Refrigerator

[Sjvaught]

My fridge works well on shore power or LP when stationary but when we are driving it won't cool with LP or with gen running. Any ideas??

[alvo]

House batteries and an inverter. Mine will run for at least eight hours in hot weather.

Or keep it filled with food and the door closed and it should stay cold for quite some time (the more stuff inside, the longer it will stay cold).

Or stick a bag of ice in the bottom drawer.

[Brockx]

Originally Posted by Sjvaught

My fridge works well on shore power or LP when stationary but when we are driving it won't cool with LP or with gen running. Any ideas??

Is it a Norcold or a Dometic, located in a slide?
How old is the unit. Lot of help on here but they need more info.

[Sjvaught]

Originally Posted by Brockx

Is it a Norcold or a Dometic, located in a slide?
How old is the unit. Lot of help on here but they need more info.

It is 10 years old in my 2006 Revolution,it is not in a slide. It is a Norcold

[jacwjames]

Do you know how cool it is getting stationary. I've put a remote sensor in both the freezer and refrigerator on mine.

I have a 2002 Windsor so the frig is ~140-15 years old. It will cool to 0F in freezer and 32F in frig stationary but does fluctuate quite a bit. I've installed a second fan on a thermoswitch that will turn on when the refrigerator is working, it seems to have helped.

I have seen mods where they put cooling fans at the top of the vent that will pull more air through across the back of the unit.

Bottom line is these refrigerators are marginal at best. In really hot weather it is even worse.

[Brockx]

Adding fans to the rear of the refer has helped many to improve their operation. Below are changes I made to 2 different MH's. The first picture is a 2 door Dometic with a roof exhaust. The second is a 4 door Norcold with a slide side exhaust. Both helped me with my problems. All are computer fans 12V Hooked into the rear of the fridge so they run whenever it is turned on.

[Gary RVRoamer]

You are probably are getting much reduced airflow across the cooling unit while driving. This can happen due to the oddities of airflow over and around the coach, which varies with the stuff sticking up on the roof, your speed, the surrounding terrain, etc. You can get over-pressure at the vent end, or a partial vacuum near the inlet, and really slow or stop air movement. If you had a temp sensor reading the fridge boiler temperature, it would probably indicate overheating as well (you might consider adding an ARP monitor - see ARPRV.COM).

Short of reconfiguring the roof and sides of your RV, your best bet is to add a fan or two to the rear cooling tower area to help push air through. It is not expensive and usually is sufficient. Helps when parked, too.

[NRR]

It is possible that wasps have partially blocked the vent. Have someone else check that out. I had that happen to an AC unit once. But I caught it early.