-2009 10:05 PM
Compressed air winterizing ehackney Class A Motorhome Discussions 10 10-27-2006 12:25 AM
Compressed Air Source for Tires Rick Coleman Alpine Coach Owner's Forum 29 09-29-2006 10:00 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:10 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.