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Old 11-14-2017, 05:46 AM   #1
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RV Fixes for Newbies and Oldies

Hello,

Over the years of reading a lot of great "fixes" and "how to" on here, I thought it might be nice to take that info and put it all in one thread. I have a few I have found very helpful and some I didn't know that I put together and will post here.

Figured when new people join the forum and are asking for help we could refer them to here. If you have a good fix, information about a good repair shop, or read something that you think might help someone, please post it here.

We can all help the Newbies and some of us Oldies need this info too.

Parts:______________________________________

Try "Colaw RV Salvage" they have parts for almost everything I have needed. It's a great resource. Don't bother with the website because in a word it "sucks," call them then email a photo of what you need. They will check and get back to you

HWH leveling systems:__________________________________

If you have questions/problems with your HWH system, contact Paul at AZPETE on the Irv2 forum. He works for HWH and can answer your questions. His email is pfmaddox@att.net and his phone number is 602-549-3638. He is a Commercial Member and has posted that his phone is always on, and if not answered, leave a message.

He has helped other on this forum and I am sure he can help you

Antifreeze:_______________________________________ __

There are 2 kinds of RV antifreeze on the market. One is a blend of ethanol, water and propylene glycol. Label usually states good to -50. The other is just propylene glycol and states good to -75. I would guess you bought the former and the alcohol has separated some component of the propylene glycol out of suspension.

I always get the pure propylene glycol stuff for 2 reasons. The most important being that it will not dry out seals and make plastic components of the plumbing system brittle like alcohol can. Second, the alcohol stuff is real hard to rinse out and makes your plumbing taste terrible for quite a while.
========

It is very important first to remember your hot water heater does not like RV antifreeze so put a bypass kit on the hot water heater before you start flushing the system. Turn the propane off.

Next one of the best ways to flush RV antifreeze into the system is to pour it into your fresh water tank open up all the faucets and then turn the fresh water pump on. This will circulate the antifreeze through your whole plumbing system. Make sure all water is drained from your holding tanks first. About a quarter gallon of antifreeze in each tank should be enough to protect them through the winter. Don't forget both holding tanks need antifreeze. So pour some down the toilet too. Leave faucet knobs open when the camper is not in use.

Winterizing your RV_________________________
Put some tire covers on to protect them from the elements. Some bungie cords should keep them from blowing away in the wind. Last. Don't forget the obvious. Go to your local RV parts store and get a air conditioner cover for your roof top air conditioner to protect it and keep the winter slime from corroding AC parts.

Electronic Boards :________________________
Dinosaur Electronics: Dinosaur Electronics Company Information
Can't figure out water system. Water heater won’t light. Pump doesn’t stay on. running off fresh water tank. Tried with 12v batt switch off and on. Tried 110 switch off and on. I am lost!!

Is your propane leak detector turned on??? Should be near the floor in the kitchen area. If it isn't on, the refrigerator, furnace, and water heater will not light.

Squeaky Door Latch: ____________________________
A while back someone posted an idea on how to stop the entry door from constantly squeaking. His suggestion was to place tape such as black electrical tape around door striker (post that door latches to). Well after a year of trying to silence the door I tried this method and WOW! It worked.

Black tank cleaning: ____________________________
I mix 1 gallon of water with 1 cup of Calgon bath salts and cup of Dawn dish soap, mix well. Pour down the toilet after you have emptied your tanks. Fill with another 5 gallons of water and while driving to the next CG (campground), the movement of the RV going down the road is swishing the mixture around cleaning and loosening the stuff left in your tank.

You can also use this for the grey tank if you get an odor from it.

I do this every trip. Water is necessary to keep the contents of the black tank from getting hard and plugging the tank up. Use plenty of water! Before winterizing the rig, we use this mixture, go for a drive and then completely fill the tank before emptying. The full tank will take everything out with it.

Sway from other vehicles passing my RV: _____________________

Bernoulli's principle applies. As a truck approaches, air that is trapped between the truck's trailer and your TT is compressed. That pushes your TT to the right. As the truck's trailer passes, that compressed air must accelerate, reducing its pressure and causing the TT to pull to the left. It happens to motorhomes, too.

More subtle is the difference between semi-trailers. Full-box trailers generate the most push, and flatbeds the least, if they have small or no loads on them. The "wall" of a full-box trailer (that faces your TT) will build up more pressure on approach and a higher suction on passing, whereas the pressure from a flatbed trailer never really builds up because it "leaks" to the driver's side of the semi.

After HD added anti sway bars and replacing the shocks on my class C, this was really reduced.

Hope you find this info as informative as I did. Lynne
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Old 11-14-2017, 05:54 AM   #2
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Hello Again,

Forgot this one on:

Rusted Lug Nuts
________________

I saw this on You tube and it looked like an interesting way to get a rusty lug nut off.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...e&action=click
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Old 11-14-2017, 07:57 AM   #3
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Great idea Lynne! I'll be adding to this when my brain cells start working. I did want to add a phone number since I looked it up for another RVM.

Colaw RV Salvage Toll Free at 877-548-2125

And to those who have posted fixes on other threads you can just copy the url of that page and paste the link to it here. It would be nice to have a centralized fix-it thread.
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:06 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beamisl View Post
Hello Again,

Forgot this one on:

Rusted Lug Nuts
________________

I saw this on You tube and it looked like an interesting way to get a rusty lug nut off.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...e&action=click
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The link doesn't work for me. What was the "method used"?
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:31 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beamisl View Post
Hello Again,

Forgot this one on:

Rusted Lug Nuts
________________

I saw this on You tube and it looked like an interesting way to get a rusty lug nut off.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...e&action=click
__________________

When I click on the link I get the Yahoo news page.
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:50 AM   #6
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Hello,

Sorry about the link, I will refind it and try again.

What they did was took a candle, a lighter, held the candle over the rusted lug nut, lit the lighter under it and just like welding where the torch draws the melted rod into the holes you are trying to fill, the lighter draws the melted wax into the lug nut.

The guy had shown where he was just doing everything he could to get the lug nut off and after doing this it came right off. Now, I have not tried this but if one of you does, please come back here and give us the results.

Well, that's two of you who have said Colaw Salvage and thanks for the phone number.
I'll get on the video right away.

Lynne
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:54 AM   #7
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Going to try this again Removing rusted lug nuts with a candle and a lighter on YouTube

OK, this one worked.
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Old 11-14-2017, 09:03 AM   #8
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Another good tip on how to reduce sway when pulling a trailer.

Didn't realize from your initial post you were rolling without the WDH . You need BOTH! Especially with your set up. I feel you are OK with a 7500 lb tow rating and pulling 4K. You probably need to get on the scales to make sure you are right at some point but you have enough of a safety margin there. But yes, please get the WDH AND sway bar, or buy a WDH that has the sway reduction built in. You won't believe the difference it will make!!
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Old 11-16-2017, 09:42 AM   #9
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Heat and noise in your driver's area: __________

I went with Dynamax also, and can vouch for being able to talk at normal tone. Uphill can still be noisy with the V10, but not as loud as before the install. I would venture to say for us it reduced noise by at least 50%, probably more. Heat to doghouse cover now, doesn't exist. Overall, very satisfied with product.
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Old 11-16-2017, 09:49 AM   #10
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Heat and Noise in the Driver's area: _______________

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alumi...ded,32193.html We used this and can’t say enough good things about it. Our “life with Jane” thread has some verbiage and photos
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Old 11-16-2017, 07:11 PM   #11
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Painting your RV: ________________________________


1) a "HOW-TO" of lessons learned and how to do this. Lot of photos

New paint for the ole Southwind – 1999 Southwind 35S

2) a day by day detailed log with a lot of photos of the progress.

Painting 1999 Southwind – 1999 Southwind 35S

If you are thinking about painting your RV or doing anything to your graphics, I would definitely go to this site and check it out. It is lengthy but has some great instructions in it.

Lynne
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Old 11-16-2017, 07:30 PM   #12
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BAD ADVICE

"Next one of the best ways to flush RV antifreeze into the system is to pour it into your fresh water tank open up all the faucets and then turn the fresh water pump on. This will circulate the antifreeze through your whole plumbing system. Make sure all water is drained from your holding tanks first. About a quarter gallon of antifreeze in each tank should be enough to protect them through the winter. Don't forget both holding tanks need antifreeze. So pour some down the toilet too. Leave faucet knobs open when the camper is not in use."
One of the *worst* ways to put antifreeze into the system is to put it into the fresh tank. The tank often contains several gallons of water that will dilute the antifreeze but be harmless over the winter. That will require many extra gallons of antifreeze. That is why most RV's have an alternate way to pump antifreeze through the system including the pump.
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Old 11-18-2017, 06:57 PM   #13
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These are probably more of prevention than fix -

To prevent rodents from taking up residence in my MH's engine compartment I took an empty, dry, 2 liter soda bottle, poked about 50 holes in it. Then I put about 25 mothballs in it and laid it on top of my chassis battery with no cap on the bottle.

It was parked about 40’ from my daughter's Prius all summer. Rats got into her engine and did $6,000 damage. She found a dead one in the glove compartment. Our home was spared.

I tried laying similar bottles on top of the tires, but the fumes were making me sick.

I keep a garden hose on my gray tank while parked and I once had a rodent get into the sewer bay by climbing the hose. Now I put the black ring from this product

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-39322-W...70_&dpSrc=srch

into the bay outlet first, then the garden hose. To fill the gap between the ring and the hose I stuff copper or stainless steel pot scrubbers around the hose. You can also use steel wool, but it will rust.

https://www.amazon.com/Chore-Boy-Cop...r+pot+scrubber
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Old 11-21-2017, 04:52 PM   #14
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Here are the five states that don't have a sales tax:
Alaska.
Delaware.
Montana.
New Hampshire.
Oregon.

Look at buying Tires and other large items that wear out as you travel through these states.

As Delaware and Montana are two states we travel through - we always price large purchases in those states, especially Tires and Batteries.
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