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Old 07-13-2018, 11:06 AM   #29
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A different story with a Deisel
I always changed my own on the big Class A diesel too. 28 quarts, but an $8 plastic concrete mixing tray from Lowes handles that easily, and big enough to catch a large stream of oil. And if you add a Fumoto valve, you can do it in stages if you like. Plenty of room under there, and the jacks can raise it a bit if needed (take suitable precautions, of course). Takes me about an hour, of which ner half is pouring the used oil back into containers to take to the recycling center.



Cost on my oil and filter runs about $100, and Rv dealers charge 3x-4x that. Speedco is about 1.6x and truck shops about 2x.


I do the diesel genset at the same time.
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Old 07-13-2018, 11:26 AM   #30
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Our local Valvoline does my 28' Class C E350 for less than 50 bucks.

It will fit in their bay but they are more comfortable doing it outside so I go on a nice day that's not too hot or cold.

I usually tip enough for them to get some pizza and pop for the crew because they are a nice bunch of guys.
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Old 07-13-2018, 12:38 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Terryshirley View Post
Word of caution. Have some kind of funnel available because the drain plug is exactly over the axle
Which means oil splatters everywhere... Been there done that.
Fumoto valve mentioned above
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Old 07-13-2018, 02:56 PM   #32
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I change myself pretty easy, I use a 10 gallon galvanized pan to collect the 34 quarts of oil.
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Old 07-19-2018, 01:40 PM   #33
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I asked the only "non-rv" dealer why they charge $124 an hour to work on an RV and the reply was "you have to have a lift big enough and a ceiling high enough to be able to stand under it. Our mechanics don't lay on the floor". He acted like that was the only answer needed. My thoughts??? It's the American way, like raising petrol prices over a holiday, charging twice for "semi-synthetic" blend oil when it only takes one drop in a quart to call it that, or diesel fuel prices higher than gas when it costs less to manufacture. When you're the only game in town, pay up or do it yourself.
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Old 07-19-2018, 03:31 PM   #34
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I asked the only "non-rv" dealer why they charge $124 an hour to work on an RV and the reply was "you have to have a lift big enough and a ceiling high enough to be able to stand under it. Our mechanics don't lay on the floor". He acted like that was the only answer needed. My thoughts??? It's the American way, like raising petrol prices over a holiday, charging twice for "semi-synthetic" blend oil when it only takes one drop in a quart to call it that, or diesel fuel prices higher than gas when it costs less to manufacture. When you're the only game in town, pay up or do it yourself.
Any idea how much a lift to raise an RV costs or raising the roof on a building to accommodate that lift?

He's not too far off the mark.

I charge more to clean carpets in boats because I had to buy a special piece of equipment to get to the boats that are not accessible by a truck mounted unit. That equipment costs me a few thousand bucks, I have to maintain it and carry extra tools because they don't float. I also have the knowledge on how to remove those margarita and red wine stains on their million dollar boat.

I own the equipment the boat owner does not (neither do my competitors) so I can charge a premium.

Capitalism, ain't it grande?
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Old 07-19-2018, 08:36 PM   #35
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The original question was for a Class C motorhome. A Ford or Chevy van, in other words. All the quick lubes placed around me can accommodate one. No special lifts or tools needed.
Just drive the van over the pit, $37.
Just drive the van, with a pooper in the back, over the pit, $100.
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Old 07-20-2018, 03:56 PM   #36
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The original question was for a Class C motorhome. A Ford or Chevy van, in other words. All the quick lubes placed around me can accommodate one. No special lifts or tools needed.
Just drive the van over the pit, $37.
Just drive the van, with a pooper in the back, over the pit, $100.
My quick change station says, "If it will come through the door and it's a ford or chevy motor we'll have you out of here in a few minutes" Yes, they use a pit and I go there with my Axis which of course is a van with a bathroom. I do pay for the extra quart of oil but that's out of their bulk pump, no big deal.
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Old 07-20-2018, 09:08 PM   #37
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I change my Duramax oil which holds 2, 1/2 gallons. I take the used oil back to Walmart and carry one of these oil pans bungied up inside the dually rear fender. Cost is about $50 for Rotella Syn 5W40 every 5k miles.
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Old 07-20-2018, 09:18 PM   #38
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If you own an RV you must have lots of $$$$$$ so they charge you. It's really that simple.

I've changed or supervised (teacher) oil changes on literally thousands of vehicles. Yes there can always be issues but really are not much more difficult than others. With RV's they are easy to get under. Easy to reach the filter and drain plug.

I suppose if it were up north and winter you do need a large warm place. That's costly and that I'll give you for charging a bit more.
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Old 07-21-2018, 07:00 AM   #39
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got a 2001 ford e450 v10-wondering what thread I have on oil pan plug-want to change to Fumoto valve but not sure what thread I have-Thanks Rich
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Old 07-21-2018, 07:13 AM   #40
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It's just like having a nice in-ground swimming pool. When someone shows up to do any other type of work for you and they see the pool, $$$ can be seen in their eyes and their prices skyrocket!
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Old 07-21-2018, 07:23 AM   #41
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I have 2 of these (Cummins diesel holds 10 gal.) and then transfer to the old jugs. $10 each . If you can't take the drain pans with you, donate to another camper .... they'll be gone in minutes.


https://www.autozone.com/shop-and-ga...180721131722:s
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Old 07-21-2018, 09:08 AM   #42
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got a 2001 ford e450 v10-wondering what thread I have on oil pan plug-want to change to Fumoto valve but not sure what thread I have-Thanks Rich
Should be able to find the right valve at Buy Fumoto® Valve Online | Replace Oil Drain Plug. I used one with the nipple that takes a 3/8" tube.
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