Red Line Oil

[kartvines]

My brother in law told me that I need to start using Red Line oil in my motorhome to protect the bearing, not cheap, does anyone have any personal experience with this oil and is it worth the expense?

I have never been big on additive, but if it is worth it's weight in gold as he say, then maybe I need to reconsider.

[bdpreece]

Additives are just that. Additions to the oil you already have. If you needed them the manufacturer would require that you use them.

[ChrisNiemann]

agree with bdpreece

i say you should invest your money into blinker fluid, i swear by the stuff, never let me down! NOT ONCE! blinker has always flashed with no problems!

you can buy it here:

Blinker Fluid [BF-01] - $8.99 : KaleCoAuto, Hard to find automotive items!

slong with many other AWESOME, MUCH NEEDED PRODUCTS!

lol enjoy! i love directing people to that site!

[Wanabee FTer]

Chris,
Hope you don't mind if I steal that link from you

[ChrisNiemann]

not a problem... i love the site, glad i could share with someone!

[ahrma175]

Basically what your brother-in-law is getting at is that older engines need the zinc and phosphates that the feds have mandated be taken out of today's automotive oils because they mess up the catalytic converters the newer cars have. If you just use a good quality oil and an additive like STP oil treatment or one of the break in fluids that are basically a pint of zinc and phosphates you will be fine. I would recommend a synthetic oil.
I went thru all this with my vintage superbike. Was burning up cams and got quite an education from the cam builder on today's oils. I do use Red Line in my race bikes but they only hold 2-4 quarts so the cost isn't too bad.

[Midniteoyl]

Red Line makes oil too, not just additives...

Royal Purple is rich in ZDDP too. Something like 3400 - not the stuff in stores, thats been gutted to meet the API....

Some Mobil 1 oils still have enough too: 1000 or higher - http://www.mobil.com/usa-english/mot...duct_guide.pdf

[Gary - K7GLD]

YUP - current EPA-mandated oils are considerably lower in Zinc - a recognized anti-friction compound that USED to be a major ingredient in engine lubes.

The percentage content, now reduced, has been countered by engine-maker recommendations to fewer miles between oil changes - undoubtedly great for the oil producers, but sorta fouls up all the environmentalists, what with the greater abundance of used lube that has to be produced, consumed or recycled in some manner.

EPA fully recognizes the inherent damage to older engines the reduced Zinc content causes for owners - but really don't give a damn, it's their version of "let them eat cake"...

By all means, especially if you have an older engine, look into some of the better and more popular zinc containing additives - your engine will thank you in longer life and better reliability.

Of course, if you swap vehicles every few years, there's probably no benefit - but the new owner might appreciate it...

Not far down the road, we'll also see the proposed increase of Ethanol from the current 10%, raised to 15% - as with the Zinc issue, Ethanol has a proven history of fuel system damage, and an INCREASE in harmful pollutants - but the right politicians have been bought and paid for - and THEY don't really care...

[lllkrob]

[QUOTE=Gary - K7GLD;753437]"The percentage content, now reduced, has been countered by engine-maker recommendations to fewer miles between oil changes

EPA fully recognizes the inherent damage to older engines the reduced Zinc content causes for owners - but really don't give a damn, it's their version of "let them eat cake"...

Not far down the road, we'll also see the proposed increase of Ethanol from the current 10%, raised to 15% - as with the Zinc issue, Ethanol has a proven history of fuel system damage, and an INCREASE in harmful pollutants "


Would you please sight factual examples of your statements!! I am a automotive powertrain engineer with a major automotive manufacturer and would be very interested in reading the scientific / engineering studies that support your statements.

[Gary - K7GLD]

Quote:

Would you please sight factual examples of your statements!! I am a automotive powertrain engineer with a major automotive manufacturer and would be very interested in reading the scientific / engineering studies that support your statements.

Long past experience has shown me that NO amount of documentation that counters pre-existing bias will change a critics viewpoint - I sense that you disagree with my statements, so rather than ME wasting MY time, do your own homework just as *I* did - the related info IS out there and abundant, from many reputable sources - no, probably none YOU would accept - but reliable just the same...

[Ray,IN]

Before spending money, you might wish to read this 2003 irv2.com thread: Synthetic lubricants-Aren't???
Some of the links might not work today, but there is more than adequate documentation about the synthetic vs dino oil debate.

[Midniteoyl]

Synthetics ARE better.. no, they mostly are NOT PAO oils, and you can thank Catrol for that.. Mobil 1, which use to be fully Group IV sued Castrol for claiming that thier Group III was synthetic too. Mobil lost, and the new age of cheap Group III 'Synthetics' was born...

Why I dont buy Castrol...

But they are still better than Dino for longer or extreme use. Normal day to day, no tow, no high/low temps with 3-6k mile changes and it really doesnt matter...

[milzat]

Royal Purple has my vote................................

[Shadowcatche]

I have been using Amsoil (true synthetic) for many years. Subaru #7 has 300,000 + miles. I remember a trade magazine in the steel industry 30 years ago discussing superior wear using synthetics. I switch out out all fluids to synthetics once the car is broken in, worth a couple of miles per gallon in cold weather and with the extended drain interval less expensive than conventional oil. The Amsoil microfiber oil filters are also demonstrably superior.