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Old 08-07-2015, 04:55 PM   #15
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Craig,
Contact a local metal building contractor, you can try Mueller or someone like that to get you in contact with a builder. They will build your cover exactly like you want it. Don't go below 14' and 14' 6" is better. On a slab, wide enough for your slide out's extended.
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:36 PM   #16
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Here's mine with twelve foot legs.Click image for larger version

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Old 08-07-2015, 07:31 PM   #17
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Thinking no engineering changes required if the walls were placed on a couple of rows of cement block? The only challenge using those might be foundation requirements, but if you were planning on a poured floor, that shouldn't be that big a deal.
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Old 08-07-2015, 08:02 PM   #18
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Just don't go with the minimal height to just squeak in, with a gravel service, and then later decide to add a 4" concrete pad! The first time you try and drive in you'll be in for an expensive surprise! "Heh, I don't understand, it always fit before!"
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Old 08-07-2015, 08:05 PM   #19
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The problem with a cement block wall is that, if you don't run reinforcing bars from the top of the wall vertically down into the foundation, the joint at the slab line (and the connection at the top of the wall) can act like a hinge and move in a strong enough wind since there is no return at the ends to help brace them. This also applies to stacked ties, etc.

Disclaimer: while not a licensed professional - long story there - I did draw this stuff for 40+ years before saying "enough is enough" and retiring...
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Old 08-08-2015, 06:05 AM   #20
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I went with the mobile home screw anchors instead of the steel rods which couldn't do much in a high wind. Mine is 14x45 with 12 ft legs height is no problem and size is fine to but I wouldn't want it any smaller.
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Old 08-08-2015, 06:36 AM   #21
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Mine is in the ground via reinforcing rod pins. I thought the same about their holding power,,,,, until I went to move the carport to our new home. I welded up a peace that looked like a claw hammer that I could hammer under the heads, and chained it to my my 40 hp tractors rear 3 point, with 3,500 lbs of lift. Not one came out easy, many took 4-5 try's to shake them loose, 2-3 we had to cut the head off as we could not get them out. They are still at the old house in the ground. Not easy at all to pull them, I am confident the rest of the carport would fail before those pins failed.

Once they are in the ground awhile, they get very strong. I think there were like 10 on each side, those rails were not going anywhere.

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Old 08-08-2015, 06:54 AM   #22
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I'm building a shed roof off the back of my garage. It'll have 30A service and access to my home sewer clean-out port to use as a dump station.
It's 14' wide and slope up to the house with a 12/4 pitch. The lowest part on the outside is 12' high. Where it butts up to the house is almost 16'.

I'm also putting about 12" of gravel under it, so I can adjust the height a little as needed.
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Old 08-08-2015, 07:34 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveandcarol View Post
The problem with a cement block wall is that, if you don't run reinforcing bars from the top of the wall vertically down into the foundation, the joint at the slab line (and the connection at the top of the wall) can act like a hinge and move in a strong enough wind since there is no return at the ends to help brace them. This also applies to stacked ties, etc.

Disclaimer: while not a licensed professional - long story there - I did draw this stuff for 40+ years before saying "enough is enough" and retiring...
I guess I was thinking of J bolts set into the foundation, protruding above the height of the block, high enough to fasten the rail to the block. Much like you might do with a stick built sill plate?
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