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Old 12-28-2016, 09:21 PM   #43
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You can have a/c, microwave, washer, dryer, toaster, TV, and outlets. But most certainly not anywhere approaching at the same time. Genny breaker pops around a/c plus either dryer or microwave.
I have to admit I have no idea why nor have ever had the need to run all this stuff at the same time
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Old 12-28-2016, 09:44 PM   #44
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I wonder if some folks read the original post. Few DP's will sleep a family the size of the OP has. A bunkhouse super C is just a bit crowded.

My issue with the water pump is that there is usually a setup to add antifreeze. It is something that is done regularly by most customers so the makers deal with it. I would be asking other folks with the same unit or the dealer or the factory how it is supposed to work. In my first MH there was valve combination that lets lets the pump draw anti freeze in through a section of tubing connected to a plugged female fitting. In the current one there is a shutoff valve to the water tank and a T with a stub ending in a 1/2 IPT fitting with a plug in it. Either way I added the tubing with a 1/2 male pipe fitting on it and sucked in the antifreeze with the pump. If you do not have one of those options or something else as easy then I would think you should add a way to select the suction input so you never need to get back to the pump again.
On point again, Northermark. We struggled mightily to find a suitable rig for 7. You're right, it's extremely difficult to find DP's that do the job. Hence the Bunkhouse C's. Someone else mentioned the tour buses - believe me, we have looked! My goal prior to all of this was someday a custom Renegade or Haulmark with 6 bunks. Now, I'm not so sure.

Regarding the waterline access, I completely agree - I've searched high and low for a secondary access. It simply stretches the imagination to think they'd both install the pump in the worst conceivable spot and also not provide some sort of secondary access point. Meant to call the factory today to inquire, but no time.
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Old 12-28-2016, 09:45 PM   #45
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I feel your pain/frustration. Write to the action line a Trailer Life magazine. List all the things that were fixed. I have read about good results they have obtained. When they write letters action is taken as the companies don't want bad publicity.
X2 they can assist and the Companies listen to them, (sort of like having to get a lawyer to get anything done) I guess these companies do not realize that some of us pay attention to the problems that arise, and heed the problem companies and avoid purchasing from them.
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Old 12-28-2016, 09:49 PM   #46
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I have to admit I have no idea why nor have ever had the need to run all this stuff at the same time
Do you travel with 6 other people, do 25k miles/year, with significant time in the scorching SW?

We all use our rigs our own ways. And as I said, we're lucky to have more than a few things on anyway without shutting it all down.
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Old 12-28-2016, 09:55 PM   #47
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Also, I'm surprised the 8k gent isn't enough? My toy hauler has 5500 and I can run both 15k ac's, water pump, coffee maker, lights and tv...basically everything in my rig. This past summer we boondocked for 6 days and I ran the genny 24/7 without issue. I would surely think your much larger genny would be sufficient?
I'm not an electrician. Again, with 7 in the rig, we are frequently using the clothes dryer, which is the likely culprit. Amp draw is fairly simple to calculate, and we're heavy frequently, especially in hot TX summers.

To be fair, we've learned to adjust, as anyone would.
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Old 12-28-2016, 10:00 PM   #48
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. Instead of trying to hook directly to the pump, can antifreeze be added to the fresh water tank and then the pump be operated to disperse it through the lines?

Edited to add this: The more i think about it, the more i have a feeling that antifreeze isn't supposed to be added to the fresh water tank. If so, then nevermind the suggestion above...
Not way off... This approach is commonly used, and just as commonly criticized for putting AF in the tank. But unless I find a mysterious access valve, it's exactly what I'm doing, whether the sanitary police approve or not.
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Old 12-28-2016, 10:04 PM   #49
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Do you travel with 6 other people, do 25k miles/year, with significant time in the scorching SW?

We all use our rigs our own ways. And as I said, we're lucky to have more than a few things on anyway without shutting it all down.
I know one thing for sure if I was ever forced to do such(travel with 6 other people ) I would instruct all individuals involved to properly mange the available power supplied by the generator when gen power was all that was available. you cant tell me that's its imperative you have to run the clothes dryer while everything else is running also at the same time
heck if its as hot out as you say dry the darn clothes outdoors if its that big a deal
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Old 12-28-2016, 10:28 PM   #50
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Wowser!!! That was some dissertation. Totally get it on the customer service side and it's not isolated to the RV industry. The whole bloody country has forgotten what pride in workmanship and/or customer service are. Having owned many business' over the years I found those things to be the key to staying in business and being able to face yourself in the mirror every day.

As for owning an RV we have had several over the years, Towables and Class C until recently. In our first Class A DP and loving it!! Never owned a new one so he warranty has always ended at the driveway. But along the way they have all needed modifications, repairs, upgrades and re-engineering. Sometimes I think the designers are stuck in the 50's. Always keep a fund for these things, never go more than 50 miles without at least $500 cash and some plastic in the wallet. Helps a great deal if you can tackle most things yourself, which I can. Long list of mods in store for this beauty. So far the DP hasn't left us on the side of the road thank goodness.

Camp grounds and freedom to move about means flexibility to be sure in the popular spots especially during peak season. For us if we can't get something near where we want to be we find a Walmart for overnight and see what we can find in the morning. But not finding a hookup has never stopped us from going/doing as we please.

I hope you can find yourself in a place where you can enjoy your RV again and stop
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Old 12-28-2016, 10:30 PM   #51
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To the OP,

I can certainly understand your frustration with coach. One thing I would suggest is to keep records of your attempts at getting your unit repaired and check your states Lemon Laws, motorized RV's fall under Lemon Laws in many states. We went through that with our previous gas coach. It was a hassle, but we did get some resolution with both the coach builder and chassis manufacturer.


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Old 12-29-2016, 04:41 AM   #52
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I know one thing for sure if I was ever forced to do such(travel with 6 other people ) I would instruct all individuals involved to properly mange the available power supplied by the generator when gen power was all that was available. you cant tell me that's its imperative you have to run the clothes dryer while everything else is running also at the same time
heck if its as hot out as you say dry the darn clothes outdoors if its that big a deal
Merry Christmas to you, sir.
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:55 AM   #53
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FWIW there are folks who dump gallons of antifreeze in their fresh tank so they can pump it through the system. It's not an issue of sanitation. The issue is cost because of the quantity needed. Numbers around 5 gallons come to mind. If the HW tank is drained and bypassed most folks get by with ~2 gallons. OTOH if you do use the fresh tank you can recover much of what is dumped in by pumping it back out through a faucet into jugs. The big issue then is getting the residual out of the fresh tank. Bleach will cut it so sanitizing usually gets rid of any residual taste. Assuming you are using the pink stuff it's a common food additive and laxative. ;-)

You are probably correct about the dryer causing the problem. I forgot about that. If you consistently trip the same breaker it might help if you put it on the other leg of the system. Might just trip that one instead.
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Old 12-29-2016, 07:55 AM   #54
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FWIW there are folks who dump gallons of antifreeze in their fresh tank so they can pump it through the system. It's not an issue of sanitation. The issue is cost because of the quantity needed. Numbers around 5 gallons come to mind. If the HW tank is drained and bypassed most folks get by with ~2 gallons. OTOH if you do use the fresh tank you can recover much of what is dumped in by pumping it back out through a faucet into jugs. The big issue then is getting the residual out of the fresh tank. Bleach will cut it so sanitizing usually gets rid of any residual taste. Assuming you are using the pink stuff it's a common food additive and laxative. ;-)

You are probably correct about the dryer causing the problem. I forgot about that. If you consistently trip the same breaker it might help if you put it on the other leg of the system. Might just trip that one instead.
I edited my earlier post above to delete a part about too much load on one leg. Was figuring 50 amps so also figured there would be two legs. But then i wasn't positive this was how it worked coming from the generator. If it is, then yes, i wonder if the big draw appliances somehow all ended up on one leg?
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:23 AM   #55
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First, I'm sorry for you problems. When you spend that kind of money, you should have a reasonable expectation for better design and build.

On the generator, we have the Onan 7.5kw genset, we can run both 15k btu AC's, the electric water heater, the microwave,the ice maker, the coffee pot, the whole house vacuum cleaner, AND the Splendide clothes dryer all at the same time and the genset doesn't falter. Yes, it ramps up, but it handles the load just fine. I think you have something else going on . . . .

On the water pump, two items: first, have you considered winterizing using air pressure?
  • Drain the water heater, by using valve, or remove zinc. Turn bypass valves to bypass water heater.
  • Drain fresh water tank
  • Remove the water filter (if equipped), drain the housing and put case back in minus filter
  • Hook compressor up to street fill with adapter available at any RV parts house, pressurize to no more than maybe 20 psi. . .
  • Open all water valves one at a time, don't forget the ice maker (if equipped), the washing machine, the toilet, and the outside shower.
  • Run all faucets until only air comes out
  • Pour maybe 1 cup of RV antifreeze in each trap, sinks, shower drain and toilet.

You're done.

On the water pump, it is possible that the pump was installed during construction before the sides were put on the coach. The clamp being attached from the outside reinforces this to me. The manufacturer figures the original pump will last through the warranty period, and it's no longer their problem unfortunately. Spend the time, whatever it takes to re-position it to a more accessible location.

The grey/black tank outlets, either re-position the valves, or cut a new hole, patch the old one and move on.

The water fill, re-locate to more accessible location.

TV: re-position the receptors, or use a repeater as discussed above.

Storage bay locks, go to a locksmith as mentioned and correct the problem once and for all. Frustrating, and it gets the manufacturer and dealer off the hook, but it will put the problem behind you.

On the other hand, sell the coach and look for an older, quality built DP that suits your needs. The downside is the depreciation, and the fact that you've already learned all the problems with your current coach.

Hope you are able to work through your problems and get back to enjoying the ride! Take care,
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:47 AM   #56
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Appreciate the comments,

The electrical load comments are interesting, and worth pursuing in more detail. There may be an issue at hand that other techs haven't discovered. Thanks to those who have spent time sharing their experiences and thoughts. I'll dig into that.

I have blown out the water lines, so I'm fine for basic winterization. I'd like to include antifreeze, of course, and hence the frustration that put me over the edge.

A call to the factory led to the inevitable - "of course there's an input valve for winterizing, it's right...." Which of course it isn't anywhere to be found. So we're working through that oversight.

All items can be solved, and will need to be.

4 pages of gripes is enough for me. Live and learn, right?
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