RV Newbie

[BCam]

Another heating option is an Olympian Wave, catalytic propane heater. We had a small one in our 25' TT and it worked well. There are several video reviews and other info available online:

https://www.google.com/search?q=olym...w=1164&bih=543

[153stars]

I'm stick by that you can install a good 20amp outlet and use it with 15 amp and less devices. When was the last time you plugged in a true 120v 20amp male cord. one with non parallel prongs.Don't use a 20 amp heater\fireplace, AC or air compressor on the curcuit..You could probably make a new run of wire to it or make sure it's alone or first in line on a daisy chain.
We metal skirted and insulated my friends TT floor with comfort therm batts and slide side walls with foam board . Ran and insulated pvc pipe to sewer. Made our own heated insulated hose. He had to remove a small service panel in bathroom to let heat in one area to keep a short section of pipes from freezing. The winter he stayed in his. Not sure if l.P place was ripping him off filling 100 lb. tank, but he figured it was cheaper to use elect.oil filled radiators heat for the rest of that year.

[Miss Breezy]

Originally Posted by Dav L

Make sure that extension cord is heavy duty. And the plug where it is getting it's power from.

Insulation around the perimeter looks good. Sure, you could put some additional under the slide. But don't put any hard supports under the slide in case the RV jacks sink. Foam is fine as it will easily crush if that happens and not damage the slide.

Is your water line under the foam? There are heated water hoses available for purchase. Use that to fill the onboard tank and use onboard. Refill when needed but close off the valves when not filling. Flush the hose (compressed air works great) inbetween fills.

Water lines are under the foam as well as under the underbelly that is insulated, heated and covered, to my knowledge the only exposed lines under the camper, is the overflow which is pex and the drain for the fresh water on the front side. On the rear side is the the shut offs for the grey and black water and drain as well as the low point drains. I am going to make a removable panel with foam and plywood to drain my black and grey water and have all the other stuff wrapped in foam elbows and then insulation. i am sure there was an easier way lol, but i am only a month into being and RVer lol....

only filling water into fresh water tank and then draining water hose. I have put foam board on the inside of the pass through storage doors and am putting regular insulation between the metal studs inside the storage ...thank you again...you have been extremely helpful

[Miss Breezy]

Originally Posted by FatChance

It is proper planning and preparation, not luck! [emoji3]

BTW, be diligent to keep snow shoveled off the roof. One foot of wet snow on the roof of a 40' RV weighs about 8000lb! Plus, if you do not remove the snow, it will start to thaw/freeze on the poorly insulated roof and that can destroy your roof.

I will be aware of the roof, great advice. I am so worried, i am not preparing enough so all this wonderful advice is paramount

[DRM901]

Algonac State Park is on the water; Metamora is in the middle of the state. It should be relatively warm. We live near Algonac and it is a good 10 degrees cooler on the river vs 2 miles inland. I would try to block the northerners. They can be downright biting.

[Dav L]

Originally Posted by DRM901

Algonac State Park is on the water; Metamora is in the middle of the state. It should be relatively warm. We live near Algonac and it is a good 10 degrees cooler on the river vs 2 miles inland. I would try to block the northerners. They can be downright biting.

I was at what was called the "Riverview Campground" that has since been sold and renamed. It was next to the Harson island Ferry. So, right on the river. And yes, the wind was biting. Ripped right through the belly of the 3 season RV and when the propane heater turned off (not often), the RV immediately felt like there were no walls.

The Campground was run by a very nice family. Years later I was in the area and stopped to say hello and learned they had retired and sold the place and moved. I was their only winter camper that year. Enjoyed helping them put boats in the water in the spring. Other than the cold, it was a good adventure.

[NRR]

A few thoughts & questions

I would NEVER use a catalytic heater to heat a camper again. If you lose air flow into the camper you can die from carbon monoxide poisoning. My whole family almost did. The vent window was open but an ice storm during the night covered the vent. Woke up with a real bad headache. Tried to light a cigarette and the lighter would not work. It did when I stepped outside. That was panic time for me. The wife & one year old were still inside.

What model of the Breeze do you have?

Do you know where the fresh water tank, gray and black tanks are located? If the tanks are all under the floor. You may want to put one of those oil heaters mentioned before under the trailer in that area. Just run 20A cord to the 20A outlet on the pedestal.

You may also want to put heat tape around your dump valves if exposed.

[Miss Breezy]

Originally Posted by NRR

A few thoughts & questions

I would NEVER use a catalytic heater to heat a camper again. If you lose air flow into the camper you can die from carbon monoxide poisoning. My whole family almost did. The vent window was open but an ice storm during the night covered the vent. Woke up with a real bad headache. Tried to light a cigarette and the lighter would not work. It did when I stepped outside. That was panic time for me. The wife & one year old were still inside.

What model of the Breeze do you have?

Do you know where the fresh water tank, gray and black tanks are located? If the tanks are all under the floor. You may want to put one of those oil heaters mentioned before under the trailer in that area. Just run 20A cord to the 20A outlet on the pedestal.

You may also want to put heat tape around your dump valves if exposed.

My tanks are under the floor and suppose to have heaters...Also, duct work down into the belly. The Breeze is a 2020 Tracer extended season.....I don't mean to sound stupid, but when you say Catalytic heater are you referring to the heater that comes in the camper? The camper does have Carbon Monoxide detectors built in, not sure how accurate they are....Not even sure if Tracer Breeze are decent campers lol, so new at all this...

[twogypsies]

Originally Posted by Miss Breezy

I don't mean to sound stupid, but when you say Catalytic heater are you referring to the heater that comes in the camper? The camper does have Carbon Monoxide detectors built in, not sure how accurate they are....Not even sure if Tracer Breeze are decent campers lol, so new at all this...

This is one brand of catalytic heaters made especially for RVs. There are other brands.

We used one for our 16 years of full-timing and absolutely loved the continuous quiet, warm heat rather than the RV furnace going off and on. However, we never used it while sleeping but then, we like a cold room for sleeping. Typically, boondockers use them all the time since they don't require electric.

In your case in frigid cold temps. you'll need to run your furnace in order for heat to go down in your basement. A catalytic heater would be good as a supplemental heater but not for your only one.

https://www.campingworld.com/olympia...ter-19332.html

[Unicorn Driver]

I use two of the oil filled heaters and really like them. Normally will only use one on high or two of them on low.

[LarryFlew]

Just a quick addition: unless someone is really ripping you off on cost of propane the LP heat is about 1/3 the cost of electric heat in most places so the space heaters are costly to operate compared to your furnace.

[DestinationU]

If your looking for electric this is what we use.


F. N. Cuthbeert, Inc (800) 472-3292

Marley Qmark CWH1201DSF Premium Commercial Wall Heater - 120 Volts - 900/1800 Watts - 5 Year Warranty

Part Number CWH1201DSF
$163.9


https://www.electricheaterwarehouse....ty_p_1452.html

[Mark_K5LXP]

Rather than deal with questionable installed outlets and managing trailer circuit loads, just add a true 20A circuit at a handy location of your choice inside to plug your heater in. Inexpensive and straightforward to do. If the power source/pedestal supports multiple connections you are adding net power capacity to the trailer.

https://youtu.be/w1ZO5RxKoq8

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

[vhcambrian]

From experience you're going to use the dehumidifier more in the winter If you are living in it full time.

Originally Posted by DRM901

Home Depot has 20A outlets, but you should NEVER just replace a 15A outlet with a 20A one before verifying the wires are sized correctly. Good thing is you shouldn't need the dehumidifier during the winter.