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Old 11-06-2012, 10:03 AM   #15
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More great info . . . keep it coming, please!

As far as the Pod alternatives, I've got the Pod already and it's packed. I'm not up to switching now. Have to ride it out.

I am going to do something about sealing the windows better. I've used the reflective insulation before (inside the engine doghouse to block heat). I may try opening the lower, swing up and out, part of the windows and putting bubble wrap or foam in between the window and screen then closing the window to get a better seal.

I'm familiar with the remote thermometer and ceramic heater/light bulb suggestions BUT a little unsure of placement. My bays just don't seem that big. Here's a link to a pic of my bays. If you click on it, you can zoom in. Any specific suggestions?

I been using a small ceramic heater and have an oil-filled radiator packed away that I can get . . . my concern here is that using them will cause the RV furnace to stay off and then the bays will freeze. What I've been doing so far is only using the heaters when it's cold BUT still above freezing outside.

I've got to talk to some local propane companies about options. I looked at YouTube video about installing an Extend-A-Stay . . . looks like my propane set-up is older, not sure if it will work?

Again, all your comments are appreciated!
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Old 11-06-2012, 02:52 PM   #16
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>We did hire an independent adjuster to represent us. They charge based on the total settlement but from what I hear they make life easier and get you a bigger settlement.

I found to be a good move. Had a building with a fire in it a few years ago. Insurance company adjuster determined the damage to be 85k. Public adjuster's assessment (which the insurance company agreed to after seeing the details) was 185k. Big difference.

Camco makes a "stay-a-while" adapter which allows you to supplement your RV tank with an external propane tank. You could put a much larger stationary tank in place with that, or portable tanks you can take out to refill.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:32 AM   #17
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Some progress!

While not ideal, the first attempt at bubble wrap in the drafty windows has helped . . . I think I can improve on it but I'm going to wait until after the Nor'easter blows through.

As I look out the window this morning, it's SNOWING!! Only flurries . . . supposed to change to rain. The weekend forecast is for sunny and 55-60 degrees, I hope they're right.

Talked to the company that I've been buying my propane from (I go to them) . . . they will come out and install a 100# bottle and fill it up on site as needed. I just need to keep an eye on the gauge and call them since they don't have a history to predict my usage. That's workable!

Still unsure about ceramic heater/light bulb placement in my bays, I don't see enough room to get the heater in safely . . . if I don't get any better/conflicting advice in the next couple of days, I'll probably install 60 watt bulbs this weekend.

Thanks again for all the help. Y'all have been great.

Flood insurance claim rep. comes tomorrow . . . hope that goes well.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:46 AM   #18
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Glad you got the propane squared away. If you go with the light bulb to keep the smaller compartments warm, that'll surely work. Just remember the old fashioned standard bulbs are no longer available in stores (an energy decision by big brother, our government). There will be "specialized use" bulbs available (decorative or colored or whatever), just watch out for heater bulbs. They can easily generate enough heat to start a fire. If you have to use them use a porcelain socket.

Good luck with the ongoing effort. We all feel for you and are praying things work out without too much more grief.
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:53 AM   #19
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Some progress!

Still unsure about ceramic heater/light bulb placement in my bays, I don't see enough room to get the heater in safely . . . if I don't get any better/conflicting advice in the next couple of days, I'll probably install 60 watt bulbs this weekend.
Hi Ken .. when I click on the link to your bay photo, picasssa says the file is unavailable. You may need to open it up for public viewing.
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:54 PM   #20
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just a thought but do you have a clean out on your septic lines for the house? I have a friend that camps a lot with his son racing motocross and each time he comes home he dumps in a second tank and septic that was on the property from a previous owner and uses the clean out to do it
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:28 PM   #21
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Sorry about the pic not showing, hope I got it fixed.

Try this picture of bays.

I have city sewers, not septic AND the clean-out access is way under the house, not accessible at all. The weather looks good for the weekend, I'll drive to a dump station and empty everything. Since we currently have access to the kitchen sink and the house bathroom, I think we can go quite a while before needing to dump again.

BTW: the forecast of yesterday's snow turning to rain was completely off base . . . apparently the cold air coming down from Canada was strong enough to keep the storm from overpowering it . . . we had 50 mph winds last night and got about 6 inches of rather wet snow.

The rep from the propane company is coming out Monday to scope things out for my tank. I was wrong in the earlier post, it's a 100 gallon tank, not 100#'s.

Still making progress!
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:58 AM   #22
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Watch out for mold

On the house repair - Mold will be a big problem. It's really important to dry out things, especially wall cavities. Cold dry air is good for that, but the winter temps will inhibit mold growth and it may show up when warmer weather arrives. The best solution we found in flood repair was 1 cup clorox per gallon of water, sprayed on with a garden sprayer, then rinsed off with clean water (think stud cavity here) followed by a couple of days drying and then a cup of clorox and a cup of borax per gallon of water sprayed on and left to dry (not rinsed). The clorox kills mold, and the borax turns to boric acid if you get small amouunts of condensation that would allow the mold to come back later. Boric acid is the chemical used as fire retardant in cellulose insulation. Of course ANY electrical connections that got wet should be replaced. Modern electric cable should be OK, but if any water got in boxes or such things as baseboard heater connections - have them checked. Finally, the rule on dry-wall is at least 1 foot above the dampness you can see/feel. That stuff wicks moisture.
I wish you good luck and lots of patience, you'll need both.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:26 AM   #23
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On the house repair - Mold will be a big problem. It's really important to dry out things, especially wall cavities. Cold dry air is good for that, but the winter temps will inhibit mold growth and it may show up when warmer weather arrives. The best solution we found in flood repair was 1 cup clorox per gallon of water, sprayed on with a garden sprayer, then rinsed off with clean water (think stud cavity here) followed by a couple of days drying and then a cup of clorox and a cup of borax per gallon of water sprayed on and left to dry (not rinsed). The clorox kills mold, and the borax turns to boric acid if you get small amouunts of condensation that would allow the mold to come back later. Boric acid is the chemical used as fire retardant in cellulose insulation. Of course ANY electrical connections that got wet should be replaced. Modern electric cable should be OK, but if any water got in boxes or such things as baseboard heater connections - have them checked. Finally, the rule on dry-wall is at least 1 foot above the dampness you can see/feel. That stuff wicks moisture.
I wish you good luck and lots of patience, you'll need both.
Thanks! . . . flood insurance adjuster came out over the weekend. He measured at least 6" of water throughout the house. I'll have to check out how high the sheet-rock is damp. I know the bottom wet because I had to punch a hole for him to check for insulation in the interior walls (I didn't have any, so they won't pay to put it in). He's authorizing payment to remove/replace 4' of sheet-rock, the molding and sub-floor.

We only have a crawl space which was completely flooded. He wants it mucked-out, all the insulation removed, driers/dehumidifiers running for 3 days and then sprayed with a mold inhibitor. This all needs to be certified. I have a call into Servpro.

Also making some other progress . . .

Picked up a couple Thermo Cube switches at Home Depot along with some metal work lights to keep the bays warm. This week looks warm here, I'm making a trip to the dump station and topping off my propane tank in the next day or so then I'll put the lights in the bays.

The local rep from Osterman Propane just left . . . super nice guy! They'll send a crew out in about a week to install a 100 gallon tank. It only comes partially filled for the installer's convenience so a truck will come and fill it within a couple of days. I have to keep an eye on the gauge and call for a fill when it gets down to 30% left. After that, they will use degree days to maintain it. He originally wanted me to "lift" the RV to lessen the chance that it would be driven off with the tank connected (don't laugh, he said it happens). I don't have levelers and considering my location and possibility of having to leave, again, I convinced him that I would take measures to insure that I would remember not to drive off still connected. I'm leaning towards a large sign on the steering wheel AND actually removing the ignition key from my key ring and locking it away with another warning.

Servpro just called . . . they'll be out today or tomorrow to check out the job BUT they may require me to pay (at least half, up front). I'm a little perturbed . . . I know that they need to get paid but come on, it's a federally declared disaster area. The flood insurance adjuster requires that I use a company (like Servpro) that provides certification that this gets done, how about withholding the certification pending payment??

Arrggghh! . . . just called Servpro corporate before posting this . . . actually, they don't normally require payment up front, knowing that it's insured is good enough. Because it is a disaster area they now want money up front. [moderator edit]
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:00 AM   #24
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Have you talked to your insurance adjuster about your insurance company making up front payments when required. Surely they are not going to require you to pay as you go to all of your contractors you'll need while getting your damages repaired. Some of the home owners that I volunteered with after Katrina had some similiar issues and the insurance adjusters usually worked directly with the contractor on those I knew about. I doubt that most people who had insurance have the funds to pay as they go.
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:52 AM   #25
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If they'll pay for 4 foot of drywall, go for it. I'd insulate at the same time, Closed cell foam is the most expensive insulation, but it is impervious to water, and the best per inch. A really good applicator is a neccessity. I would consider waiting on the wall repair (do the rip out and drying/mold remediation) to get a good insulator. If you had no insulation, it won't be much colder or expensive to leave the stud space open. when you move back in. This would give you time to wait on a good contractor for that work.
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:45 AM   #26
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Arrggghh! . . . just called Servpro corporate before posting this . . . actually, they don't normally require payment [moderator edit]
I'm not surprised by that. I'm sure they get stiffed many times during disaster cleanup. They are likely hiring a lot of crews for cleanup and will have to cover payroll somehow.

Good luck with all this and I hope you are restored to "good as new" very soon.
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:35 PM   #27
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rode out 4 days without power on the nj coast in our 19ft travel trailer,
Great to have heat and lights, another benefit of owning a tt
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:23 AM   #28
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rode out 4 days without power on the nj coast in our 19ft travel trailer,
Great to have heat and lights, another benefit of owning a tt

I hear ya' on that. I don't know what I'd be doing without my motorhome?? We've had heat, hot water & power all along. Just not looking forward to gutting the house and rebuilding. At least we're safe and sound . . . we'll get through it!

I've spent most of my efforts in the last 2 weeks salvaging what we could, mitigating damage and preparing the RV for winter.

I am getting mixed messages about help from FEMA . . . shortly after the storm, local TV stations were showing FEMA info . . . I asked the insurance people & my adjuster if I should call FEMA and they said "no" because I had recourse through my flood insurance. The problem is that flood insurance does not provide temporary housing, homeowner's would (like if we had a fire or other non-flood disaster) . . . once it becomes a flood claim, they become secondary?? Now, we're hearing stories (through the grapevine) that some people near us who were hit last year and had flood insurance DID get housing assistance from FEMA. I'm going to try and find out today. I love my RV but it's going to get old here as the temps plunge and the months drag on.

Still counting my blessings!
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